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I've been setting my brakes up, as they have ended up rubbing more than I'd like.
It turns out that through either a process of fretting or very tight bolts, the area where the bolt head seats against the caliper has become slightly concave. This results in a tendency for the caliper to move to the same position every time you tighten the bolts.
Now, obviously, the solution is to either remove the excess material around the concave area, or to rebuild that area to make everything level again.
As you can see, there's stuff in the way of just filing everything flat:
[img] 
[/img] (shamelessly stolen image)
Any ideas? You can get in there with sandpaper and a finger, but it'd be a hell of a long job...
that flange to the LHS of the bolt head could of course be removed, but how about making a custom washer from an XTR caliper shim?
Is the caliper pretty well central on the disc? If so just centralise the pistons in the caliper - use the hope technique - Its far better than loosen bolts pull lever tighten bolts
http://www.hopegb.com/page_mep_force_39.html
Difficult to say TJ. You can see naff all on those calipers, and I suspect the seals are getting a little old so the pistons aren't retracting as much as they could be.
What's an XTR shim like? I'm actually using the caliper direct to post mount, with the IS adaptor removed. If it's just a shim, I can't see how it'd help. Or is there something special about the XTR? I've never been beyond the lowly levels of SLX 😉
is the slot in the calliper equal distance from the disc each side - nowt to do with the pistons or pads. You want teh disc in the centre of the slot
Teh hope techniquie is 2 stage - get caliper central on the disc then centrailse the pistons
an xtr shim is in the shape of a "Y", means when you use it as a washer it has no backside so you could fit it under the bolt head to create a base to tighten down to without the bolt drifting into the depression.
or jump to the chase and try a slightly larger headed bolt that will still fit inside the forged body?
The bolt head looks quite hemmed on those two sides, but is there enough room to fit in a concave and convex washer combo (á la v-brake pads/Avid tri-align) under the head? (Using a longer bolt if need be.)
If not, the Y(ish)-shaped washer is a fine idea for stopping the head 'sinking' into its rut.