[Closed] Carbon roadie clincher wheels - what rim depth?

I'm in a similar position where I've decided on some theoretical wheels depending on somehow getting some money from somewhere.

While reading up on whether I wanted light weight for climbing or aero, everything I found seemed to point towards aero, unless it was actually for a hillclimb bike.

So if I ever do get a nice set of wheels it'll probably be the 58mm deep firecrests.

do you have other wheelsets as well?
would not go for 55 mm unless you have other wheels to use when it's windy

Deep rims look cooler. 55mm all day long

I demo'd some 50mm magic cosmic carbon clinchers recently over my aksiums. I generally ride 30 - 60 miles plus an occasional 100 over twisty lanes with shortish climbs - south downs type stuff.

For the best part of 2 grand wallet lightening, they felt a little bit stiffer and helped climbing although I can't say I noticed any weight difference either picking up the bike or accelerating. They were quite comfy and seemed to reduce vibration - but that could have equally been the better tyres on them. I did notice getting blown around quite a bit in crosswinds. My usual circuits weren't noticeably quicker.

I really can't justify blowing £2k on a pair of wheels however sexy they look. I think I'll go for something a bit lighter maybe but the aero really doesn't make a difference for my fast blasts or mates racing on the roads I use.

38's

I've got 38s for all round use, they're great wheels (Chinese carbon built with Tune hubs @1320g), but part of me wishes I'd gone deeper. They do sound cooler, and look cool. Very tempted to just get another pair. That said, my previous experience of 50s (10 years ago) was That whilst they went faster, they felt slower, and as I don't race much I want something which feels better. Things have massively improved since mind.

If you read the blurb and aero testing, Aero beats weight in virtually every scenario. Having said that I wouldn't spend large wedge on heavy wheels so stuck with 42s for day to day riding.
On another bike I have 50's and can't feel much difference in aero or weight ( they're 150grams more )

As above. Deeper looks better so go for those 🙂

[url= http://www.cyclist.co.uk/in-depth/1467/aero-rims-vs-lightweight-rims ]Blurb[/url]

I went for 24mm rims when I needed new wheels recently, as my road rides are mainly about going up hills - and I'm not bothered about getting between them quickly. But my riding is probably more like 1,000m climbing for each 40 or 50km.

Based on the climbing/distance ratio you specify, I'd have considered the 38s.

PS. I think low profile rims look cooler, but obviously in a minority now.

While reading up on whether I wanted light weight for climbing or aero, everything I found seemed to point towards aero, unless it was actually for a hillclimb bike.

38s* for me as I'm stupid enough to think about racing hill climbs. I also weight naff-all so pretty much get blown away when a breeze picks up

*want, don't own 🙁

38mm

I went 58's and initially regretted it, the side wind and draft off passing lorries / busses made my first week or so of riding very interesting. It is like riding a bike, pardon the pun and I've now gotten used to their profile and the way they respond to winds. That and the fact they do look better.

Depends. Thing is deeper wheels are more stable the faster you ride. I have a set of 404 that I ride a lot. The only time they feel a bit of a liability is when pootling around on easy z1 rides. Faster rides they are fine (probably about 20mph and above). Much the same with 808's. Can feel pretty scary rolling to the start line on a windy day but once up to race speed they are fine (but they need to be above about 25mph.) I guess it's all about the cross wind relative to the headwind you're generating.

Decent all rounder, i'd probably go 38mm.

I've just picked up a pair of the Reynolds 32/46 carbon clinchers in the superstar sale for £270!! I'm going to get them tensioned before I ride them, but at that price........

Ben (*waves*) I'm a tart and have both sub 1300g lightweights (Light Bicycle), and some 45mm semi deep sections (USE 4.5s).

I've read the Cyclist article, and as a geek had previously read the material it's based on. In essence, over an entire ride aero trumps weight full stop. For an individual climb aero trumps weight until you hit gradients of around 5-6% for us non-pro riders, at which point our speeds are sufficiently low for the aero benefit to drop to the point where weight wins.

I'd go for the 38 out of your list as 55's will be a bit of a handful in cross winds.

Two sets of 38's here good for everything 🙂

45mm 🙂

Thanks all, my head has been saying the 38mm (the heart strings saying the 55's!) so I imagine the 38's are what I'll end up going for.

