As above really. Have a fox boost valve RP23 shock on a SC Superlight.
Seem to have the shock set right for sag but never get full travel on it. Ive just taken all the air out and it bottoms out with about 10mm ish left to go. Every other bike I’ve ridden the whole thing gets use until the o ring falls off the end – is this normal?
I don’t bottom it out often but if this is where full travel is I’m probably running far to much sag :/

Thanks in advance.

Has it had a service recently ? might be too much lube oil in the air can !. Or if its a 200 x 50 shock, it could have the same outer dimensions as a 200 x 57, which on a 200 x 50 would look like your not getting full travel. I hope that makes sense 😕

Cheers – no it’s not been serviced. It’s a new (ish) frame and shock (6 months old). You’ve lost me on the other bit though !
So is it TFTuned time?

sounds obvious but are you turning pro pedal off for the decents cos its suprising how much difference it makes

Yep pro pedals off – dont use it much tbh.
(might have done the last descent at cwmcarn with pro pedal on and the forks locked out last week mind <idiot>!)

Stating the obvious, but you have checked the chain length at full compression?

You’ve lost me on the other bit though !

Basically, that may be the shock at full travel, ignore the fact that there is some shaft left, it is the internal doofer bits that decide thr travel.

As said, deflate the shock and see how far you can get the suspension to compress – does chain stop it? does the tyre hit the seatpost? any other issues? If no, get on and ride…

Yep – plenty chain to be had. Hadn’t thought of that mind but just checked.

spoke to a couple of ppl who run same shock as you and they also get full travel. suggestions are; let all the air out your shock and move your back wheel to see how far the shock compresses and also check that the pivots arent too tight because this could also stop you from getting full travel

Cool – cheers Matt.
No other obstructions – that’s where the shock seems to bottom out. It rides fine – I just figured it was a bit weird.

Hmmm – I’ll try checking the pivots.

zoolander….on the grey shock shaft (where the ‘O’ ring is), what is length of it ? (only the part where the dia. is the same all along). If it is 57mm, and your bike has a shock travel of 50mm, then you will not get the ‘O’ ring to the end. The shock dimensions 200×50 or 200×57 can be the same dimensions, at full length, but a 200×50 won’t get compress as far as a 200×57. Phew !!! where’S LoCo when you need him 😐

Lol – cheers.
It’s 57
Just had the shock off and it’s deffo the shock that won’t compress further. The rear end of the bike has a way to go. Going to see if I can find out what the shock travel of the frame is – but I’m guessing 50!

Thanks!

On a side note. Is it worth getting the shock pushed for a single pivot such as the superlight? Anyone any experiences?

Er, this is a boost valve shock, which means it has more compression damping further into the stroke to resist bottoming, iirc.
That’s probably why you can’t get full travel

fivespot – Member
zoolander….on the grey shock shaft (where the ‘O’ ring is), what is length of it ? (only the part where the dia. is the same all along). If it is 57mm, and your bike has a shock travel of 50mm, then you will not get the ‘O’ ring to the end. The shock dimensions 200×50 or 200×57 can be the same dimensions, at full length, but a 200×50 won’t get compress as far as a 200×57. Phew !!! where’S LoCo when you need him

Sorry but how can that be even remotely true?

If a shock has a stroke of 50mm and it’s put in the frame then compressed with no air in it, the shock will compress fully.

If a shock has a stroke of 57mm and is put in the very same frame and the air removed then compressed, the shock will compress fully.

The only thing that will stop the longer stroke shock from compressing fully (once all the air is let out) is something hitting the frame and stopping the linkages from attaining full travel i.e. the rear tyre hitting the seat tube.

The O-Ring not being all the way down the shaft may well be caused by the nice new bumpstop in the damper actually doing it’s job and limiting the shock to it’s factory level of stroke.

Ahhh bumpstop in the damper – that would make sense. Cheers

I think that should be fine, it’s a 57mm shaft but the stroke on the frame is 50mm.

steve_b77….Very sorry but Very true.

Been there , had a shock like it :roll

If a shock has a shaft of 57mm, but the stroke is 50mm, then no amount of compression or jumping up & down, will go past 50mm.

The 2 shock dimensions I mentioned can and do look identical on the outside, but have two different travels.

Hate to say it but if I install either my 200x50mm RP3 or a 200x55mm DT Swiss 190SSDL on my FS frame, remove all the air from each I can obtain full compression.

Funnily enough when you remove a shock from a frame, typically you can move the rear triangle all teh way up until something fouls.

If you had fitted my old Fox 200×50 shock and done the same thing, you still would have got full travel “OF 50mm”, but you would still have 7mm of shaft showing, because the shaft was 57mm 🙄

I sold about 800+ used frames and I’ve serviced about the same amount in terms of working.

Every shock had to be compressed to see it they worked and not all of them compress all of the way.

If mojo or fox run out of 50mm shaft shock they will simply run the 57mm ones and the internals for the 50mm stroke shocks.

You have to bare in mind that they have countless thousands of these components and mixing and matching to order is common place, call mojo and ask them and the problem / debate is resolved, or you can continue with enjoying the thread 😉

Fivespot is right. A 200×57 and 200×50 may look identical and will have the same length of exposed shaft, but the 200×50 will only compress by 50mm leaving (in theory) what appears to be 7mm of unused travel. This is also the case on my Yeti ASR5.

hmmm interesting thread – on my five i dont even get it that far i dont think – sag is right, i always thought it was better to not get the o-ring off the end???

is an orange five the same as above?

Occillate Wildly

I have a five and can get full travel. O-ring pops off the end very occasionally on bigger hits.
Was told once that you should use almost all of your travel on your usual trails leaving around 10% of travel for ’emergencies’

dorking – what weight and psi do you use? perhaps im running it abit too hard…

Oscillate

180psi and 95kg with all kit on and full water bladder etc. I do run the rear slightly softer than I should. Helps stops the back end skipping.

im about 66kg and i think run it at about 120psi – obviously being lightweight could be the issue – i dont do massive jumps or anything raddddddd – but i do alot of roll in/drop offs etc….shoud i be getting full end of shaft travel on them?

Oscillate

Sorry, I’m really no techie when it comes to these things. Think that question is better answered by someone more qualified etc.
What I would say though is go to the biggest hit/drop/obstacle you do that uses the most travel on the back and see where the o-ring goes to. If you’re only using two thirds of the travel, then let air out ’till you use most of the travel. Simply put, set the rear end up for the type of riding you do and not what the manual tells you. The sag on mine is a good two thirds. Manual says between a quarter and a third.
If in due course you ride somewhere more rad or you start to go bigger, just add more air.

Oscillate….The 5 shock won’t give the same scenario as above. It has a 190×50 shock, with the 50 being the shock travel, and that is also the shaft length on the 5. Try setting your sag at 15mm (30%), that should put you in the ball park for getting the most out of it 😉

Oscillate

The sag on mine is a good two thirds.

Should have said one third

cheers guys! i guess ill try letting a bit more air out then – im not saying its a bad thing as it is, its plenty of travel and never seems to throw me about – but i guess if i can use 140mm i may as well make the most of it – i dont want it to feel too wallowy though –

also with the the less air in the can will it affect the stiffness of propdeal? as it stands my firm setting on propedal is basically like a lock out – how i like it…reducing the air further, will this also make the firm setting soften and more bob induced?

also with the the less air in the can will it affect the stiffness of propdeal?

I’m assuming you’re running a RP23? If you are, then you can change the stiffness of the propedal from 1-3. I generally have it on 2 as I like a bit of play when climbing over roots etc.