so, just got back from 2 weeks in BC (3 days on the shore, 2 in silverstar, 2 in sun peaks, then a week in whistler), which was ace, except 2 days before the end I snapped the swingarm on my old gemini in a big way. Upon closer inspection, there is also a big crack round the headtube (lucky it didn’t go there tbh, would have hurt a lot more). So its new frame time. I’d like to keep as much of my current build kit as possible, so I need

onepointfive headtube (I’m running domain 180mm forks)
135x10mm back end (ie standard qr. I’m running old saint, so anything with bolt-through would mean a new wheel + rear mech etc)
6″ travel, or thereabouts. Not interested in a full dh rig with 10+”, but could be happy with something shorter (4-5″) if it ticked the other boxes
needs to come in at least a 17″ seatube, which instantly knocks all transitions, dmr bolt, scott voltage etc out the window, as they seem to think tall riders can make do on a 15″ frame. I’m 6’3, occasionally want to ride around the trails, and 17 is the smallest I can go whilst still developing some pedal power whilst seated. For the same reason I also want an uninterrupted seattube, at least for most of the length (not bothered by a little kink at the bottom, but something with 3 inches of tube then a shock is a no-no)
needs to be strong. Prior to snapping the cannondale, I snapped 3 transition prestons. I’m not overly heavy (13.5 stone or so) but I ride with a heavy pack, and I’m not what you’d call delicate.

I ride a bit of everything. The gemini did 2 trips to BC, one to Morzine, the mega, the sdw in a day, local singletrack and just about everything in between. it was a 45lb build, so I’m not remotely fussed by the weight of the new frame (even something welter-weight would still build up at 40lbs with the kit I’ll be putting on it, so no point compromising strength in my opinion). I never race DH (the one mega excluded) and I’m after something I can launch off some big jumps\big drops and have fun on, rather than whats necessarily quickest. I like the idea of single pivot, as I’m pretty lazy when it comes to maintenance.

Until it snapped, I was happy with the gemini, but they stopped making them ages ago, so I think its going to be hard to get hold of one now thats not on its last legs.

So far, a new-shape bullet seems to tick all the boxes as well as anything else can, but I don’t pay much attention to bikes so I’ve probably not thought of loads of other bikes.

If you are the original owner, then Cannondale should warranty the frame.

Failing that, if you like the Gemini, then you couldn’t go too far wrong with a new Bullit and it ticks all the boxes.

Edit – I didn’t notice the very last sentence so didn’t notice that the Bullit is already on the list.

If you are the original owner, then Cannondale should warranty the frame.

Depends on the age, as 04 and newer, only had a limited warrenty (it was “life time” previous to that).

EDIT: If you wanted to, it wouldn’t be impossible to get another STD version Gemini (QR, not the bolt thru DH version) as there seemingly worth bugger all. I kept mine (very light use) rather than sell it for nowt though.

UK warranty sucks then. It’s lifetime over here.

its an 03 but I’m not the original owner. I might drop them an email, just to see what they say (I’m not remotely fussed that it snapped. 4 years of abuse under me is more than I’ve seen any frame survive, and this did 4 years of service under someone else as well).

It was pretty knackered in lots of ways. The front triangle had worn where the pivot went through, so it had about 1cm of play in the rear wheel (which was tight to the swingarm) the day it snapped, plus the swingarm snapped, plus I think if that hadn’t gone, the headtube/downtube weld would have, within 5 or 6 more runs (the crack there is about 50% of the way round the weld). It was only £280 4 years ago, with a dhx5 shock that still works fine 🙂

any other suggestions?

heh, well I emailed them, but it looks like there was a recall for my frame for the headtube problem once upon a time anyway..

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.mountain-bike/browse_thread/thread/91f97e02e92123f1/12025b79b17aa7e1?pli=1

don’t limit yourself to single pivot just because of maintenance, get a non-single pivot which doesn’t require too much maintenance…

such as? I do like the look of the new Specialized Status but I’m not sure if/when it’ll eventually make it over here, and if it’ll be frame only if it does..

Nukeproof mega?
can run your 180mm forks on the front with the 44mm internal headset cups?
I think comes with various backends so can run a standard QR – although not totally sure about that?

cheers for the suggestion. had a look and it does seem to tick most of the boxes – Can’t find anything about the different dropouts though, and I’m a little concerned it’s aimed at the AM side of the market a little too far (air shock as standard and a fairly light weight) – given my habbit of going through frames I wonder if its going to be a little flimsey?

Morewood might be worth a look

which instantly knocks all transitions

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SC Nomad? Seems to tick all your boxes. Plenty of them used on the Scottish downhill series so plenty tough enough. If you’ve got the cash the Nomad carbon is meant to be even tougher

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transition have made the odd decision to only supply their play frames in a 15″ size, so useless for pedalling.

morewood would be good (like the zama) but its a tapered headtube (grr) so a no-go with my forks 🙁

the nomad is an interesting shout – about £800 more than the bullet, and I’m not sure it really gives much more (the vpp has some benefits, but that much??)

eh? what transition you looking at?

yeah? WTF covert, bottlerocket, blindside, and all the rest come in small med large, both freeridey play frames?

