I’ve got the spacers on the smallest side, and the block slid all the way to the bottom of the slot. They’re still too far up for the rim, and the arms are sticking out way further than they should be. I was expecting a little of these issues, as the rims are wide Maviic module 4s, but I don’t get the diameter issue? There’s close to an inch of adjustment in the slot, and rims that would work with these would be an inch bigger and not 700c.

Unless canti bosses were put in a different position in 1987? (frame made then)

Or I’ve picked up some brakes that are made for a weird setup?

Any ideas?

Cantis id guess. 87 was pre v-brakes iirc :0)

87 was defo pre v brakes. They didn’t turn up till mid 90s I would guess?

can you get offset pads ?

1987 could even be U Brakes, the bosses although looking like canti bosses are in a different position. What frame is it ?.

seems you can get offset pad holders

There’s a strange cantilever std that was around for a while. maybe Weinmann (spell) or Mafac style cantilvers would fit, don’t know if FroggLeggs would.

27 x 11/4 frame/fork?

Just checked a thing. Which was the only obvious thing to check next. Bloody 27in rims!

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/754363-mavic-650w-rim-pictures.html

Edit. No they aren’t. 650w is an anodising treatment of Mavic’s. 28 – 622 tyres.

Maybe to be used with a cam-roller brake?

Thanks all for the input. Thought I’d solved it there. On the plus side I don’t need new wheels.

Cable pull aside, I thought vs and cantis were interchangeable, all the “best canti/touring/cx brake” threads I read seemed to suggest that. Nothing about being stuck with what your brake post/boss position dictated?

I’ve solved a similar problem with cartridge brake shoes that were much slimmer.
a bit like these

oops these are nut-bolt versions

I still think that bike was intended to be used with 27″ rims (ETRO 630mm).

Cantis and V brakes use the same stud positioning. U-brakes and roller cams use different bosses in different positions.

Some cantis may allow more flexibility re pad positioning, but that looks to me like you ideally need bigger rims.

Bike came with 700c wheels, apparently.

Stranger and stranger.

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/870030-raleigh-randonneur-531-what-max-size-tires.html

The brakes were crazy cheap on on-one, so maybe they’re the problem! Maybe they’re for running 700c rims on 650b frames?

It looks to me like that fork is very narrow. If you’ve got a wider than normal rim in there that might exaggerate the narrowness.

Iirc Some of the designs of cantilever prevalent in the mid 80s to early 90s would have been more suited to such a narrow gap.

When Vs were first in widespread use c. 1995 there didn’t iirc really seem to be any conception of them going onto narrower forked touring and utility frames and if I understand you right that’s an ’87 bike.

I have an early 90s hybrid I have retrofitted v’s too. They’re awkward on that but I did just get them in with arms set a bit wide.

Morning All! I’ve got the steel rule out.

Fork dropout centre to canti boss centre is 290mm ish at the front. Spacing is 60mm across the bosses. At the back it gets more exciting, 70mm across the bosses, and 270mm from the dropouts. The Mini Vs will just about work with the wide spacers inboard and the block right at the top of the slot. Even then, the pad will be at a slight angle to the rim until it’s worn a bit.

WTAF? Who would build a bike so that brakes that fit one end don’t work at the other end?

And my return key has stopped working.

Edited for paragraphs after restarting pooter. Return key now working.

Gawd, what have I set in motion (or not).

Perhaps it’s a cursed frame or something…

what have I set in motion (or not).

It’ll go into motion fine. It’s the stopping that may be a problem. 😉

I had another thought… can you get some long drop dual pivots that have a bolt through rather than recessed Allen bolt thing that’ll fit the top of those forks?

sjs cycles nut fitting long drop calipers

Something like those linked.

Not suggesting that the STW membership is inadequate in its technical understanding but if you ask on the CUK (CTC to most of us) you may well get the answer. Someone there will tell you that by using the right grease at 12:07 am will solve the problem. Probably Brucey.

I think it’s just the case the dropout to boss spacing is too long on the front, add be to short on the front. I might get the front to work with narrower pads, and back works now, but with 3mm clearance from the noodle boot to the tyre, and that’s only 28mm with no mudguard. I’ll try some CX50s on the back.

Oh, and teasel, it’s all good! Just need to get the brakes sorted and the BB reamed and well be good for another 30 years of life!

Excellent! That’s what I wanted to read.

Randonneur – plucked from the clutches of death!

🙂

Yup, can’t wait to ride it! At least it looks like a bike, that’s progress, hey?

Apologies for the almost unreadable posts earlier. Typing on the phone, hadn’t noticed all the autocorrects

I think it’s just the case the dropout to boss spacing is too long on the front, add too short on the front. I might get the front brake to work with narrower pads. The back brake works now, but with only 3mm clearance from the noodle boot to the tyre, and that’s with only 28mm tyre and no mudguard. I was hoping for 35c at least plus a guard. I’ll try some CX50s on the back.

Lots of old road frames have canti bosses that work great with cantis, which were more e adjustable than vs, this is one of them.

al, does that explain the different position at front v rear?

I can see that having the bosses further towards the rim gives you more mechanical advantage at the front, but why not do that at the back as well?

pic of the back:

Wup

and wup

Only shame (apart from having spent £15 on the Tektros) is having to swap these two back over.

Thanks all for the hints, tips and facts. Just the BB reaming and the http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/possibly-a-stupid-cassettefreehubdremel to go!

Nice job and imo much more in keeping with the general traditional tourer aesthetic of the bike.

Bars wrapped last night, took it for a spin up the orad and back affter this morning’s mtb ride.

Lovely! Very smooth indeed. I can see this being great for long days in the saddle. Started looking for audaxes near me cos I can’t not with this, can I?

http://www.aukweb.net/events/detail/15-98/ 😀 Just up the road, I can ride to the start.

Huge thanks to teasel, who rescued this frame from being binned years ago, too big for him, but too good to see go to waste. He held onto it until some semi-deserving (not sure about this part? 😕 😀 ) suitably-heighted person came looking for it, I came along with a “my frame’s bust” post on here, and he very kindly gave it to me.

Top chap, thanks again, it will be cherished!