Crashtestmonkey - *waves back* - this posh wheel thread has developed following our local forum discussion and my initial searching for a new set of Winter wheels... my wants vs needs have become blurred and escalated somewhat! 😀

Listen to your heart 🙂

Last year i got a new bike and got 58mm race wheels and shallow climbing wheels (about 1100 grams). I like the deep sections so much i rarely use the other wheels. Its free speed and make a nice noise, handling wise they are not too bad in the wind, much better than i was expecting before i got them

I race 55's and ride 45's for a lot of my training and winter. To be honest, 33 is all you really need. And it makes inner tube selection a lot easier come puncture time. There are no 80 mm latex inner tubes, so I gave up on my 55's, which was a shame. I still run them in my other wheels.

I don't do valve extenders!

38's, good for everything.

I'd suggest the key question is "whats your average speed?"

There's a point below which the aero benefits are negligible

I went for 38mm over 50mm as they seemed the best compromise of aero/weight. Conveniently, I also think anything over 45-50mm looks ridiculous.

I went for the CERO RC45's and have been very impressed

I'd suggest the key question is "whats your average speed?"

There's a point below which the aero benefits are negligible

This was the question I was getting at. The slower you go the less aero benefit there is... but also the less stable they become (at least on the front.)

This guy has some thoughts on carbon clinchers

High temperatures from braking having an adverse effect on resins in the carbon fibre.

Tubular rims have some benefits over clincher rims, so he says.

Old news.

Things have improved significantly with better resins and pads.

Still, if I was a big guy regularly tackling long Alpine like descents, I'd be properly doing my research before getting some carbon rims.

And I wouldn't use latex tubes.

And I wouldn't use latex tubes.

Use latex tubes on all my carbon wheels 🙂

I think the theory/argument is carbon rims get so hot from braking (as they don't dissipate the heat) that they melt latex tubes. Dunno if it's internet urban legend or not.

And ninfan, Ben is definitely quick enough for it to matter.

carbon rims get so hot from braking (as they don't dissipate the heat) that they melt latex tubes

Not in Surrey they don't 😉

Valve stem length is a bigger pain in my experience. Vittoria Corsa G+ ride almost as well with decent butyl tubes though.

Oh, and my 45's are original p-SLR aeros with alloy braking surface, the 55's are all carbon. Braking is much nicer on the older alloy, but one needs to be on trend these days (not really).

Light wheels feel nice.

Deep section may be faster buy unless you are racing, what on earth is the point?

You'll save a few seconds on your rides. So what?

go bike or go home, 808's on my "fast bike" (disclaimer, its pan flat round here, so why not, i wouldn't use this bike on a hilly ride)

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5 or 6% percent, I wish. Weight trumps aero in my back yard. Sub 38's all day long.

55mm all day long. Aerodynamics matter far more than 100g. Hell, just swap your chainset to a SRAM Red/put a carbon seatpost on there/get some lighter skewers etc. Losing 100g is easy. I'm not sure which deep wheels are most aerodynamic though, some (Zipp/FFWD etc) are obviously gonna be better than some cheapo unbranded jobbies off ebay.

On custom 60's here with DT 240 disk hubs, used on that faithful wet and very windy 3 Peaks race. Making the turn on the top of Inglebrough was like hoisting an asymmetric on a RS800 Never turned a pedal across the summit plateau the bike just flew. I have seemed to adjust to being pushed around in cross winds very quickly I just don't notice anymore. Go big they look really cool on the bike the performance thing is nothing to worry about unless your a contender....I am not.

Enve smart system here with dt 240s, so I'd say 38f, 50r.

I've got 50mm on mine. Feel great on climbs, and done a couple of crits, really nice in fast corners mid bunch where you want something that'll help you keep your line (not saying this is just down to the rim depth).

I talked to the wheel builder (stayer cycles) about what riding I did (pretty much everything) and she recommended me a couple of options. Don't have the money for different wheels for different jobs, if I want to shave a second off a climb I'll do the appropriate work on the turbo!

This guy has some thoughts on carbon clinchers

Those videos are a bit meh, to be honest give anyone Internet space and enough viewers and it becomes de facto, rubbish.

http://road.cc/content/feature/213876-why-riders-you-need-go-aero-and-wheel-weight-doesnt-matter-%E2%80%94-and-how-wind