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[Closed] lefty headset help needed

 dale
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[#426277]

anyone replaced lefty headset bearings?
trying to find a thread or some help


 
Posted : 26/03/2009 11:11 pm
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I take it you have taken the Lefty off the bike?

What exactly is the problem?

Have you tried MTBR.COM ?


 
Posted : 26/03/2009 11:37 pm
 dale
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headset getting crunchy
looking at bearing clean or swop
just wanted to hear how others have tackled this
seperating steerer,pressing bearings back in any hidden suprises etc
have searched
remember reading a thread somewhere (wish i had saved it now!)


 
Posted : 26/03/2009 11:46 pm
 dale
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sucess!!
thread here;
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=162854


 
Posted : 26/03/2009 11:54 pm
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does anyone know where to pick up compatible bearings for these cheaply?


 
Posted : 27/03/2009 12:04 am
 dale
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which bearings?
the headsets can be found but are from turbine engines cost loads
cdale ones are cheep compared and last well
ime in the calderdale grit triangle
it eats bearings brake pads chains alloy etc


 
Posted : 27/03/2009 12:16 am
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Cheap bearings can't be done in my experience (though I'd love to be proved wrong). They are some freak bearing size that none of the bearing suppliers I've tried can get hold of. I usually get them from Chelmer Cycles or Thumbprint Tuning.

Swapping them is OK as long as you work out how to get the steerer out. Top tip - remove the plastic "plug" in the top before you knock it, they are quite easily damaged. Ahem.

There there are two designs I'm aware of.
- The newer design (about 2007 onwards), you undo the bolts and drift the steerer out from the middle and take the fork off sideways.
- The old one with bolt on clamp at the top and a bonded clamp at the bottom needs the lefty leg top cap removed. You usually need to remove rebound adjusters and lockout levers first - they either just pull off or have small grub screws for a very small hex key in the side. Most older top caps unscrew with a big spanner (like 32mm or more) or a pin spanner. Some newer ones use a HT2 bottom bracket tool. You can basically lift the top clamp off and the steerer/ lower clamp will just drop out.

The bearings should come out easy enough without the steerer in there. They are an interference fit, there's no preload wedge like on an Aheadset, so usually requires a bit of hammer action to refit them. At risk of stating the obvious, put a smear of grease on metal to metal contacts so they don't sieze, and use a soft faced hammer, or a bit of wood when you hit stuff so you don't dent it. The bottom bearing will seat itself as you knock the steerer back in but the top one can be a bit tricky - I have a bit of fat aluminium tube I use that fits over it, might need a bit of cunning as there's not many things big enough to go round the steerer to get pressure on both sides of the bearing so it goes in square.

Hope this helps!


 
Posted : 27/03/2009 12:26 am
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just buy the bearing from CRC, you can't get them from your normal bearing places (as they a really weird size.. aw mentioned above).


 
Posted : 27/03/2009 12:31 am
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emove the plastic "plug" in the top before you knock it, they are quite easily damaged
yup - already broke that!!

only places i've found that list the bearings are CRC and Edinburgh Bike, but neither have them in stock.


 
Posted : 27/03/2009 12:36 am
 dale
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thanks Stu_N was helpfull
the obvious needs stating will try to be patient and find a tube/socket first
hopeing a re grease will keep it going untill summer
no play as yet


 
Posted : 27/03/2009 12:42 am
 dale
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bugger steerer came apart fine bottom bearing disintegrated on cleaning
no weekend ride!


 
Posted : 28/03/2009 3:09 am
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I've got a full headset in great condition, 6 months use that you can have for £30 posted?


 
Posted : 28/03/2009 10:44 am
 dale
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thanks for the offer swisstony
bought the bearings from Chevin £21
Paul from workshop most helpfull


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 6:36 am