Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
  • Running a 2nd pair of wheels
  • iain1775
    Free Member

    Recently bought a cyclocross bike which will be used for commuting during the week and more cross type rides locally every other weekend, as well as weekday evenings
    The cyclocross tyres wear down pretty quick on the road during my commute so Ive swopped for some proper road slicks for the time being
    Im thinking though that changing tyres before I can go for a ride is a bit of a pain so I might get some spare wheels that I can then just swop between the two
    will be running different cassettes on each, what about chain and sprocket wear, jumping gears etc, is this likely to be an issue?
    likewise rear derailler set up?
    Also what about the cantilever brakes, assuming the 2nd wheels are not identical (rim width) to the existing ones, might I have to fiddle with brake set up each time?
    All little things I know but might it just be easier to swop tyres over occasionally?
    whats peoples thoughts?
    Exisitng wheels are Bontrager Race Lights, Im possibly looking at some Shimano RS10’s (I think)

    RealMan
    Free Member

    All little things I know but might it just be easier to swop tyres over occasionally?

    This. And cheaper.

    theotherjonv
    Full Member

    I did it on my CX. Still have the spare wheels if you’re interested; nothing flash but they worked.

    I swapped cassettes each time which is a 2 min job – swapping road tyres was a right pita in comparison.

    Never had any issues therefore with chain wear / derailleur fitting, etc., as the drivetrain remained a single set. The only ‘issue’ was rim width which in my case wasn’t an issue as the rims were the same width +/- to not make a difference. I don’t think road wheels vary as much as MTB ones anyway.

    aracer
    Free Member

    will be running different cassettes on each, what about chain and sprocket wear, jumping gears etc, is this likely to be an issue?
    likewise rear derailler set up?
    Also what about the cantilever brakes, assuming the 2nd wheels are not identical (rim width) to the existing ones, might I have to fiddle with brake set up each time?

    Provided you look after your drivetrain and change your chain before it gets too worn and start wearing the sprockets (which is sooner than most on here change theirs) jumping gears shouldn’t be a problem. I’ve run multiple different wheelsets on several of my bikes and yet to have any issues with derailler adjustment.

    If you’re looking at road race wheels (which appears to be the case) then rim width is fairly standard.

    might it just be easier to swop tyres over occasionally?

    Maybe cheaper, not easier.

    iain1775
    Free Member

    yeah changing tyres is a right pita
    these –
    http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop/Wheels/Road+Wheels/Factory+Road+Wheels/Shimano+RS10+Wheels+-+Pair_1458.htm
    worth it? Seems very cheap compared to elsewhere
    theotherjonv – email me details pics and a price

    nick3216
    Free Member

    used to have a spare pair of wheels/slicks for my cx bike. much easier than changing tyres.

    iainc
    Full Member

    planet x

    were what was recommended to me on here over the Shimano ones

    theotherjonv
    Full Member

    They are Rigida Flyer rims on no name hubs; only bought them as spares for occasional road commutes and have probably less than 300 miles on them following a change at work. Wouldn’t be asking much, just enough to cover postage and a little bit more – no longer have the bike they belonged to so all they do is clutter the garage.

    Can do photos tomorrow if interested, be looking for around £45 posted?

    perthmtb
    Free Member

    Did the same with my hybrid for a couple of years – one set of wheels for road use with slicks & a road cassette, another for off road with nobblies and a mountain cassette. Width of rim shouldn’t be a problem if they’re anywhere close to each other – just have the brakes adjusted so they are v. close to the wide ones, and you’ll have a bit more travel on the narrower ones. Likewise, rear mech and cassette won’t be a problem unless you’re running very different ranges and have a shadow rear – which needs to be adjusted close to the sprockets for best shifting. Thats why I stayed with a ‘normal’ rear on that bike.

    I had identical wheels (Mavic 319 on deore hubs), but the dishing was a couple of mm offcentre on both rear wheels – but to different sides! Had to adjust so they were both perfectly centred as otherwise I’d need to adjust brakes each time I changed wheel. Oh, and remember another wheel magnet and to setup the two different circumferences in your computer…

    coatesy
    Free Member

    Did something similar many years ago, it was a slippery slope that eventually led to thinking it’d be even easier (read it’s still too much bother swapping wheels)to building another bike.Welcome to the singletrackworld of multiple bike ownership.

    iain1775
    Free Member

    Coatsey
    I already have 3 mountain bikes, the cx bike, and a unicycle 😉

    stumpy01
    Full Member

    I do this with my Inbred, which I use for commuting, road riding, turbo trainering and off-roading.

    After almost completely wearing down a rear Speed King on a road ride, I decided I should get a cheap second set of wheels for the road.
    I can’t comment on the brakes, but I have had no problem whatsoever with gear/cassette/chain wear misalignment. And I reckon my distance ratio is something like 10:1 road to off-road on the Inbred as I generally use the full sus off-road.

    I was thinking of getting 2 chains when it came to replacing the current one – one for the road & one for off-road. But to be honest, I am not sure it is worth it, based on the current performance.
    I guess that as long as your drivetrain is clean, the road wear is so minimal that it doesn’t impact on misalignment due to wear. Maybe.

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