Inappropriate/overkill components on your bikes ?

Most of it seeing as nowadays I am really a bridlepath bimbler.

my daughter has saint cranks on her bike! shes about 6 stone.

i`ve got guide rs fitted to my rigid singlespeed! (it was a HC HT and been down BPW blacks in a previous incarnation though)

i`ve got guide rs fitted to my rigid singlespeed

So inappropriate rather than overkill as even on a SS brakes that work would be handy?

Every part on every bike I’ve ever owned.

I’d give a list, but it‘d make some gentle souls angry.

All the parts on my full sus are over kill for the sort of rider I am. Most of the parts on my everyday mtb are also arguably over kill as is my gravel bike. But Im an upgrade addict,and when I find a 'bargain' I buy it, £100 eewings etc....

Dunno about overkill, but my bikes rider overweight!!

For that reason, I need big brakes....

35mm Raceface bar and stem on my Orbea Oiz XC bike - I got the bike second hand and these had been fitted -

I don't think it needs them and there has been occasions where I've got wrist pain - not sure if they actually TOO stiff

I once had a Ringle bottle cage on an old rigid Peugeot. The bottle cage was probably worth more than the bike.

Carbon cranks on my shopping bike.

I don’t think it needs them and there has been occasions where I’ve got wrist pain – not sure if they actually TOO stiff

Thought it was a well known fact that Race Face bars are the stiffest/ most uncomfortable bars known to man (even in 31.8, 35 must be horrific)

Anything beyond a rigid, SS, cantilever braked bike is overkill

XTR cranks on my singlespeed pub bike? I even had to, err, modify them with a file to make them compatible with my eccentric bottom bracket.

I'm pretty sure most of my bike kit would fall into that category, sadly.

In more generic terms - those massively oversized jockey wheels - unless you are a pro rider, they do nothing - they don't even look good as you don't notice it whilst you are riding (and other riders won't see it as they'll be watching what else is going on. I don't use them, so not really fitting into this thread, but I seem to be really annoyed by them so they are getting mentioned.

CalamityJames

Thought it was a well known fact that Race Face bars are the stiffest/ most uncomfortable bars known to man (even in 31.8, 35 must be horrific)

Every broken carbon handlebar I have seen in person has been Raceface.

Most inappropriate thing on my bike is probably me - a guy with messed up balance and legs who turns into a sentient plate of jelly in the heat. Not many rides I don't spend time foribly meeting with the ground, usually on the flat or uphill.

My daughter has lovely USE carbon bars and seatpost on her ridgeback city bike. They were selling off unfashionably short bars and short posts at 80% off in their outlet store a couple of years ago

Looks great and fits perfectly for her but they wouldn't be on there at full price!

DickBarton

In more generic terms – those massively oversized jockey wheels – unless you are a pro rider, they do nothing – they don’t even look good as you don’t notice it whilst you are riding (and other riders won’t see it as they’ll be watching what else is going on. I don’t use them, so not really fitting into this thread, but I seem to be really annoyed by them so they are getting mentioned.

You'll love the price of this one then - free lube, mind.

https://r2-bike.com/CERAMICSPEED-OSPW-System-3D-printed-Titanium-Coated-Dura-Ace-9200-Ultegra-8100

Supergravity tyres AND inserts. I never got a puncture with my old trail+ casing tyres so definitely overkill. And the 220mm front rotor with Hope v4 brakes. I don't need that amount of power...

Tbh, the whole bike is overkill, but that's what I love about it!! 🤣

And as for inappropriate...
https://flic.kr/p/2nVkBRR
Yes, that's a bell on a 170mm 17kg enduro gnarpoon. 😁

My bargain basement commuter bike has quite fancy Hope Tech 3 levers with some rather natty orange direct mount XC callipers, an Easton carbon handlebar and some One Up aluminium pedals .

There's every chance that those are either 1. worth more than the rest of the bike, or 2 double it's value

I have a set of those lovely USE carbon bars on my Brompton.

4 pot RS4s on my gravel bike.

4 pot RS4s on my gravel bike.

Isn’t that what they are designed for?

Hope brakes and wheels, zee 10 speed, carbon bars, dropper post and DMR stem on my pub/shopping bike.
(Old battered Kona Steely with rigid fork).

