[Closed] Hope pro2 evo- !0mm qr question.

forgive me for OT-ing your thread question, but do you know if we (as we both own new Evo's) should be taking them apart and greasing the pawls up before use?

Anyone support/advocate doing this?

Cheers

from my experience leave them if their new. strip down and lightly grease after 6 months or so. unless you have any issues.

No you must ONLY use the Evo kit. The old pro 2 you needed to change the spindle in the hub by punching the old one out and fitting the bearings back on the new one.

The Evo has got rid of all that hastle and all you do is change the end caps on the new one similar to how the fronts are done.

I bought my adaptors from eighteen bikes over their website as the crc one wasn't very discriptive at the time.

Hth

On the Evo you need Hope parts hub456 and hub459 if you want to do a 10mm conversion. Your current axle is the correct size it just the 2 replacement end caps you need. They are shown as "Hope Pro 2 Evo Conversion Kit Rear, 10mm Thru" on this page.
http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/176/hopepro2evokitr/hope-pro-2-evo-conversion-kit-rear.html
I use these with a Superstar 10mm QR to give a kind of mini maxle.
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Thanks *winking smiley*

A question I was going to ask, nice one. Got to put in one of those DT Swiss RWS jobbies.

Regarding adding the new adaptors, servicing,changing bearings etc are there any instructions/vids? All i can find relate to the old Pro 2, or is it basically the same?

scamper,
i'm sure it is the same, someone will correct me if i'm wrong 😀

matt,
are those superstar 10mm QRs any good ?

Sorry but what is the difference between the superstar 10mm 'bolt through' and a 9mm QR skewer. If you have dropouts, surely they work exactly the same, only the 10mm is 1mm stiffer...

Std QRs are 5mm IIRC.

Front Pro 2 and Pro 2 Evo hubs use the same conversion kits

Rear pro 2 and pro 2 evo hubs require different kits as the internal axle on the older hubs needs changed, the evo hubs use the same axle so only the end caps need changed.

A QR frame has rear dropouts which are 10mm wide so you can use the 10mm hub with he RWS type skewer or you can use the standard QR hub which uses the QR skewer which is approx 5mm thick. The QR hub has the small bits at the side sticking out which slot into the dropouts and hold the wheel in place, these have an outer diameter of 10mm where as the 10mm hub doesn't have these, when you put the wheel into the frame it is the 10mm axle holding it in place.

Sorry but what is the difference between the superstar 10mm 'bolt through' and a 9mm QR skewer. If you have dropouts, surely they work exactly the same, only the 10mm is 1mm stiffer...

Normal QR skewers are not 9mm diameter though. Maybe 4mm?

The 10mm SS QR has made the rear end of my bike a fair bit stiffer.

Agreed It's stiffened up mine too

Thinking of getting a dt Swiss 10 mm thru axle instead of the superstar one, does anybody know which id need? Heard there is a new version that doesn't snap the lever or something similar? Any links to it?

The Superstar one works really well in my Orange 5. As said above a standard QR skewer is 4mm. The Superstar and DT Swiss are a 10mm bar which runs straight through the standard frame drop outs, the wheel end caps and the hub. My standard QR skewer was the source of an annoying squeak.

this is going to be a bit of a noob question, but why has no one mentioned the 12mm Maxle? is it more of a pain to fit?

this is going to be a bit of a noob question, but why has no one mentioned the 12mm Maxle? is it more of a pain to fit?

More of a pain? Yes, when you have 10mm dropouts.

This mod is a good way of stiffening up a standard 135/10mm back end, 142/12mm maxle wont fit.

are those superstar 10mm QRs any good ?

I used a 9mm one on the front of my bike as I had convertible hubs and my normal Hope QR kept coming lose, which the SS ones didn't.

However, when I put a DT Swiss RWS 9mm in there instead it showed that my SID forks had a casting error which sat the wheel to the side.

This implies to me that the RWS skever was pulling the fork stantions together much more effectively than the SS one, i.e. you could get much higher torque, which is what you are after in the first place.

I know this is an old thread but I have a Hope Hoop rear wheel and it does not say on the hub if it is a Pro 2 or Pro 2 Evo. Is there any easy way I can tell which one it is?

Bump 🙂

presuming you are sure it is a Pro 2 hub, pull the end caps off and have a look at the center tube.