[Closed] Filing down a dropout to get the wheel in.

I did it on a Sanderson the other day. It was mostly the built up layers of paint on the inside of the dropout. A quick file down and a thin coating of paint/nail varnish sorted it.

Is it just paint buildup? I'd not really want to take metal off a new frame but paint, I'd not worry about.

Is it brand new out of the box?
What does it measure?

If it's under sized I would be tempted to return it and ask for a new one - thats the thing you get buying new.

My missus had one that got squashed in transit flying home from Oz one year. It measured 130mm rather than 135. We stretched it out a bit and left the wheel in, it's still not 135mm but it's closer just have to pull the stays out a bit to fit the wheel.

Had this with my Mmmbop but it was just too much paint in the drop outs.

is the wheel okay in another frame?

It's definitely not paint as this is the 'raw' finish 456. I have also been told that it's very common to have to pull the stays apart on these frames.

Yeah, the wheel was previously in a different 456 frame.

Ah, so it's the width of the frame that's the issue rather than the dropout itself? I'd send that back, it's either been squashed in transit or welded together wrongly- you could coldset it back out and it'll probably be fine... But it's new, so it should be right.

Ahh, not the problem I had. The slots in my drop outs were were tight, not the frame spacing.

No, to clarify it is that the dropout slot itself won't allow the axle in.

Kunstler - Member
No, to clarify it is that the dropout slot itself won't allow the axle in.

I had this happen on a new steel frame, Pro2 axle wouldn't fit into the drive side drop out slot. Stripped back the paint, still didn't fit. Took some measurements, emailed the company and a replacement frame was sent out.

5mm is nothing. Someone is/was selling a 150mm spaced 456.

Found it here http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=170997586857

20mm axle is the front wheel... 😉

Old frame-bend it/file it.
New frame-Ring them for advice.

I've emailed Planet X but LBS are confident they can sort it (without filing) and I have two days off from tomorrow and am very tempted not to have to wait for a replacement frame.

When you file it file only the bottom face of the slot then the wheel remains straight.

Buggered if I was going to send mine back for a 30second go with a bastard file.

Then I had to file the brake adaptor to fit round the weld. Now its all working grand.

I did it with my 456 frame - no worries if you do it a bit at a time and keep checking.

Is it the painted version? If so, I think these are a bit more prone to this as they have paint AND laqcuer on them.

If you feel more comfortable using your LBS then do that.

P.S. You might also need to run a pick around the bb threads if they are a bit tight - again lacquer can get into these and make them worryingly tight (to the point where you think you've cross-threaded the cup).

Oops just read above post properly (something I have had a pop at other people for) 😳

Send the fram back - you shouldn't have to be bending the actual metal back into shape (unless you've bent it yourself first, of course).

Good luck.

I actually has the same thing with a 456 frame - the dropout on the first one was partially closed - not just tight. I drove up to them on a Saturday morning and left 20 minutes later with a new frame. Still needed filing a bit, but that was just paint and lacquer.

I'd sort it yourself and get a discount for your trouble

Did this with my Soul, which if I remember correctly was quite a common problem, but it took a couple of seconds and the wheels pop in and out much easier now.

If it's just been plonked down on it's dropouts at some stage they might well have just closed in a fraction at the open end.

I'd maybe just have a very careful feel at gently seeing if the dropout can be persuaded to just open up a tiny before a bit before I got the files out - (mixed metaphors aside 😉 ).

Use something wide / long enough to spread the load along the whole dropout length, and just put a gentle bit of pressure on to see if it opens up a bit. Steel is quite forgiving, but I wouldn't advocate doing this if it involves anything more than a tiny bit of easing out, as you'll start to introduce stressors into the material beyond that.

That said if the entire length of the dropout is too tight tho', I'd send it back, as that'll have been from a proper knock/poor construction.

(I'm assuming this is a 'normal' 9mm QR/10mm bolted axle tho').