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[Closed] INCOMING !! New frame day... Bird Aether 7

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[#11880823]

As you'll have seen, the Whyte G160 was getting on my nerves with issues of shock problems. So to resolve the issue, i bought a Bird Aether 7 frame... Yup, that'll fix the Bird issues without discussion 😀

Couple of things it'll need before i can get out and riding it.
30.9 > 31.6 Seatpost shim.
160mm > 150mm fork travel reduction.
Invisiframe kit fitting.

Frame should be with me early next week, unless i collect it myself before then that is... but will take either me or Mrs Weeksy a few hours to fit the Invisiframe kit, then a few hours for me to build it up. However i can't see any reason it won't be rolling by next weekend.

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177344120_459a9ceb5f_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177344120_459a9ceb5f_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kYngq5 ]Plum-Side-3k-scaled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:34 pm
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Ha, I knew it :D.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:38 pm
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Nice. I ordered an Aether 9 the other week, really looking forward to it, will definitely make a change from a rigid Krampus. What shock did you go for? Have gone with a Deluxe Ultimate so far, not sure about splashing out for the Super Deluxe or whether to just save the difference or spend it on other upgrades / new riding kit


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:40 pm
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I've already got a Monarch Deluxe RT which is OK as far as shocks go, but not life changingly good of course, but it'll do to get me back out and on the trails... I'll think about the future upgrades, in the future 🙂

Now, who knows how to drop my Yari to 140/150 from 160 and what bits i need ?


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:42 pm
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Now, who knows how to drop my Yari to 140/150 from 160 and what bits i need ?

I'm sure those nice people at TF Tuned would help you out with a new air spring. 😀


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:45 pm
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I'm sure they would... but i got the impression it's a fairly simple at home kind of job... but may be worth asking them 🙂


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:46 pm
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Now that is drastic measures to sort a shock problem!


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:47 pm
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I’m sure they would… but i got the impression it’s a fairly simple at home kind of job… but may be worth asking them 🙂

Yep they list the air shafts and C1 upgrade kits on their website, and if it's anything like my Pikes it's a simple job to do at home - you just need to know exactly what version you're starting with.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:48 pm
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Nice bike! Absolutely the correct way of solving the issue with a dodgy shock, different frame!

Interested to know the weight of this when its built (or even the frame weight), i can see one of these in my future at some point.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:48 pm
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Good lad, you know it makes sense 🙂


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:52 pm
 Yak
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Sorted! Proper way out of a problem there.
Fork - plug the serial number from the crown into rockshox trailhead and then you'll see what you have so you can order the right air shaft. I've done it on plenty of 32mm rockshox forks and it's a simple home job. Hopefully it'll be the same for you on a yari.

If you use a bottle, get the angled bottle bracket thingy so the bottle cage sits parallel with the shock. You will get a decent sized bottle in then.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 3:56 pm
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get the angled bottle bracket thingy so the bottle cage sits parallel with the shock. You will get a decent sized bottle in then.

Comes with the frame


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:00 pm
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Fork internals ordered.

From Ruth at TFTuned 🙂


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:15 pm
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@weeksy, when the invisiframe kit arrives check the NDS chainstay piece first. For mine the cutout for the hose guide was in the wrong place. Invisiframe sent an replacement part with it moved.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:18 pm
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Interesting stuff, will do matey... I think Mrs Weeksy will be doing it as she does all the phone screen covers, tablet screen covers, so it's just the same thing isn't it 😀


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:21 pm
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As long as she uses Invisiframe and not green electrical tape you'll be fine. 😉


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:36 pm
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Hhahaahahaha. I wonder if i can buy pinky purple electrical tape.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:45 pm
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@weeksy - is your shock a Monarch (non metric I think) or a Deluxe RT (metric)? I haven’t fully got my head round the actual difference in metric cannon-metric but the Aether is metric. Mine has the cheapie shock at the moment which is 210x55 deluxe rt I think. I’m just over 80kg and felt it needed a bit more mid range resistance so stuck a Megneg on it as I don’t have adjustable compression damping.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:47 pm
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6 months until you decide it’s not enduro enough after the 160 and you change for an Aeris 😉


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:55 pm
 igm
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I got one of those in raw / lacquered.

