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As title I need to remove my Sram Force Crank from my road bike as I'm selling my frame following a warranty replacement. The problem I have is the cap the holds the crank arm on seams to be stuck fast? I have put WD on it but nothing. Just concerned with damaging the carbon crank arms.
Thanks
Is there a self extracting nut missing?
Most Sram cranks have a bolt which loosens and then braces against an outer nut to push the crankarm off.
You poke the allen key through the wider outer nut to turn the actual crankbolt.
Hope that makes sense
It's just a single alloy cap that gone into the shaft of the crank.
put a pic up
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[url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/95305703@N03/15395223183/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/people/95305703@N03/ ]rowlapa[/url], on Flickr
Im trying to undo it against the arrow
Stick a 10mm in there and give it some beans.
It's had more than beans
Stop being a fanny,
Have another cuppa.
Secure the pedal to the chainstay with zip ties/toe clip straps (lots of) and use a seatpost/handlebar as a lever on the hex.
Then get the wife to do it.
Just to check your not trying to unscrew the out cap ?
PMSL fair play that's the way mate
Had an old set of handle bars on the 10mm already and **** all movement. Don't fancy the chain stay option as its a carbon frame. Thinking the Germans have had the old loctite on it when building the bloody thing arrrrrrrrrr
Only a single cap no inner section like the older Sram cranks
BB30 use an ali spindle and an ali bolt.They just let go all of a sudden with a bit of a bang.
I've done lots (11 years in bikeshops).You'll not damage the stays.
Only a single cap no inner section like the older Sram cranks
You are undoing the correct side are'nt you?
Is that picture of your bike/crank or a googled image?
Get a hammer involved. Shock loading might just be enough to crack the bolt off. If that doesn't work then you need to give it even more beans.
Top men thank you for the advice will give it a go again tomorrow after some bike time.
Cheers
That's my crank, the drive side is the hollow and the cap is on the non drive side.
Was considering holding the crank arm in the work stand?
Had no trouble with my X1 crank which the same fixing bolt? So will grow a set and give it the beans
As I've a shagged shoulder sram cranks are often a two person job at work
Me standing on a pedal and other on the end of a big bar. As long as your sure the Allen key is in properly it's just a question of more force
Thanks orangeboy will be taking the frame with me this morning and enlist the help of one of my riding mates I think.
Thanks to everyone for the advice