I took the front mech off my bike a while ago just to see, and then I realised that without a clutch and N/W I'd have no chance of keeping the chain on (it's FS) so I put it all back on again straight away.
Then I noticed stuff like this - nice small chain guide that might help:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/oneup-components-low-direct-mount-chain-guide/rp-prod148246
So I reckon I'm good to go with some spacers instead of short chain bolts to get the chainring further in board than just the inside of the tabs.
However, a few people seem to have cracked cranks doing this - the suggestion is that maybe the big ring adds some strength that exposes the spider to more stress when removed. Anyone else heard of this?
Anyone used one of those chain guides with a normal chainring and clutch-less mech?
However, a few people seem to have cracked cranks doing this – the suggestion is that maybe the big ring adds some strength that exposes the spider to more stress when removed. Anyone else heard of this?
Been running a 3x9 crank as 1x9 for some time. Filed down the unused nobby bits. I don't believe the lack of a big chainring on a 3x9 crank would cause trouble and I've never had any trouble, and this isn't the first time I've run 1x9 on a triple (it's the 2nd). Deore HTII cranks.
not sure i understand the question but yes chain guides stop your chain from dropping.
I spaced out one of my cranks and it has not cracked - i had washers and long chain bolts
Cheap narrow wide and some bolts and spacers should sort it - if you need the spacers that is. If you use middle ring position you shouldn't need the spacers.
You could put a bashguard in place of the outer ring.
Do I even need NW with a chainguard?
Does NW work with 9sp?
I've run a couple of hardtails 1 x 9, without a clutch mech, but with a narrow-wide chainring, and it definitely stopped the chain dropping.
Before I bought a narrow-wide for the first one, I left the front mech on as a crude chain retainer - it didn't stop the chain dropping, but it was kind of self-correcting.
Looking at ratios now.
I can get a 12-36T cassette or I can go to 30T at the front (104 BCD are available in 30T). Cheaper to simply change the cassette as they wear out anyway of couse, and I have the lovely carbon/titanium middle ring currently. But 12-36T cassettes seem to be hard to come by - there's only one model. 30/11 is slightly taller than 32/12 but 30/34 is basically the same as 30/34. Either way I get a bottom gear I'll be okay with but with a 30T ring I'll have a better top gear.
I've run variations on that setup on bikes since the late 90s.
Cranks are pretty much the only part of me or the bike I haven't cracked in that time xD
You definitely need some sort of chain retention. I've got a 1x9 setup with a bash guard, but no NW or clutch mech on one of my bikes and it's a colossal pain in the arse. Constantly dropping chains.
Yes narrow wide will work with 9 spd. Bash guard might help with chain retention.
Narrow wide can be had for £5 off AliExpress and are pretty decent.
I got a NW 34t Ring-Master from On-One for my 1x9 rigid commute MTB. Had chain drop from time to time but mostly not.
I’ve not had any problems on my 5 just using a Superstar NW ring and no clutch mech.
Had the same set up on my mount vision and have never lost the chain on either bike.
I'd say don't bother with the chain guide, fit a narrow wide ring and get some shorter chainring bolts. I ran this exact setup on my soul for over a year without dropping the chain once. The chainset did eventually fail but it was nowt to do with the chainring.
Yes but this is a full sus. So the chain will be flapping around loads more than if it were a HT.
Will try the chain guide, and since I think I want a new ring anyway I"ll see about NW.
I converted from 3x9 to 1x9 over the winter on my HT, mainly as when I replaced the cassette and chain I discovered the chainrings weren't all that great. I used the Shimano 12-36 cassette, new chain, 32 tooth narrow wide and single ring bolts were from Uber Bikes. That was using my existing old XT rear mech and triple chainset.
I've not ridden it a huge amount, but when I have been out it's been fine, so problems shifting or dropping chains. If you're replacing your cassette and chain I'd be tempted to put a narrow wide on too. If you want more range Sunrace do 11-40 cassettes, but you'll probably need to run a goat link too for extra rear mech clearance. I've never tried this but there are a few videos on youtube of people running this setup happily.
Yes but this is a full sus. So the chain will be flapping around loads more than if it were a HT.
