£120* for a tyre! I’m sory I thought this was a bike shop not a joke shop!

Seeing as most of the time Pro4/GP4000/Utremo can be had for £50/pair, is it worth the extra weight** and cost of tubeless?

*yes, each! Hutchinson do a comparatively cheep £45/tyre, but still…..

**about 50g more than a tyre+50g tube, plus about 40g of sealent adds half a lb over the bike. Yes I could just go on a diet and have a poo, but thats not the point.

£120* for a tyre! I’m sory I thought this was a bike shop not a joke shop!

Really? CRC have them for £49 an end (which I still concede is expensive…). Which tyres were you looking at?

Andy

Seem to be very little choice on tubeless road tyres. Have some tubeless rims for my roadbike (was not the reason I bought them) but run them with tubes as it’s cheaper and you get a better choice of tyre.

I think you can get those for £35.

Tempted to try just putting in sealant in mine. You can hear the tyres popping as they seat in

What on earth is wrong with the Hutchison ones? You seem to be moaning that a £120 tire exists?

And WTF is ** about? EDIT it’s about ride quality not weight.

Tempted to try just putting in sealant in mine. You can hear the tyres popping as they seat in

Report back if this works – I understand that the reason you need special tyres is because kevlar beads stretch under the pressure and blow off without a tube pressing the bead home.

Having said that, I’ve heard of people using wire bead tyres (eg. Schwalbe Marathons) to some success.

Andy

Just buy tubs, I’ve got some Conti Olympics you can have for £200 an end 😀

Report back if this works

I will, I need some valves though. When I let the tyres down they seem almost bonded to the sides.

Really? CRC have them for £49 an end (which I still concede is expensive…). Which tyres were you looking at?

Just the maxxis ones that came up first in google. Hutchinson seemed to be the only other manufacturer making them. Just wondering as after spending a wedge on lightening the wheels I’d be loath to spend even more money to add on 100g to each wheel compared to GP4000+supersonic tubes and pay £50 more for the privelage.

Like I said, it’s not about the weight (which has been disproved as significant in terms of performance anyway).

You did look into this before buying the wheels, yes? 😉

I used the tubed version of the Fusion and find them really good. Last really well for a ‘race’ tyre.

Surely at this point you just go out an buy tubs instead of clinchers, no?

I’ve got tubeless Hutchinson Intensives on my commuter. Works well as the pressure is lower – 50psi.

On the road race bike, running Fusion 3s. Not entirely convinced. They do seal up ok. But get a larger puncture or cut and the sealant struggles with the higher pressure. It doesn’t seem to cope with anything above 70 so you end up having to get the liquid out to patch the tyre.

I once tried the home-made variety with Conti Gatorskins or something like that. Sealed up ok, but blew off the rim (into my face and ears) at 40psi.

tubs on a clincher rim?

Hutchinson seemed to be the only other manufacturer making them

AFAIK Hutchinson also make the Specialized and Bonty road tubeless tyres too, and they invented the ‘standard’. I wouldn’t be surprised if they had a hand in the Maxxis ones.

Andy

tubs on a clincher rim?

Well, no, obviously 😀

Tubeless clinchers seem a compromise in the pursuit of ‘ride quality’ that has a solution (albeit equally as expensive) tried and tested. Not sure I’d really like to pump something up to 100+ psi reliant on a dodgy fitting bead and a splosh of gloopy glue inside .

Well, to me as a tubeless user, it seems tubs are more compromised, mine are less hassle and many are reporting better ride quality (tho that is no doubt marginal and subjective).

Without wanting to rehash the arguments made about MTB tubeless, tubeless road tyres should give a suppler ride, as the tyre casing alone is more compliant than tyre + tube. They’ve got a special bead to avoid blow offs, and if you have a look at the NoTubes guidance on same it says not to use non-Road Tubeless tyres without tubes.

Tubs are great, I am sure. Provided you are followed on your rides by a yellow Skoda with a roof-rack full of spare wheels.

Andy

You did look into this before buying the wheels, yes?

and Stans rims were the lightest, and I didn’t really want aero wheels, just some nicer* ones than the shimano’s I was using. Tubeless would have been a benifit, but probably not enough to justify the cost.

*de-stickered the stans rims though, who does thier grafics, a five year old?

Tempted to buy bits for some clinchers now though…….really shouldn’t though as I’ve already got a pair of MTB wheels and road wheels to build in the kitchen! I’ll be bored by the time I get arround to a 3rd pair!

I’ve been on road tubeless for over a year now. Big fan.

I only run tubes on my commuter, as there isn’t a tubeless road tyre available in 28mm.

I’ve run Atom, Fusion2, Fusion3 and Intensives. All good but the Atoms wore quickly and weren’t much lighter than the Fusions.

Been using some Hutchison atoms on some ultegra wheels tubeless on the winter bike, trouble free but I can say I can tell that much difference to running the same wheels with tubes, but I really need to drop the pressure’s a bit. I’m on the second set of atom’s, but they are not really a tyre for every day use. I didn’t really intend to go tubless, but I got the ultegra’s at a bargain price for winter so thought I’d give it a blast and to be fair the ultegra’s aren’t the lightest wheels and they are attached to a pretty sturdy alu frame so I may not be getting the most out of the ‘tubless effect’. No issues with punctures, but at 67kg it has not really been an issue for me with tubes either. I’d certainly consider tubless for a set of race wheels when I next need a pair as choice should have expanded a bit by then.