All very old hand me downs. I think the back wheel is 25 years old.

Mudguards, pump and tools on my Turbo bike which hasn't left the house in over a year.

Put the bike on the trainer as was. Don't ride on the road much any more. Certainly not for fun. Purely to get places now

Isn’t that what they are designed for?

does that make them any less overkill when teeny tiny 2 pots are more than adequate for the tires contact patch and grip.....

Can also add my Carbon 29er mtb rims i fitted as well ....

Boardman hybrid commuter/shopping bike with AXS gears, Force CX1 carbon cranks, Syntace HiFlex seat post and Hunt Wheels?

Complete overkill but it’s mainly spares box bits that were meant to be sold but couldn’t be bothered to!

All of it if it's the same stuff as the pro riders, but your still not happy with the brakes and suspension performance.😁

Chris King hubs with carbon rims and a Chris King bb on a frame that cost 150 quid.
Another parts bin special.

Hope hubs on my commuter. Probably half the value of the bike in the pair.

My cheap Voodoo Hoodoo mucking about bike has some Rethal carbon bars that retail at over £100, RaceFace Turbine cranks at £199 and some Fox 32's in Factory spec (bar the Kashima) that spec up at nearly £700. Those 3 parts alone are, at RRP, worth more than 3x what I paid for the bike new! I rarely do anything more extreme on that bike than potter along a towpath or the occasional blue trail. It did once did a day at Windhill but that was before I upgraded everything so doesn't really count.

Yes, that’s a bell on a 170mm 17kg enduro gnarpoon

Completely sensible if you ride where people walk (E.g. mountains)

Cheap inbred for #1 child, xtr shifter & Chris king hubs.

My 'dad bike' which has a kids ride shotgun seat permanently attached has 64° head angle, 160mm 36mm stanchioned forks, enduro casing tyres, tyre inserts, 200mm rotors, 4 pot brakes, and an XT drivetrain.

I know someone who has a set of Hope mono 6's on a gravel bike

Di2 on my Zwift bike

Single wall motorcross handlebars.........I need a really high stack height, honest!

I only have one bike, a do it all HT that I built. No word of a lie I can't think of 1 part that is either overkill or incongruous on it. Or maybe it's my mistaken perception of what I really need for my riding. I genuinely tried to build it with the best cost to performance to resilience in mind and it was £1,300 all told.

Actually I am lying as I could probably make do with a 180mm front rotor rather than 200mm despite my 13 stones and a bit (that's the genuinely incongruous bit).

I have an 18 year old Mk1 Cotic Soul. It's still way beyond what I ride/need.

I bought a whyte cx/gravel type thing off of ebay for £150 and it now has a set of Niner carbon forks on it.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who's fallen into the trap of expensive wheels on a valueless bike (20+ year old Raleigh Pioneer, which has Hope Pro3s front and rear; mind you everything else has been replaced other than the seatpost and it's also got a pair of Easton EA70 risers on, and 8sp XT triggers bought off the classifieds on here)

I reckon I've got a few.
'inappropriate' in terms of clashing:

Recently printed bits in fluro green on a mostly silver with blue bits bike. Not sure if I'm vain enough to change them when I next buy a more subdued colour of filament.

Also:

16 bladed spokes and a semi aero rim on the front, 36 round spokes on square profile rim out back Aero Gainz/aero losses 🙂 (and SPD SL pedals on a single speed rotter)...

Eldests bike is a spares hodgepodge, XTR brake calipers, XT crank, with an X3 mech and grip shifter on a ~15 year old Kona frame...

29" / 650b wheels on a mountain bike have to be the winner here. Road bikes always used 700c. The 26" MTB wheel size was an accident, but the reason the wheel size never aligned before is that for off road use, when you need to accelerate/ decelerate and change direction rapidly, slightly smaller 26" wheels make more sense. 29" wheels make sense on a roadie / gravel bike, but for genuine MTB momentum is more often a problem than a benefit.

Mrs_oab's new do it all hybrid has a pair of DH flat pedals on because of the colour match.

I have a atw bottle opener on my Whippet, think it's been used once

29″ / 650b wheels on a mountain bike have to be the winner here.

I wonder if Spooky is still on the go. Remember reading the article about their 650b bike before 650b was anything other than uber-niche.