Silver Pikes and a Deluxe Ultimate RCT 210x55 ‘cos that’s what they had in a couple of months ago.

It looks lovely

I’m around 85kg and the setup was easy and the ride lovely.

It feels way more capable than my old 2011 Orange Alpine.

Enjoy


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 4:58 pm
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is your shock a Monarch (non metric I think) or a Deluxe RT

It's a Deluxe RT3. 210*52.5 (I did check with Ben if it'd be OK)
I don't know how good or bad they are, i bought it as a spare for my lads Specialized Enduro so it stands me nothing. If i need something better, sure, if not, then i'll run it.

I just want something up and working before worrying about details on it. I've got plenty of days out and it's my only proper MTB (The Ebike i don't ride doesn't count, but i could use it and am at the Peaks on Sat) and i was getting sick of the issues with shocks.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 5:05 pm
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Its literally 10 mins on top of a lowers service.
Just remove the circlip .. pull out old airshaft and push in the new one.

Most important thing is decent circlip pliers (decent but £££) .. got mine at Halfords for about £10 or less ??

Pull off lowers using 5mm hex wrench to release bolts after removing reboud know (2.5mm hex I think) (or better a use long straight extension with 5mm bit as its easier to hit with a mallet than a allen key) = give a good clean with isopropyl and inspect seals...

Now remove airshaft ... Push down on plastic lock part that stops circlip rotating.. rotate a bit and get the pliers in and pull out (noting sharp side of circlip and might need a good yank so put end screw back in ).. Assume its a Deb spring, they are much easier than the old as the plastic retainer is better designed.

Reassemble stick in new 35mm foam rings and add oil as in service guide amounts ... (I use the Fox Gold in the lowers) .. stick in new compression washers and a retainer and do bolts back up... all done

You need anything in a rush you're welcome to borrow pliers and scrounge some oil/foam rings/compression washers


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 5:18 pm
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You need anything in a rush you’re welcome to borrow pliers and scrounge some oil/foam rings/compression washers

Thanks mate, but i can drop it into my LBS for £20 so i know it's done right 😀


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 5:21 pm
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Fair shout if your lbs will do a lowers service and change an airshaft for £20!


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 5:26 pm
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Fair shout if your lbs will do a lowers service and change an airshaft for £20!

TFTuned only wanted £40 but obviously i'd have 2 sets of postage on that and the delay while it's away. LBS guy will knock it out while i wait he said. Worst case i may need to shoot to supermarket and back while he does it.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 5:35 pm
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I'm sure more and more of the Zwift racers are buying Bird bikes! Get joining the Bird owners group on FB 🙂


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 6:15 pm
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I don't do FB mate sorry.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 6:16 pm
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LBS guy will knock it out while i wait he said. Worst case i may need to shoot to supermarket and back while he does it.

It literally just pulls out once you take the circlip out... then the new one pushes in.
It's always worth a good clean in the lowers anyway, new oil and foam rings and quick check for any damage to seals.

Definitely not worth doing as a one off for £20... you'd need tools (circlip pliers) and consumables and most of the consumables are items that the postage is 90% of the cost as a one off.

If you plan doing your own lowers services though its worth doing when you actually do it its way less complicated than it sounds... its loads of techy sounding stuff but once you do it dead easy

For me it's the time/courier/having to be in as much as anything TBH so its easier to just do it myself now I have everything.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 6:25 pm
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I hear you Steve, but at the moment i'd rather give it to a grown adult as if i for example knackered the circlip, then i'd need to source a new one and i simply want to get out riding it asap.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 7:34 pm
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Can’t help with any of the suspension chat but I can say that it’s a great colour!


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 7:53 pm
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Fair enough you want it done quickly and have an lbs who can oblige.

You’d need to order stuff to do the lowers service yourself anyway. You need circlip pliers (for an air shaft change - you don’t need it just for the lowers), a 24mm socket (as it’s an older Yari I’m assuming it’s this rather than a cassette style tool), grease, lower leg lube (preferably with a syringe), new foam rings really.

TF Tubed do a little pack with the lube / syringe / grease and they sell foam rings seperately.

