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Hi all,
I have been pondering changing my 2x9 set-up to either 1x10 or 1x9. My current sizing is 36/32-11t. I have a medium cage XT on the rear and just a Blackspire tensioner/roller on the front. The cheapest way to change to single ring would be a narrow-wide on the front, so I'd only need to change the cassette, chain, and from ring.
How reliable will 1x9 with only a narrow-wide be for chain retention?
Best tooth size for the 1x9 set-up?
Cheers
Colin
Mate running 1 x 9 Sram X0 with N/W ring. Couple of drops on really rough stuff. What rings do you have and use most on your 2 x 9? When I changed from 2 x 10 I had 28/40 rings and went for a 30T N/W.
I often contemplate it... but then I think
"Why"... .
What would it actually gain running 1x9 over running 2x9 currently ?
My main issue is climbing. On longer climbs the 36/32 is tough going.
I've been running 1x9 with a Raceface NW ring and a 9 speed short cage XT mech for a while and it's been fine, but I'm not all the fast so ymmv.
My main issue is climbing. On longer climbs the 36/32 is tough going.
Unless you plan on dropping down a 30T front ring I wouldn't bother changing. You'd save some weight but your granny gear will be more use to you I'd of thought.
To be honest I bet that 99% of the time you will get away with any old single ring and mech. I can't recall ever loosing a chain before all the new kit came out. Unless you are racing is it really important. I'd happily save 50 quid and have 1 chain drop an hour.
Yea, I'm racing. Oddly I have been dropping the chain even with the tensioner and correct* chain length.
*my own uneducated guess 😆
I'd happily save 50 quid and have 1 chain drop an hour.
I experimented with my Works Component N/W with my non-clutch hardtail on Friday. 1-drop an hour was the rate I got. PITA as the granny-ring & ISCG mounts are perfect chain jammers.
I run 1x9 with a 34 front on two bikes.
29er hardtail I'm running a top guide and have never had a chain drop.
26 FS narrow wide ring, had 3 drops in about 300 miles.
34x32 is mostly fine round here (South Downs around Brighton) but it doesn't suit a sit and spin approach.
I ran 1x9 on my old bike with no chain guide, clutch mech, or NW chainring.
Dropped the chain maybe 2% of rides. Not really an issue.
Changed to 1x9 (32 front, 12-36) with a non-clutch mech, standard chain ring and cheap superstar components top guide.
No drops at all, and set up is fine for local regular riding in the Chilterns, at the time it was cheaper to just get the top guide and use a ring i already had and eliminate the 'will it drop/won't it drop' question.
Thanks for all the replies. I have decided to go 1x10, 32t and 36-11t. Just a quick one, what chainring bolts do I need for the RF N/W with the old style SLX cranks?
1. Hardtail, 9sp 36/12-36, old SLX non-clutch, top-guide.
Generally OK, but from time to time it flicks out off the bottom of the chainring and jams in the top-guide when you pedal, rather than going back on. This is a total ball ache. The general cause is slight back pedalling while hitting some rough ground at speed. I reckon an outer bash may help; a quarter bash would fit along with the top-guide.
2. 6" FS, 10sp 32tt/11-42, new SLX clutch mech, quarter bash
Brilliant. Even hammering down rocky/cobbled Spanish mountain trails there were no drops. A couple of caveats: a mate runs his without a bash at all and also had no problems. I ran mine forgetting to turn on the clutch, with no problems. My conclusion is that a tt chainring really works for retaining the chain.
Toptip - shorten your chain!
29er hardtail with 1 x 9, a 'what I had' set up which I've continued to ride with for over a year now.
xt long cage rear mech, non clutch
Hope single ring. Normal not a NW one.
Superstar components top guide.
Ratio is 32 chainring 34 cassette
I ride south Dartmoor mostly. It's very doable. When I've been riding regularly you become quite used to it. But some climbs are no way sit and spin anymore.
Oh yea, not dropped chains at all. But then, am not a razzer