I was giving mine a once over at the weekend, spotted a couple of bits of white worm and rusting around the bearings, before I contact the shop/Banshee I wondered if any other owners have similar issues.
[url= https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1608/25016984163_54ccab8ef7_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1608/25016984163_54ccab8ef7_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/E7EzPa ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/le_grande_momo/ ]Matt Cotterill[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1578/25525020042_6799a11c1e_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1578/25525020042_6799a11c1e_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/ETypbs ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/le_grande_momo/ ]Matt Cotterill[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1708/25276131699_52044776fe_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1708/25276131699_52044776fe_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/EvyMm8 ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/le_grande_momo/ ]Matt Cotterill[/url], on Flickr
Re the Inline question - Just for balance, I've been running one on a Banshee Prime for a year, not a single problem. Bit of trial and error, plus a bit of learning to get it set up, but a great shock.
Demoed the same frame with a DB Air CS, no difference for me, but then I ride mostly in the Tweed Valley, not the Alps.
@momo - aren't they just scratches in the clear-coat, and rust from steel bearing shells?
I can see rust on the exposed bit of outer race of my bearings. Have you ridden it on salted roads?
My raw frame was the same with the bearings...kind of looked like pitting of some kind. I changed the bearings fine though so I wouldn't worry too much.
Some Spitfirey thoughts - I hadn't realised how good the Banshee stealth finish is until I saw the marks already developing on my new stealth hardtail. For the black frames they shotblast the frame with rubberised decals, then peel the decals off and anodise, so the finish is more gloss where the decals were and more matt where the alu got blasted. Incredibly tough, still looks great after two years of abuse. Battery dying, will continue later...
Ordered my Spitfire yesterday. Almost a year of pondering since I did a test ride. Gone for the 2016 gunmetal with CCDB Inline and Halo Vapour wheels. Already have my Renthal cockpit, Pikes and Reverb sat at home waiting. XT 1x11 Groupset to be ordered today.
Still need to decide what brakes, pedals and tyres I'm going to put on it.
My CCDB inline has just come back from TF tuned, full warranty service after a low speed seal fault / chriping noise, had it 4 1/2 months. Works brilliantly now though.
Stupid question time... when installing cranks, do you leave the ISCG insertion even if you're not using it? And what are you doing with spacers?
I'm using XT 1x11 but not sure about spacing to get the right chainline. The cranks didn't come with instructions and can't find them on Shimano website.
I don't use the iscg mount, had to put bb spacers on to take up the equivalent iscg thickness, Otherwise bb was loose.
Thanks. How many spacers do you use on each side?
1 each side seems to give better chainline, running 1x10.
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Here it is on first ride.
Pikes, CCDB inline, Reverb Stealth, XT 1x11, Guide RSC brakes, Halo Vapour wheels and Renthal cockpit.
The silver wheels weren't planned, I was expecting black rims and spokes with silver hubs, but they were cheap so I couldn't justify sending them back. They're slowly growing on me.
Looks v nice mark88 enjoy. Amazing how much visually lighter and more XC the farm looks in that colour rather than the black ano I have.
Scruff re
My CCDB inline has just come back from TF tuned, full warranty service after a low speed seal fault / chriping
I'm just about to do this. Do TFT reset the shock to the factory spitty tune or leave as is?
Hsr1 lsr10 hsc1 lsc5 from TF, does feel better but I have 200psi for 15mm sag. Tried 3 volume spacers but gone back to 2 for more travel use all the time as can't feel bottoming on drops eitherway.
Some reviews of the 2016 Spitfire:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/banshee-spitfire-review-2016.html
http://factoryjackson.com/2016/04/11/banshee-spitfire-xo1-bike-test/
I think between them they sum it up pretty well!
Interesting to see that both test bikes came with a 150mm 27.5 fork (which is what the geometry charts are based around). I think most of us are running a 160mm fork and with the even lower BB and steeper seat angle of the 2016 version that extra travel, few mm of BB height and 0.5 deg off the angles would work great for gnarlier riding.
