That's a great level of pedantry, hats off to you! My 150mm dropper KS Lev came today and I can confirm that it fits perfectly in my medium trigger 2 carbon. It fits with the collar flush to the seatpost clamp on the frame and at full extension is in the same position as I was running the 100mm dropper at full extension. So I've got the full 50mm benefit of thr additional drop.Result!
Oh and the CrossMax XL Wheels/ tyre set are excellent too. Much stiffer than the crossrocs.
Fitted offset shock bushes to my Jekyll tonight - will report back.
Parkesie mine did the same when released air out of negative chamber. How did you go about going through warranty. Did you just email mojo? For anyone else that has also sent the rear shock off and knows the procedure let me know please cheers
Filled in the online form, printed boxed up shock and posted it. Arrived fixed and ready to go 4 days later. It's just done a alps trip without a problem so job done.
My mate just heard back from Mojo. Despite telling them what he had done they've sorted it under warrenty. Great gesture from them I think.
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My poor trigger had a hard month. Twice having its heart removed. Mojo were great to deal with and both times I sent the shock on Tuesday and got it back the following Monday. Going by all the work. I won't need a service this year.
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Hey crazy my shock had everything yours had in 1 visit. Its had a good work out since and is performing like new still.
Question for tubeless carbon 2 owners. When you insert the valves into the crossroc rims (which have that little olive in place that protrudes through the rim, are you also supposed to use the rubber o-ring, or does that olive supersede it?
I didn't use the ring. Have looked at youtube vids, I decided to pop the ring on there, but it seems to me that it interferes with the olive so I reckon I should remove the ring again. Thoughts?
I think I used it. Never had any leakage...
Think i fitted it under the lock ring just so it dosnt scratch the rim. Wont keep air in but keeps water and shit out of the rim.
Cheers. Maybe I'll put them back on.
Ooops, I appear to have just ordered a carbon team trigger.
Quick Q - is there any issue fitting a flat bar? Would it interfere with the lefty crown?
I'd think it would be fine unless you fitted a shorter stem aswell.
Guys I just noticed the spacers under my stem on my Lefty are a little loose. No rattle but I can spin them with my fingers. I assume this is because there's no compression nut on this type of fork and is no big deal.??
No big deal on mine.
No big deal as it's a triple clamp.
Mine spin too. As do everyone's I think. If it bothers you, loosen the stem bolts and push down on the stem as you retighten them.
Cheers. Just checking with the experts on here. 🙂
Has anyone else started suffering from the lefty wheel wobble yet?
Lbs have fitted a shim that Cannondale recommend but it is back after 3 miles of riding!...
Lefty wheel wobble?
As in bearing play? I overtightend one ages ago and that killed the bearings. New bearings and not hanging off the Allen key sorted it.
Mine has developed play in the front hub. Apparently it is quite common and c'dale sell shims to remove the play.
If I remove the front wheel and put it back on, it's fine for a couple of miles then the play comes back.
Just [i]what[/i] are the benefits of a Lefty again? 😉
They're the only fork I've never bothered to service and had no problems with.
I've just ordered the Trigger 2 from Paul's Cycles (in fact looks like I may have got the last one - as it's since disappeared from the website) - and as this seems to be THE place for Trigger questions, I thought I'd come out of hiding and post.
I've gone with a 'Large'. This size seems to come with a rather long (80mm?) stem, which is probably the first thing I'd like to swap out. Is there anywhere I can pick-up a shorter Cannondale stem?
I did check some of the Cannondale spares places (Querty) - but C'dale stems seem a little thin on the ground.
Thanks in advance for the help.
My trigger 4 fork float 32 evolution ctd seems to be misbehaving. It's making a sucking noise on the rebound and it's also become easy to push through the climb mode blowout.
Would these things be a warranty repair or a service?
Thanks for any advice
Also want a shorter stem for mine, not many 1.5 steerers around.
Found this one but it is expensive/ugly:
chainreactioncycles.com/controltech-fx-1-5-stem/rp-prod51167
anything better?
A few have gone with Thomson Elite X4s I think.
Got a 45mm Thomson on mine sold the old one for 23..
60mm Easton Havoc stem on my XL Trigger 4
I have a 50mm Easton Havoc 1.5" that needs a new home ..... Email in profile 😉
Thanks, decided to go with the Thomson!
Well my Trigger Team turned up yesterday, and I must say it's a pretty scary beast. Not had a chance to ride it other than up and down the road, but it's waaaay more bike than the TNT Turner Flux it is replacing. I hope I can do it justice.
Few more questions for y'all. The Lefty lockout stiffens the fork up, but doesn't lock out completely. Should it?
Has anyone else had what I suspect is a creaky rear Mavic SLR wheel? I'm hoping it's just the spokes bedding in, it seems to be getting better. I'd rather that than a snappy carbon rear end as earlier in the thread.
Oh, and is it possible to remove the front mech direct-mount? It's bolted on, but looks like it could be part of the pivot assembly?
I love my Trigger 3. My biggest gripe is the cable routing under the BB, cable hanging down and it looks a mess. I see there is a small grommet in the seat tube, can this be used for internal routing of some of the cables? Has anyone done it?
The seat tube grommet is for and internal dropper, it joins up with another under the lower shock mount and exits by the head tube.
@ Kaysee. Can't help with the creaky wheel, but the Lefty lockout isn't a full lockout, so yours is working as it should.
Edit. As for the front mech mount, leave it on and fit the OneUp direct mount chain device. Cheap, very light and works a treat.
Routed my dropper internally, certainly much neater. Agree about the cables Routed under the BB. I've got some pretty nasty cable rub in that area too.
Happy with cable rub but it just looks gash! 3 cables hanging an inch under the BB. Was re-routing the dropper to internal easy or do you have a different (stealth?) dropper?
Is anyone having trouble with the trigger 3 dropper leaking...?
Not noticed the dropper leaking, but the remote snapped off in my hand last week - well the cable had snapped. It had been starting to get a little tight. On inspection the cable inner was as dry as a bone near the seat post and it had also come out of the guideline.
Last night's ride was cut short when I noticed I had very little travel up front on my Lefty. Bottomed out 40mm or more before the end result of the shaft with a clunk. I hoped all it needed was a bearing reset. The long ride home felt a little off as I was aware of a lack of damping and travel was short and soft.
It was the bearings. 5 min job and back to normal. Spent more time setting the sag than fixing the issue. Only dud about 500km which was less than I expected before needing the reset. On hindsight it probably needed it sooner. Might do it every couple months.
I also noticed a strange clicking, tapping sound when pedalling under load. Similar to the cracking sound of a slightly loose saddle. Sounds like it's coming from the cranks, BB, or thereabouts. Any ideas. Does it seated or standing and only on inclines where there's more effort through the pedals. The carbon models have SRAM BBC which are supposed to be pretty good so hopefully not that failing. Pedals are Superstar Nano X.
Could be the lower pivot bearings, they are not particularly well sealed and in a prime position to collect mud.
I can bounce around manically with no noise so it's not bearings or shock.
its not the sag indicator on the shock is it?
