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Home mechanic (2 qu...
 

Home mechanic (2 questions lol) sram DUB and semi integrated HS

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[#12752073]

Fed up with service of my local bike shop. Going my own way for my current build.

1) Do I need a headset press for a 1 1/8 - 1 1/2 semi integrated headset?
I've cut the steer tube and tried to follow instructions for the headset, but the bottom part of the bottom cup / bearing is still visible (between top of fork and bottom of head tube). It just looks a bit wrong.
Or whack it in with a rubber mallet?

2) BSA 68mm DUB bottom bracket and cranks. I've followed videos and installation instructions online , and looked at the correct mm spacers for my frame. After tightening up the preload adjuster, there is a small gap of about 1 or 2mm between the crank and the adjuster . Is this okay?

Thanks. I'd upload a photo if you didn't need a degree in brain science to do it. Still not sure why it's not possible to just select one from my phone gallery.

Cheers 🍻


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:11 pm
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I’ve cut the steer tube and tried to follow instructions for the headset, but the bottom part of the bottom cup / bearing is still visible (between top of fork and bottom of head tube).

Pictures would be useful to help diagnose this. Is the lower cup actually flush with the head-tube? Have you replaced the crown race on the fork with the one from the new headset?

here is a small gap of about 1 or 2mm between the crank and the adjuster . Is this okay?

As long as the preload has taken up any lateral movement, that sounds fine.


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:22 pm
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How do I create a url for an image 🤔

I don't think the lower Cup is fully flush with the head tube, no.
I agree a photo would be a lot better .


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:37 pm
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And it's a completely new build .


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:39 pm
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Semi integrated is normally pressed cups into the head tube that the bearing then sits in. You usually see just a thin slither of the cup between the frame and the crown race - it should be tight against the head tube.

On dub if you have the right spacers in when you tighten the big bolt up to 40 or 50nm (whatever the setting is) you tent to have a little bit of side to side play. All the preload adjuster does it just take this up. As long as you don’t have any play it should be fine.


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:49 pm
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photo


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:54 pm
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photo


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:55 pm
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https://ibb.co/6bt5kRt


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:56 pm
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Yes managed to upload a photo!


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:57 pm
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https://ibb.co/D5YWCgw


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:57 pm
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So the plastic ring that sits on top of the fork looks too visible to me? Maybe I'm wrong.


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 4:59 pm
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The cup looks like it’s pressed home against the frame ok. I assume the crown race is the one that came with the headset? Stupid question but you have the bearing in the right way up? If the answer to both is yes then I assume that’s just how that headset is.


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 5:16 pm
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Hi. They are all parts that came with the frameset. Headset was included with the frameset .

Pretty sure the bearing is the right way up as was following videos. The side of the bearing with the angled lip is pressed against the crown race.


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 5:20 pm
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Normally the angled edge on the bearing matches the angle on the cup pressed into the frame and it’s a flat edge onto the crown race……what headset is it?


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 5:22 pm
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Looks like the bottom bearing is in the wrong way round. The angled side goes into the frame.


 
Posted : 11/03/2023 5:53 pm