Anyone running the cheap 2.3 wire bead barons on stans flow rims tubeless?
How bout a single ply 2.35 wire bead high roller?

I like to run low pressures (25-30psi) on a hardtail over fairly rocky Peak descents, the beast, jacobs ladder etc. Currently using DH tubes to avoid pinches but was hoping tubeless might save me the weight of the heavy tubes.

I’m new to this tubeless game, beyond shelling out loads on UST tyres it seems to be guess work on the rim/trye combinations!

Haven’t found one yet that doesn’t work

Me neither. But a list of some that have:

Specialized Clutch SX
Folding Kenda Nevegals, Slants, Excavators, Smallblocks and Telonixes, in assorted sizes
Folding Nobby Nic 2.25 and 2.4 Evos
Folding Maxxis Advantage 2.4 EXO, Minion 2.35s, and wire Swampthings
Ehhh think that’s it. Probably forgotten something.

And some that were troublesome but went, eventually- Conti Rubber Queen and Baron. Both took forever to seal and needed some wee patches. Worth it though in the case of the Baron as it’s superb for mud. I think you could get some of these that will just never seal properly though.

If in doubt, there’s always tubeless ready- I’ve used assorted Specialized, Bonty and WTB tubeless readies, they’ve all mounted effortlessly and sealed immediately. The WTB ones had a weight penalty though, the Specialized ones would still be good if you ran tubes.

Non UST Conti’s are VERY porous, just so you know. They can be a nightmare to get to stay up.

Maxxis seem to work very well in tubeless setups, relatively easy to seal (well, compared to other non UST tyres), and they usually seal without too much sealant.

Haven’t tried either of the two you mention, but the kevlar bead High Rollers (2.35 SP) work fine. I think there’s a list of known good combinations on the Stans website somewhere.

Yeah I’ve used Single Ply kevlar hire rollers and they worked OK. Took a while to seal (they kept losing pressure between rides, for the first month I was pumping them up before each ride but they stayed up for the whole ride), but now they’re perfect. I’ve only tried this on the front, I’m about to try it as a rear tyre too.

I’ve also used Nobby Nics Tubeless ready snakeskin Evo tyres which went up quickly and easily, and didn’t lose any pressure the way the high rollers did, although I don’t rate those for pinch protection (I’m ready to try something else on the rear).

Have used single ply 2.35 High Rollers, Conti Rubber Queen 2.2, Mountain King II 2.2 and Vertical 2.3. All of them have been the cheapest wire bead versions and ran them around 30-35psi.

Stans are designed to work with non-UST tubeless tyres, so that’ll be Maxxis LUST, Bontrager Tubeless Ready etc. Cheaper and lighter, but still designed to be run tubeless with sealant.

I gave up with non tubeless Nobby Nics as they were too porous, but excellent results with an old Kenda Blue Groove.

Garden variety Maxxis Ignitors work fine.

Happily running bog standard folding ADvantages on mine

Bontrager XR4s go up really easily on Flows – I saw some 2012 TLR 2.35s secondhand on here which would be perfect for your riding, if they fit in your frame!

Bonty TLRs all work great, had lots. XR4s are good all rounders.

i ran non-ust nobby nics on my crests and they went up first time with no need for an air-compressor. they sealed beautifully, never flatted and even after 6 months of non-movement, still had good air in the them!

my yeti is running non-ust rocket ron and racing ralph. they both went on easily (on arch ex) without need of a compressor, but they are quite porous, so i’m having to work hard to get all the pin-holes sealed up…. i am getting there though.

Cointi rubber Queens 2.2
Conti RaceKing Race Ready 2.4
Hutchinson Cougar
Hutchinson Toro
Maxxis Crossmark

Agree that Rubber Queens sometimes take a while for the sidewalls to stop getting the pinpricks of sealant coming through, but add bait more sealant than normal and ride hard :).

I have never seen anybody try to get a wire beaded tyre to tun tubeless before , would be interested to know if the OP has any success .

I’ve tubelessed my wire bead Swampthings – the 42a was ok (softer rubber equals more flexible carcass and better sealing bead), the 60a was a nightmare and only a ghetto tubeless air tank at 80psi got it to seal. For the amount of hassle I’d rather use any of the Bontrager TLR or Specialized 2bliss range – usually up first time with a track pump!

Consensus seems to be:
UST might not be worth the money,
Tubeless ready LUST make things a bit easier,
Most ‘standard’ tyres people use are kevlar bead/folding,
Wire bead has been used successfully but not by many,
Continental have porous tyre walls but have worked…

Having bought the wheels I can’t afford the rim strip or sealant yet! I’ll update when I’ve tried to fit with well used my current wire bead Conti Baron and my wire bead single ply Minion DH.

Fingers crossed and thanks for the advice!

*Tubeless ready or LUST

I have only tried tubless ready Nobby Nics on my Stans rims. They took a while to seal properly due to porous sidewalls and after a couple of rides small nicks in sidewalls made me give up and put tubes in them. Never had a problem with UST version so will not be buying any more TR tyres.