The little bmxey type things for slopestyle (top and DOUBLE) are in regular and long but that’s because ss riders all like really small frames (at least everyone who wins does)

TR450, TR250, blindside and bottlerocket all only come in one frame size (seattube length) – they have different reaches but not different lenght seattubes.

the blindside of them is actually a 17 (thought it was a 16) but tapered heattube gets me again :S

Sell your forks, buy some 2nd hand ones. Buying a frame based on the steerer tube diamter of your current forks seems a bit daft. Theres some 180mm marzocchi 66’s for sale in the classifieds for £170. They have a 1 & 1/8th steerer aswell.

thing is, my forks are pretty much brand new (3 months old) and i’m pretty pleased with them. They’re probably only worth the same as those 66s (which will, by comparison, be shagged) due to the 1.5 headtube. getting new forks would mean a new headset, stem etc so starts to add up

a piece of me also wants to snub the people shifting out tapered headtubes as it was a daft idea (no stronger, no lighter than 1.5) to start with. Just like those 142.5 back ends..

Started reading your first post and thinking ‘SC Bullit’ but it seems you’ve come to the same conclusion.

Lovely bikes…

Anyone tried the Transition Blindside? How does it compare to the Bullit?

Devinci Frantik?

I think the earlier morewood shova came with a 1.5 headtube. Would be good if you dont mind buying 2nd hand.

Orange Alpine or Patriot? 160mm travel, single pivot, coil or air, proper seat tube.

came across the frantik when looking at the freeborne website (at the mythic wildcard, which could be a goer) but its a 150mm rear end 🙁

david – you’re right, the shova LT from ’08 was a 1.5. I’ll see if i can find one..

The orange options don’t have a onepointfive headtube, I think they were all 1 1/8 until they went tapered?

One of these: http://www.freeborn.co.uk/mythic-rune-frame-sale-1

I’ve just come from an 06 (old) bullit to a small covert, and I am blown away, it does everything a bullit does, and climbs and my build is 32lbs with halo freedom disc wheels, van 36’s, codes, and 203mm discs. (Ok I have carbon bars and cranks and “only” 2.35 single ply tyres). But jumps drops and cornering are as good as and in some ways betterer than the bullit, and it bloody climbs.

i think I’d snap a rune or a covert – the gemini is the 4th frame I’ve snapped (bent a further 3), and was a beefier frame than either of them?

just found out the old patriot 7+ was a 1.5 so that might work..

Toys19 – out of interest, what shocks were on the bullet and the covert? I’m starting to hear that a shock is more important than a frame, once your geo etc is good

I know someone selling their Patriot 7+, size 18″ I think.

Pretty much original spec, and not ridden that much since new. Kids got in the way IIRC.

Yes, I forgot about the patriot, I used to have one. Rode a bit funny, jumped quite nicely though. The 5th element shock broke and I think this was a common problem with them. If the DHX off your gemini works ok then you could fit that. If its a shorter i2i then it would slacken it and lower it quite nicely.

Id probably go for a morewood if you can find one though.

If you’re open to a 2nd hand bike, there have been a few Turner Highlines on ebay recently.

or.. a Knolly Delirium

If you have a 1.5 steerer what about a bottlerocket love mine and it will go up hill with a little effor – keeping me fitter.

canyon torque?

http://www.canyon.com/_en/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=2152

http://www.canyon.com/_uk/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=2095

bullits (had two) had 5th element, which I loved, also tried a recent van r which was easily as good as the 5th without any of the adjustment.

Covert has fox rp23 which is very good, except I find that with correct sag (anmd hence small bump sensitvity) I blow through the travel, it doenst feel like bottoms but the rubber band is always at the bottom after any ride, and it feels a bit squidgy on bigger landings (ie 2 ft rather than my usual 12 inches). I am fat bastard 90kg, so I ahve ordered the smaller volume can at 23 quid from mojo to see if I cant ramp the pressure up faster. Failing that a Van rc is on the cards. But the bike rides ace and I feel dead confident on it with drops and jumps, which I aprtly put down tot he shock.. I think my psyche is coil so I keep looking for reasons to bin the air shock..

I’m riding a 2004 Bullit at the minute. Really nice bike but not sure how it compares as it’s my first full sus. It does feel a bit flexy on the rear end but I’m not sure whether that’s actually flex or just the suspension bouncing around! Anyway it performed very well at the last Hopton uplift I did and will be taking it to Woburn tomorrow. And it’s coming to Whistler with me in August 🙂

On paper it looks a bit steep (about 68/69 HA I think) but with 180mm older boxxers it feels plenty slack to me. And they’re meant to be bombproof.

designed for 180 totems, so I reckon the boxxers will be really good.

thanks for the help guys. I now have a few more options which is basically what I wanted! Shortlist is now :

Bullit
moorwood Shova LT (2008) (rare)
Patriot 7+ (2008 I think)
Turner highline (rare)
knolly delerium (rare)
mythic wildcard (biggest is a 16″)
bottlerocket (biggest is a 16.5″, this years isn’t a onepointfive and only comes in a 16″)
blindside (probably a bit big at 8″ rear travel, newest one isn’t a onepointfive)

bottlerocker comes in 3 sizes! cockpit is most important not how long a seat tube is

Highline has a 150mm rear axle, does it not?

Try the Patriot. I got one as a general bash-it-every-which-way-in-The-Alps bike and it’s been absolutely brilliant.

The Patriot will be either a 2004 or a 2005. Im sure the 08’s were 1 & 1/8th inch.

Heres mine getting sick to the power of zero