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1x10 Drivetrain Con...
 

[Closed] 1x10 Drivetrain Conversion

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[#6133812]

Hello all,

I'm currently in the process of converting my bike from a 2x10 to a 1x10 drivetrain. I've ditched the front mech and shifter, and a Hope Retainer narrow-wide chainring is on it's way to me thanks to the internet bike fairies.

Does anyone have any top tips/wise words for me or anyone else jumping onto the 'one by' bandwagon?

Thanks in advance,

Jon


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 2:13 pm
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I've done the same from a triple and love it (can use the whole range now) although perhaps controversially I've left the inner ring on (as it weighs next to nothing) and change it manually!! - this works OK for me because most of our rides are 1 huge up and 1 big down so really I only have to change it once (by hand!) during a 2 hour or so stint ... (if at all depending on the route chosen)

The Zee clutch mech works brilliantly (even though I'm generally a SRAM man)

I've not lost the chain yet .... (famous last words!) 🙂


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 2:28 pm
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Have you got / you may need narrow chainring bolts (I don't think you will if you are converting from a 2x10 chainset tbh)

And although there are may who say it's not needed, a clutch mech as well is the belt and braces approach to chain retention.


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 2:28 pm
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Judging by the last couple of rides I've been on, you will also need to prepare a list of excuses why you couldn't get up the last climb.

It's definitely not because of your choice of gearing...


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 4:08 pm
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I'm hoping that the bolts i've already got will fit (it's a Shimano XT crankset). How do they differ?

I am tempted by a clutch mech, as I've got a standard XT one at the moment. I'll see how it goes first with the old mech!

Nice work on the manual front shifting! 😉

What are your thoughts on a chain guide?

Cheers!


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 4:09 pm
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wiggle just tweeted this if it's any help;

[url= http://guides.wiggle.co.uk/how-to-convert-to-a-1x10-set-up ]http://guides.wiggle.co.uk/how-to-convert-to-a-1x10-set-up[/url]

[edit] as an aside I don't use a clutch mech and have lost the chain a couple of times on my FS bike with an nw chain ring. I'm probably going to fit a top guide to it, tbh, it has one at the bottom already as it's a liteville frame.


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 4:10 pm
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I'm fully prepared on the excuses front after the last couple of outing with some roadie friends! The gearing should be quite friendly, Im going for a 32T chainring and a 11-36 cassette, compared to the previous set up of 28/40T rings and a 11-32 cassette 🙂

Thanks for the Wiggle link 🙂

Are you more or less likely to drop the chain on a hardtail would you say?


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 4:11 pm
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I've recently gone to a 1x10 setup (after singlespeeding during winter) by keeping my 32T Hope DH ring upfront and adding my non-clutch XTR M980 mech, chain and XT 11-32 cassette.

All fine so far.

You will need shorter bolts if (like me with an XT M780 triple) you are going from three rings up front to one.


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 4:21 pm
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I think you should be OK going from a proper shimano double to a single, as the bolts go direct into the crankarms iirc. Whereas on a triple, or double plus bash, the middle and outer use the same m&f bolts and are therefore longer to accommodate the thickness of two rings.

What model XT is it - should be a part number stamped on the inside.

More or less likely to drop the chain on a HT? Don't know. On one hand the damping effect of the suspension might make the chain less likely to bounce. On the other, you have the constant chain growth and whatever-the-opposite-of-chain-growth-is on a FS that might make the chain less stable. Bottom line - try it and see.


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 4:31 pm
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If converting from a double check your chain line. It's harder to get it right with a double. I had to run the bb spacer on the non drive side to move the outer ring position into the middle of the cassette.

I've just ordered a triple chainset from crc using the egg10 and other 10% code as the back of the drive side arm was rubbing on the chainstay


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 4:38 pm
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I just changed to 1x10 last week using my XT785 cranks. The XT bolts are the right length. I had to move the bb spacer to the non drive side. Got a RF n/w 32t and added a Hope 40t t-rex to my XT771 11-36 cassette after removing the 17t cog. Clutch mech already fitted.

I had a day out, after converting, around the Black Mount and found the range was great for me. Managed any climb that I could with the old setup and never dropped the chain once.


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 5:14 pm
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I've recently gone from M970 converted to 2x10 cranks to 1x10 using Hope retainer and T-Rex.

34 up front and 11-40 at the back and I got up everything I used to on a local ride yesterday - including a short but steep 26% gradient with no run up. (Also been round Cannock a few times without needing the 40T - only FTD and the blue routes though)

Trouble is today I feel like a train has squashed my hips.. 😳

Have got a 32T retainer on order for the front as it will be plenty high geared for the 99% of off road riding I do and should help the legs on hillier terrain.

With a clutch rear mech I haven't dropped the chain once.


 
Posted : 22/04/2014 6:30 pm
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I love the idea about keeping the granny ring and changing manually when needed. I might try that.
The chain will stay on a hard tail much better than a full sus. I'm running 1x8 on a hardtail with a non clutch rear mech and standard chainwheel (with the ramps and pins). And an n-gear jumpstop. Never lost a chain, riding some harsh stuff. The movement of the rear suspension would cause the chain to come off a full sus much easier. I guess that's where a clutch mech would help.
I'm currently building a 1x10 full sus with clutch mech. Just need to buy a narrow-wide front chainring.


 
Posted : 23/04/2014 2:40 am
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3x10 converted to 1x10.
Kept the granny, non clutch mech and n/w chain ring with bash. 11/36 cassette.
Never dropped the chain once.


 
Posted : 23/04/2014 7:22 am