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hi, apologies for another one of these but i'm all out of ideas.
My new Slackline build is a couple of weeks old now and i thought i'd managed to rid myself of the pesky creaks(and there were a few). However todays short ride brought another noise from the rear, a couple of screws holding one of the dropouts in place had worked its way loose....this has been rectified with blue locite(not done at the factory clearly).
There is creaking definitely coming from the BB when i put power on the pedals, now I've just stripped, regreased, and re-torqued the BB, cranks and pedals for the 3rd time. This was a new Sram gxp BB for this build, Sram 2x10 self extracting cranks didn't creak on my old bike
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I realise new builds everything needs time to bed in, things need re-tightened but everything else is working super sweet...really don't know what else to do?
Rear hub? Either bearings in freehub or bearings in main body might need renewing.
A vile creak started in mine and I thought it was the BB.
There is creaking definitely coming from the BB
There's no definitely with bike creaks 😉
Saddle rails, seatpost clamp, headset, pedal axle bearings, QR/maxles....
Saddle rails.
I've been convinced of BB noises and gone crazy removing and cleaning them when it's the rails. Carbon rails definitely need paste.
Does it do it stood up under power?
Does it do it stood up under power?
Yep this is when it's at it's most prevalent, hence me pointing the finger at BB/cranks. The saddle is Ti/chromo rails and is greased & horsed up.
Rear hub? Either bearings in freehub or bearings in main body might need renewing.
I hope not, the wheels were bought 2nd hand and came from a 2016 Saracen mantra elite(Kore XCD, formula hubs i think)..they barely had an use before i got them.
Is there anyway to clarify where the issue is?
Is there anyway to clarify where the issue is?
Well - can you try another rear wheel? If it creaks as well......
For context, my bearings in the admittedly notorious Novatec hubs lasted just 5 months of winter riding.
The Ezo bearings had no grease in them or it had been washed out.
I just bought new bearings - it was easy to change them.
Compare that to my last Shimano Ultegra hubs cone hubs which lasted 8 years 🙂
Is there anyway to clarify where the issue is?
Well - can you try another rear wheel? If it creaks as well......
For context, my bearings in the admittedly notorious Novatec hubs lasted just 5 months of winter riding.
The Ezo bearings had no grease in them or it had been washed out.
I just bought new bearings - it was easy to change them.
Compare that to my last Shimano Ultegra hubs cone hubs which lasted 8 years 🙂
Dont have another wheel 😕
Check spoke tension though. My recent annoying click/squeak was a couple of loose spokes jangling around.
I would have to get my google-fu to know how to check spoke tension, would it be obvious just by touch if something wasn't right?>?
http://www.saracen.co.uk/bikes/mountain/trail/mantra
its the same wheels they're speccing on the 2017 model ,
Also check stem bolts
I would have to get my google-fu to know how to check spoke tension, would it be obvious just by touch if something wasn't right?>?
Yes - the loose spoke would be much slacker than the rest.
I have the same crank with a PF/BB30 bearings and after taking off last week to clean it creaked like mad this weekend...I think its the bb bearings creaking in the bb/fram shell. wound up and loosened off the crank pre-load adjust plastic thing with no success...love to hear a cure other than get rid off pf30 bb's...
GXP not pressfit.
Had a quick grope of the spokes on the rear, nothing screaming out to me that it's loose.
stood up under power means you're also honking on the bars, so stem/bar interface and bolts worth looking at, along with stem/steerer and headset/frame.
are your cleat bolts tight ? spent months looking for that one 😳
Creaks are a nightmare. I had a sharp sort or cracking/creaking when I pedaled my Aeris once.
I was convinced it was pivots/BB/Headset etc. Turned out to be a bit of grit trapped in the seatube...
Have you tried: Take the chainrings bolts out, rotate the rings, clean and regrease. Worked for my bike (returned after a while though but I know what causes it at least).
So i reckon its the rear hub/wheel, when applying sideways pressure..it creaks on the driveside 🙁 Does this mean bearing are fnurked?all being correct like thru-axle done up correctly.
Sounds more thru axle/dropout/spoke related if it is sidewards pressure making it creak
have you greased where the spokes contact each other?
It does sound like its coming from the dropouts/ thru axle...and as i said earlier today one of the dropouts had some screws that were very loose but i've attended to that by loctite and nipping them up.(other dropout is solid)
The thru axle is a stanton own thing, (6nm max on the lever)...but i mean you can only do the things up so much or you can't flip the lever to lock them.
A couple that I found that were driving me mad:
1. chainrings - took them off the cleaned the mounting interface points and solved one creak.
2. spokes creaking against each other, found it by lubing each point the spokes crossed, drove me mad for ages!
Good luck!
Its coming from the rear wheel/ thru axle, i think that i have not been doing it up tightly enough and this caused the rear dropouts to come loose(makes sense). However i am not really comfortable with the level of pressure to lock the lever in the closed position, i am no where near the max 6nm in rotating the lever tight but flipping the lever closed take more pressure than say the fox thu-axle on the front, don't want to crush the bearings.mmm
Anyone else have experiences of the stanton thru -axle?
I wrote this on Cycle Chat and a couple of regulars on there have written to thank me for solving their creaky BB30s. You can see the pic in the original post here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/cannondale-bb30-bottom-bracket.196684/page-3#post-4207483
BB30 creaks are almost always attributed to the bearings moving in the frame but long experience with two bikes fitted with FSA BB30 cranksets has proved to me that the problem is the following: in order for the BB axle to pass though the two inner races it has to be a snug but not tight fit. This leaves sufficient play for the actual axle to fret under pedalling forces inside the bearing inner races, setting up a creak as friction and heat build up. In evidence of this, here's a picture of my FSA axle after only 500 miles:
[img]20140523_195613_zps9dc25291.jpg[/img]
Notice how the band of the machined area that's within the bearing inner races has eroded and notice how much less eroded the drive side is, thanks to the stabilising effect of the chainrings. White or green grease smeared on this area quickly turns black as the metal wears and the creaking soon returns. The remedy is to smear bearing fit compound on the axle; smear it on the axle at the drive end and inside the bearing at the non-drive end so that it has the best chance of not being wiped off as you push the crankset axle through from the RH side. This cures the creaking, permanently, or at least until you next dismantle the BB.
Edit: by contrast the bearings are a tight fit inside those alloy shells and require an extractor to move them so they don't fret and move.
Headset, stem bolts, spokes, chain ring bolts, qr skewer,Saddle rails, pedals, cleats etc etc
Clean and lubricate / grease everything...
Check the little bolts that hold the derailleur hanger in the frame; I've heard of them working loose. Tighten the QRs "effing tight" if your bike has QRs.
More on that flexible hollow axle here:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/noisy-bb.214251/page-5#post-4778921