Even more interesting to read in one of those reviews that there are rumours of 'boost' dropouts coming.. Seems like the bike industry can't come up with a standard that Banshee can't 'absorb' with minimal fuss..!!? 🙂
Even more interesting to read in one of those reviews that there are rumours of 'boost' dropouts coming.. Seems like the bike industry can't come up with a standard that Banshee can't 'absorb' with minimal fuss..!!?
I really like the swappable dropouts for that reason!
Also, I think the slightly lower BB height on the 2016 makes the adjustable geometry that much more useful for 27.5 wheels. As mine is set up the BB height is 342mm (in the slack setting) - even lower would be fun for dirt trails but it's already right on the limit for being able to climb rocky trails without constantly smacking pedals or ratcheting to avoid hits. In the 2016 version the neutral BB height is the same as the original v2 in low/slack - obviously that affect the head angle but that's easy enough to change with a different headset.
And the tyre clearance is so huge that you could definitely run the 2.8" plus tyres if you wanted, and with the very low and adjustable BB height the geometry would be excellent.
Future-proof Banshees FTW! 😉
For info, I sent Banshee a message to ask about removing the ISCG tabs. They replied
You should leave the ISCG on, as it is necessary to make the BB 73mm wide.
Nah, it's fine with extra bb spacers.
Guys, anyone try Fox Float X2 shock in a banshee Spitfire v2? Any reviews as compare with CCDB air CS?
I haven't but I can't see why it wouldn't work very well. It's an easy frame to tune a shock for and the X2 is as adjustable as the Cane Creek. Just make sure the air can isn't too small or it'll ramp up too strongly.
I asked Banshee about boost dropouts and got this answer, think it's probably OK to share:
"Oh, don't get me started on all these stupid 'standards' that the big brands come up with to make more money... it's a pain for people who are buying parts, but imagine what it's like for designers like myself who have to keep making changes fo n real reason.... rant over! haha
I don't plan to make 148 boost dropouts for the current frames if I can avoid it due to cost of opening new forgings, however as always, if there is enough customer demand I will supply what people ask for. you will not feel any difference between a well built 142 wheel and a well built 128 wheel. Sure a test machine might spot 3% difference in latteral stiffness, but a rider really will not considering that 1psi difference in tire pressure will have more effect probably."
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thought I better join the owners club.
First ride out. loving the Debonair rockshox can, easy to dial in and rides ace!
Eagle groupset and some Carbon wheels and it will be done.
pedals bloody well and already faster on the descents of Cannock than I was on my old Norco fluid or Stanton switchback.
Looks like my Crane Creek Inline might be bust. Annoying as only 1.5 years old. Might send it to TF Tuned to see what they say, but if £200 to fix, might better to replace. Go with the same as its excellent, reliability aside, or are others now running something different on their v2 Spitfires?
Been having trouble with the CCDB CS Air on my Spitfire since I bought it second-hand. The compression adjustments seemed to make little or no difference to the performance. On many jumps I've been getting bucked and going really nose heavy. Not a problem I've had before although its forced me to question my technique! Anyway sent it to TFT and its got some internal problems meaning I've got pretty much no damping at all. £170 for a full service and to fix the problems. Ouch, but cheaper than a new one and should be good as new once its back.
What happened with your Inline ahsat?
Snapped the little lock bolt on my 142 axle last night! That thing is pretty soft. Better pay particular attention to the torque setting next time as opposed to waiting for my elbow to click 😀
One of my mates had a huge crash in the Alps last year, hitting a 30'+ tabletop - the back end bucked and he went out the front, in a tumble of dust. He had the shock serviced when he got back and found the rebound damping circuit was blown wide open.
Only 3Nm on that little bolt - little more than finger tightness or a hex key the long way around, if you don't have a torque wrench to hand.
Seems the Inlines still aren't all that reliable. My CCDBA-CS has been great and for uplift days I think the piggyback makes sense.