Will try the chain guide, and since I think I want a new ring anyway I”ll see about NW.
I'd go the other way ....
I have 5 different bikes all running 1x ... (and at some point all were 1x10) but the NW will still work on the 9 speed chain unless you go for a fancy 12sp one.
Only one of these had a chain guide and that's the dirt jump bike... and I'm not even convinced that "needs" it but it was in the spares bin.
I've run 1x with the clutch off of a FS by accident many times (including riding every orange at FOD) with a NW and not lost a chain - noticed when I was taking the wheel off .. and I tried a non NW on a HT and lost the chain 2-3 times on a VERY tame ride.
You can have a chain guide top and bottom .... NW and clutch and its still possible to drop a chain.
I'd be tempted to upgrade to 1x10 or up ... if you want a 40T and depending what's in your spares bin...
I had a spare 10sp cassette and spare NW and lightly used chain and just converted a 3x8 to a 1x10 Zee mech and shifter and Saint Cranks for about £60.... (all lightly used off eBay) ... since this is a jump bike with gears and a front brake and a QR ... (also used riding TO local woods/jumps) I used the spare chain guide that was sat in the spares bin. (I'm not convinced I needed it but it was spare - taken off Jnr's FS when I fitted a NW and clutch mech)
Ive yet to need a goat link for any 1x up to 40T... on any of 4 bikes and 2 of those are kid sized... the adult ones are a Giant XtC and Whyte T-130... YMMV based on chain stay length and mech/mech hanger... but all of these worked with a SLX/XT rear mech (both previous and current series) . (I didn't try on the hack/jump bike as its 11-32 but my default would be to try it first if I was... )
The only issue is pedalling backwards.... it may change down... this isn't a real issue when riding though it bothers me in a OCD way!
Cassette, sunrace do an 11-40 9 speed (I made up my own 11-42 from 2 cassetes and an expander but when it wears out i'll just get the sunrace now it's available.)
Narrow wide with 9 speed, wolftooth recommend using a 10 speed chain, which is what I have been doing for ages with no problems...someone will be along in a minute to point out that a 9 speed chain has the same internal dimension as 10 speed anyway
(this is on a cx)
Yes but this is a full sus. So the chain will be flapping around loads more than if it were a HT.
Sorry but I don't buy this at all. Most full suss put more tension on the chain as the suspension compresses, hence the chain will bounce less on an impact than if it was on a hardtail.
But it looks like you've made your mind up what you want to do anyway so go for it and report back here with the results.
Had the first ride today on 1x9, the original 32T chainring and 11-34. I fitted one of these:
And it worked very well. Chain didn't drop at all. In terms of range, it forced me to push pretty hard up the climbs, but I seemed to relish it. Came back more tired from a 2.5 hour ride, which is a good thing.
However the chainline is a bit rubbish. I fitted spacers so the ring is in a similar spot to when it was a middle ring, but it's still quite sharp to the big sprocket, more so than the small one. So can I get spacers to move it inboard more than a mm or two? 5mm would be nice.
From past experience it's mainly the NW chainring that keeps the chain from dropping.
I've run 1x9 with a NW ring and normal rear mech, and whilst the chain does flap about, it never came off. Nothing wrong with using a top chain guide as well, just to be absolutely 100% certain.
Cassettes, I went Shimano 12-36 As it was a fair bit cheaper than 11-40 Cassettes, and with a 30T NW up front it's about the same gear ratio for climbing as a 32T and 11-40 cassette is. Chainring was less than a tenner, unbranded NW, works great.
Just converted from 2x9 to 1x9. Sunrace 11-40 cassette and Clarks narrow wide 30t ring on a standard 104bcd chainset. No chain guide and standard long cage slx rear mech, no goatlink etc.
Chain hasn't dropped and gaps between ratios are fine. Chain ok as the 30t ring is offset towards the frame a little to allow clearance for the chain away from the chainring tabs.
I might get a 30T ring but keep the 11t on the back. On the other hand, it was alright today and made me work harder, so maybe I'll stick with it.
I'm happy with the chain guide - it's a tiny neat little thing, very well made, and weighs nothing to speak of.
Last time I checked my 5 and Mount Vision were full sus.
