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how to dent a steel...
 

[Closed] how to dent a steel chain stay about 4mm safely?

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[#5186708]

I know it sounds a bit odd but i need to put a crease/slight dent in my chain stay to enable me to fit my Hammerschmidt. Is this a feasible idea or would you send it off to Argos Cycles? Its just ive heard poor reports of their turn arounds and I'm an impatient bugger!


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:01 pm
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Hammer -->

4 Hammerschmidt.

I like that 8)


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:04 pm
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G-clamp and a bit of wood is the controlled way to do it. Or just **** it with a big hammer.


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:06 pm
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You can do it all this on your own just hammer it.


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:06 pm
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Hammer is tricky to get a good ding with - g-clamp or vice with a shaped bit of wood, or mole grips can work.


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:09 pm
 iolo
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Cut it out with an angle grinder. It will be much neater.


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:15 pm
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suitable sized flat faced punch and good hammer(3lb) should do slow and steady and not to much violence 😀


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:15 pm
 nuke
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What frame just out of curiosity?

Before and after pics for our viewing pleasure please 😀


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:22 pm
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iolo,if you cut it with ana angle grinder it will need welding 🙄 Piece of wood shaped to fit the inside of the chainstay to support and another suitable piece above and give it a crack 😆


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:43 pm
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Just get a mate to hold it and drive into it


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:46 pm
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I think the angle grinder was a joke.

I'd probably use a small ball-peen hammer and tap it. Trying to squeeze it slowly will probably deform the tube in a different way to what you want.

You do it at your own risk though!


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:49 pm
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In all honesty I wouldn't recommend it hammer would cause undue stress to the weld and clamp could encourage a crack .


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:53 pm
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vice and support, use something cylindrical to make the dent - running the same way as the tube.


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 6:55 pm
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I would not do this.


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:12 pm
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Buy a new frame?


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:14 pm
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Wasn't this a common fix for chainsuck


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:16 pm
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It's a 2010 Cotic bfe which I like a lot but it can't take the H/S 🙁


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:28 pm
 sv
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Wasn't this a common fix for chainsuck

...on On-Ones of a certain vintage (used a hammer on my 853 Inbred chainstay)


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:29 pm
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Hope you don't pull the bb with it...


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:37 pm
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Can you put a spacer behind the H/S?


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:38 pm
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No as it has to be over the axle and as tight as you can get to the iscg mounts.


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:44 pm
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I indented the chain stay on my old 456 with a g-clamp to deal with the "chain suck issue", it was fine.


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:46 pm
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Is either the g clamp or a new frame then!


 
Posted : 24/05/2013 7:48 pm
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Unless you can put spacers on the ISCG mount also..btw I know f-all about the H/S


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 9:39 am
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Another 456 whacker here. I did it with a ball peen hammer and about 4 layers if insulation tape to protect the paint. A ball peen hammer is also the correct tool for the job.


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 10:14 am
 ndg
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If you're willing to risk writing of the frame............I'd probably give it a go if it was me

Drill a wooden block and cut it in half to make a support for the back of the chainstay. Then either a vice and piece large round bar, of a ball pein hammer. Tape as suggested above to protect paint as far as possible. You may need to cold set the rear triangle afterwards (bend it back into alignment!).

I'd personally go with the vice option - more control over the process. It worked well when I needed to relieve an exhaust pipe to clear a modified steering rack/column before now. The only issue was using a bar that was a little small on the diameter, so it was a tighter crease that I'd hoped for.


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 12:16 pm
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When I was about 10 years old I inadvertently flattened both chainstays on my 1988 Peugeot MTB by doing up the kickstand clamp too tight with a big spanner...


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 12:35 pm
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@ Chief ...obviously quality stays.. 😆


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 2:32 pm
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Page 22/23 of the PDF - Ranger 24! 🙂


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 3:38 pm
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it looks like i will be fitting all my stuff to a Kona Steely frame i forgot i had as the H\S seems to be a lot closer fit . Medium Bfe For sale then ! Sorry to disappoint guys but no hammers out or g clamps now !!


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 6:10 pm
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You are wrong you can put a "max" of 3mm spacers (Truativ) so sufficient thread is engaged on mounts.

However I have approx 4.5mm on my Blood so to clear the swing arm, with no issues, I also moved up a BB size and utilsed a couple of spacers to ensure the HS is flush with the BB face.

I have had no issues with either chain line or the mounts since fitment.

However as you have found out not all frames are suitable with a HS. Bummer. As far as HT frames compatible, I know a Transition Trans AM easily (I have one). I hope it helps..............


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 9:33 pm
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Erm, I could be interested in the Bfe frame - how much please?


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 9:50 pm
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Gentlemen please, there some mischievous comments here!

OP, have to say it seems like a risky, hassling mod for something that's alright but not that great ..


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 10:12 pm
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Spanishfly talks sense.

Having seen his set up I can confirm it works just fine.


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 10:19 pm
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My mate did it by going OTB at CYB a year ago, his 456 gas ridden fine ever since


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 10:25 pm
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i know it seems a bit extreme but i really love the H/S , enough to use another frame if need be to be honest.


 
Posted : 25/05/2013 11:24 pm