I’ve been running the Aether 7 with 140mm Yaris / Lyriks (Yari to start but charger damper / debonair shaft / skf seals) for a year and a few months. Out of curiosity I’ve just fitted a 150mm C1 airshaft in there. Will be interesting to see what it’s like with a tiny bit higher front end / slacker HA / touch more travel.


 
Posted : 13/05/2021 8:56 pm
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SO i do believe i have everything needed on the way and ordered.

Frame
Invisikit
seatpost shim
Fork internals

There's a couple of minor things i need to think about, but i'll do that in advance of building.
1. Fork steerer length. The G-160 comes with a massive spacer on top of the frame, plus 3 spacers, so the steerer may need a trim and a new SFN
2. Gear outer, not sure at the quality of the gear outer i've got in the spares box, so may need to collect 2m when i go to the LBS for fork internals.

Unless i'm missing something, i think we're all good.


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 8:15 am
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Welcome to the Flock 😉

Spring shaft change is a piece of piss, but do yourself a favour and get a 2021+ spec Airshaft because a) they're betterer b) you can basically throw them in from the other side of the room, well relative to trying to fit the 2018+ spec ones with the wave washer.

I extended my 160mm 2018+ Lyriks to 170mm with the new Air Spring a few weeks ago, it's perfect now.


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 10:29 am
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Arrives... errrrm about now !

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177930081_dd076f90ff_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177930081_dd076f90ff_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kYqgAR ]2021-05-14_09-26-51[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177249357_d480cff708_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177249357_d480cff708_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kYmMfe ]2021-05-14_09-26-43[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177929781_d504b1ba7b_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177929781_d504b1ba7b_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kYqgvF ]2021-05-14_09-26-25[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 10:35 am
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https://www.tftuned.com/2021-c1-debonair-air-spring-upgrade-kits-lyrikyari-pikerevelation-2018/p3851

Pjay, o bought this as per what TFTuned told me to order.


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 10:36 am
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Looks nice, how long have you got to get it ready before the Peak trip


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 10:38 am
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Looks nice, how long have you got to get it ready before the Peak trip

Peaks is tomorrow but i'm on the wifes Liv Embolden E+ as everyone else is taking a motorised version and would have been daft not to take one with a motor.

If i were to accept running the forks at 160mm (which i'm not Ben, honest, promise) then i'd have it ready to go by the afternoon today, assuming the wife gets time to fit the invisiframe kit that is.. or i could try it and do a rubbish job 🙂

Odds are, she'll get it done tomorrow/sunday while i'm out riding and watching MotoGP... unless she tells me no and i'll do it Sunday.


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 10:40 am
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Probably best then. Had a bit of rain up here over the last week but trails were still good yesterday. Forecast is for showers but that's not unusual.
Enjoy the weekend


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 10:51 am
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[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177286522_a103b2f933_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51177286522_a103b2f933_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kYmYi1 ]2021-05-14_09-59-49[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 11:01 am
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Pjay, o bought this as per what TFTuned told me to order.

That's the one. They're great.


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 11:36 am
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Fork air spring kit arrived, so i've dropped the fork at the LBS for a lower service kit and fitting the air spring.

Also picked up 2m of gear outer so i've got nice new stuff on

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51179404235_6829a604b5_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51179404235_6829a604b5_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2kYxPPi ]2021-05-14_02-33-58[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 3:38 pm
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Re the fork steerer length, try it out for a while before cutting it. A lot of owners run a fair few spacers under their stem as Bird bikes tend to be a little lower on the stack height; which is better than being too high and not being able to do anything about it! I'm 5,8" and I run 25mm of spacers on a headset cup stack height of 16mm and 30mm rise bars on a ML Aeris 120LT.


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 5:28 pm
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Interesting stuff. The headtube is 10mm longer than on the Whyte, but that'll still leave me 20-30mm depending on headset stack height. So plenty of room to play with.


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 5:49 pm
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Checked shock, it had 1 volume spacer in, so added another

[img] [/img]
[url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/51178014832/ ]2021-05-14_06-23-30[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url] - [url= https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dariogf.flickr2BBcode_lite ]Flickr2BBcode LITE[/url]


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 7:28 pm
 igm
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Silver Bird (can’t get images to display)

https://flic.kr/p/2kV7sGW


 
Posted : 14/05/2021 7:30 pm
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