Nice stealth build dbikeguy - sounds like the final version will be very bling!
wilko1999 - I have brand new spare axle if you want it cheap - ive emailed you
You have mail Jingles
Jingles, where did you get your spare axle, as I've "done a Wilko" too!
its still available if you want it Pz
ive emailed you
ygm
Ha ha I've become a 'thing'! As it happens I am the master of stripping threads and snapping bolts. I really must get a decent torque wrench
After making a massive mistake last year selling my spitfire due to a house move that ended up costing me a fortune, I'm now in a position to build another.
I've looked at the competition but I keep coming back to the spitfire, if I'm honest my last one was blue but I'm not that keen on this years colours. I'd probably go for a black one but I'm not sure how tough the anodising is? Can anyone with a black one let me know please? Thanks.
I'd be doing the same - with the lightly tweaked geometry (lower BB, longer reach, steeper seat tube) it looks even better than before.
The anodised black finish is really tough - my also stealth black Bird is a quarter of the age and has done a quarter of the mileage and looks more worn (and the paint on that is at least as good as the paint on my Soul was). And the anodised finish is lighter than paint - plus the decals aren't actually there, they're just a change in the surface texture, so they can't be damaged.
Anodised is far tougher, and lighter as mentioned. I put about 3000k on my Phantom without any frame protection, still looked mint when I sold it.
Cheers lads, much appreciated. Will I get away with not helitaping it? Did it myself last time and it wasn't much fun.
I've just noticed the ctd has gone and we now have the monarch or the inline. Which one is the better of the two? I had the ctd last time but regretted not going for the inline initially but after seeing quite a few people having problems with the inline I stuck with the ctd.
I've never helitaped mine, just a couple of spots of black insulation tape where cables touch the head tube, a neoprene chainstay protector and (this is a bit more leftfield) three chunky cable ties at the BB end of the chainstay where you get chain slap when in the slackest setting. The anodised finish is on the matt side of things with the not-decals being more silk, so helitape might look too gloss anyway.
Mine has the DBair-CS but as that's not an option now I'd go with the Inline. I'm still not 100% confident about the Inline's reliability but they seem to be getting better - I'd only avoid it if you'll be an infrequent or light user and risk not showing up any faults within the warranty period. With the DBair the performance of the rear suspension is sublime.
Just received a warranty replacement for my old Mint Large Spitfire. Shock shaft on the CCDB Inline was being polished on one side - appears that there was a very slight misalignment in the rear end.
I now have a medium black frame all built up and it looks lush. No InvisiFrame this time, just old inner tube on the drive side chain stay and lower seat stay.
I asked for a medium as the new large is larger than the 2015 large and I was now just outside of the recommended size range.
Ison were awesome with the warranty BTW (as Gravitate in Newcastle closed in November), and I received the new one 6 days after posting my Minty one back.
A CCDB may need fixing at some point, but the geometry, KS suspension and my now TF warranty fixed inline CS is absolutely brilliant.
Black ano is pretty tough, mines fine still, riding it since November.
I suspect Helitape would look pants on an anodised finish. The black ano on my 2013 CTD Spitfire is still looking good. I just put a bit of black gaffer tape round the swingarm where the cables go past.
I'd probably have to ride it more to scratch it though, usually end up thinking about a ride and just taking the CX bikeout instead.
Keep thinking of flogging the frame and putting the bits on a steel hardtail.
Off to Morzine tomorrow, gave it a good service and fitted the Shortys and a 36t chainring
[url= https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7294/27211012684_b3d8497115_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7294/27211012684_b3d8497115_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Hsxy47 ]Alps ready Spitfire[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/le_grande_momo/ ]Matt Cotterill[/url], on Flickr
Thanks again, food for thought.
Just looking at the Patrol and on paper it looks very similar to the spitfire. Has anyone here rode the Patrol?
Mate has a Scout, more similar to a Spitfire than a Patrol I'd have thought. Transition seems to dent more easily 😉