I find the opposite. wire bead maxxis normal tyres have worked fine for me (minions and highrollers of various sizes and compounds) but I have found that folding bead, non UST maxxis are prone to exploding off the rear rim with a huge bang after a heavy landing

ust tyres all the way – fit and forget.

As far as UST goes, there’s no point to them for me but other folks might find them useful. It’s just the same as with dualplies- people who need them, need them, so it’s good that they exist but they shouldn’t be the default option

Make youself a ghetto tubeless inflator with a coke bottle – wish I’d done the same two years ago when I first went tubeless, it saves SO much time!

im running the same as the OP and i had a couple of occasions where the tyre blew off the rim first few rides but i then put an extra layer of rim tape in and the problem is solved!

I’m running some steel bead single ply 2.35 high rollers on my flow’s with no problems. Once inflated took just a few turns for the to seal fully.

Excuse my ignorance, but if you use normal non UST tyres with Stans rims, do you need the rim tape, or just the yellow tape to seal the spoke bed?

Just the yellow tape, regardless of which tyre.

Currently using a single ply ST minnion on the front and a dual ply high roller on the back. Flows, Stans yellow tape and fluid.

Nics/Ralphs/High Rollers/Ardents here on Flows. Never had any air burp out in about 3 years of tubeless usage on Yellow Tape.

2.35″ High Roller Folding = £32 / 690g
2.35″ High Roller LUST = £40 / 890g

I use absolutely sod all fluid (like 50ml), and don’t top it up, the tyre tread/carcass goes before it dries out.

Steel bead, single ply maxxis work an absolute treat, zero problems.

Kevlar bead, non tubeless is a bit iffy, managed to blow the tyre off the rim a couple of times letting the back end hang out.

failing that, go to edinburgh cycle co-op, get some spec 2bliss tyres. You get to try for 3 month, if you don’t like, you can return. I think the tyres are 26.99 each for folding tubeless ready, go up real easy.

Thanks guys. My preferred tyre is the Minion single ply. I normally get the kevlar folding as they are a bit lighter and slightly less prone to pinch flats. Should I be going with the wire bead for tubeless with Flows? There seems to be mixed opinions on whether they are fine or iffy

Wire bead comes off the rim less easily than a folding kevlar bead, that conclusion is from simple rational thought and experience. So less prone to “burping”.

I also find wire beads easier to inflate than kevlar too, wire bead is already in a roundish shape, the kevlar normally has kinks from being packaged.

I must also say, tubeless specific tyres are easier to install and inflate than non tubeless. I have however done many tubeless fits with non-tubeless maxxis tyres with resounding success, with a track pump, just takes a little patience.

I just fitted folding High Roller 2s 60a EXO to my Flows, tube in overnight, remove tube breaking just one bead, valve core removed went up no trouble with a track pump didn’t even have to use soapy water. Don’t understand the problems people have! However always used Maxxis tyres without issue.

Thanks guys. My preferred tyre is the Minion single ply. I normally get the kevlar folding as they are a bit lighter and slightly less prone to pinch flats. Should I be going with the wire bead for tubeless with Flows? There seems to be mixed opinions on whether they are fine or iffy

I actually found my folding HIgh Roller 2s went up easier than the previous folding single ply High Rollers! I think the key with Flows is taking the valve core out as you can get more air in quicker!

Wire bead 2.35 High Rollers here. I found the super-tacky required a spot more washing up liquid as the stickier rubber was more difficult to get to move on the spoke bed to get seated.

I use a ghetto coke bottle tubeless bong to get the bead seated.

Hmm, seems to be conflicting tales, but on balance will probably go with the wire bead. Definitely agree with the point about the folding jobs having kinks from being folded for a while, and good point about the wire beads being less likely to come off the rim. They are also cheaper, but heavier than the folding jobs

Anyone running the cheap 2.3 wire bead barons on stans flow rims tubeless?

Meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 🙂

no problems – ran them with a tube for a bit to get them used to the rim, then inflated them fine. Just running yellow tape and stans valve, with some JRA wheelmilk.

Dave

alfabus, what are the bars you have on that bike?

Nobby Nic 2.4 Evo , the non tubeless version. Very cheap from a German website

sorry to hijack. but what do you think to the flows? im lookin at new wheels,and these are top of the list atm

pallymanz- they’re excellent IMO. Not as strong as your 721s etc- they’re a bit softer- but then they’re a fair chunk lighter and they’re still pretty damn strong. Wide, light, strong and tubeless ready- not much more to ask of ’em really.

deanfbm – Member

Wire bead comes off the rim less easily than a folding kevlar bead, that conclusion is from simple rational thought and experience.

Depends entirely on the tyre not the bead! I’ve had wire beads that come off very easily, and kevlars that are as tight as a very tight thing.