[Closed] 44mm headsets?

In principle Cane Creek make 44 mm headsets. I've not seen any for sale yet though (not that I've looked hard).

look on the hope website, they have a brilliant guide to download.

Hope will be your best bet. I've got a Nukeproof and it is "deep cup"

I assume you mean using this one?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=60616

I've used the Tapered version in my iron horse and had to cut down the cup ....v easy, just used a hacksaw and file took about 1/2 an hour.... most of the time spent measuring 😉

Cane creek do some but...... my LBS has been pants.... ordered cups in Sept delivery delayed until mid nov.... so ordered the nuke proof from CRC £30 cheaper..... and has the Cane creek arrived..... nope..

save yourself the grief go for the nuke proof and either cut them down yourself ... or find someone handy with a hacksaw

The 44mm headsets are designed to fit in a headtube with a 44mm internal diameter (ones which use a semi integrated headset)

A standard frame which has a 44mm headtube has got a lip for the semi integrated headset bearing to sit on so it means that the Nukeproof headset cannot be pressed in to the frame with out the frame or headset being further modified. By doing this you are potentially going to damage the frame as the headtube will either need machined out or if you cut the headset cup you are giving the headset less to grip on, in the headtube.

The new Ragley and Nukeproof frames and also some others are coming with 44mm headtubes but there is no lip for a bearing to sit on so the Nukeproof headsets can be pressed properly in to the headtube without causing any damage. This gives you the option to run a 1 1/8" or tapered steerer in the frames depending on the headset you choose.

nope, hope don't do one.

canecreek have a gap in their range too.

bump for the dayshift?

nukeproof 44EEOS DC and a hacksaw?

[b]T1000[/b] For your tapered forks on the iron horse did you use this head set [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=60615 ]44IETS-DC[/url]. I am presuming the lower cup was the one that required modification?

Which frame did you use the headset in? I am going to be looking at doing this to a Mk III

Cheers

Rusty

Cane Creek does do it - you can buy upper and lower cups separately. From the Extra catalogue you want BAA0160K for the lower assembly I believe.

Chris King also does one - the In-set mixed tapered.

As for cup depth and frame compatibility, measure twice and cut once.

hmm, those cane creek things aren't available anywhere.

edit; that chris king thing has a 44mm [i]upper[/i] cup, so it's half-way there, maybe i could get 2 and...
.
.
. (scraps that idea)

thanks for looking!

[url= http://www.aspirevelotech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CKNTS-INSET ]Here?[/url]

er, nice try but no.

they're all 1&1/8" or 1.5"

i've got a 44mm headtube, and have seen some cheap 1.5" forks...

If I were you I would call Extra (UK Cane Creek distributor) and ask them - 01933672170

Rust Mac [b] yes thats the one it's fitted to my mk111 and the lower cup required shortening

T1000

cheers for that, how are you finding the headset/tapered forks?

I'm going to be ordering one at the end of the month to get a set of the cheep Revelation RLT forks from merlin fitted.

[i]my LBS has been pants.... ordered cups in Sept delivery delayed until mid nov.... so ordered the nuke proof from CRC £30 cheaper..... and has the Cane creek arrived..... nope..[/i]

hardly the LBS being pants though is it?

suits the bike, running Talas 32 150's suits the bike being lifted at the front by about 10 mm by the lower cup + I tend to run my forks with plenty of sag .

no clearance or handling problems tapered forks feel great..... prefer them to my 36's.....

[url= http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/HOPEHEADSETS2010English.pdf ]2011 HOPE HEADSET GUIDE[/url] is this any help?

no, not really.

thanks though...

(hope don't do a headset that will let you fit 1.5" forks in a 44mm frame)

update: i gave up looking, and just bought the nukeproof 44EEOS, and a pair of 1.5" domain forks.

a nice chap at work turned the headset cups down from 20mm long, to 'a smidge less that 12' and i'm about to go out drinking.

when i get back, battering the cups in with a heavy piece of wood will seem like a great idea.

what could go wrong?

ahwiles how did you get on with your drunken battering?

a second slightly more refined option for you could be getting a section of M12 bar, a couple of bolts and some washers progressively getting larger to match/exceed the size of the headset and head tube then do one half at a time and use a large spanner and squeeze each side in. I would think you could get all the bits from a local fasteners for under a tenner.

Let me know how you got on please, I will be doing this at the end of the month 🙂

I just wrote something on this which might be a bit of use...

http://www.shedfire.com/2011/02/19/nukeproof-warhead-headsets/

Cheers Brant,

Any chance of you designing and manufacturing a 44EEOS model, non deep cup especially a lower so that we don't have to machine a little off the current lower cup of a 44IETS-DC to fit tapered forks into frames designed to house standard intigrated 44mm headsets.

As this thread shows a few people have proceded and modified them to get it to work already so it would seem there could be a market for them.

Cheers

Rusty

i din't get drunk enough to think it was a good idea, i'll have another piece of toast, and then proceed with 'gentle knocking'

Brant - thankyou for helping to push this 44mm thing, it's a great idea. 1.5" forks are so cheap they're practically free.

a non-deep-cup 44EEOS would be a seller i think - maybe even with a stainless lower cup to ease a few worries i had about losing a little strength by moving the bearings 'outboard'...

Oh, don't worry. Non deep cup ones are on the way. I got a bit of a kicking for ordering the deep cup ones off Stock Control.

Ps. I always use a bit of wood, or if I can find it, a big rubber mallet I bought from Abid's in Tod.

update:

gentle knocking = fail.

firm knocking = success.

firm knocking - noted, rubber mallet acquired, payday can't come soon enough.

12mm threaded bar, nut, big washers = less risk.......