As above really. What's the best bodge to loose the bar mounted lever and cable, whilst keeping the lever on the fork crown engaged?

Why would you want to keep it engaged?

Just fit the proper crown mounted dial like this –

https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B1AoGIWBz4H1YWNhYWRkODYtNzRiNi00YTA1LTlmMjctNmQzOWQwMDdiZGFl&hl=en

And then you can still turn it on and off. 🙂

Kits in stock here 😉

if you want to keep it engaged (i presume so the floodgate decides when to activate the suspension).

If you want to try it, the easiest way would be to remove the lever from the bars, remove the cable, rout the cable through the ferrule on the fork crown, pulling the metal bit at the end of the cable tight up to it, then clamp the cable in the knob on the top of the crown with the lockout operated.

Thanks all. don't want to have lock-out fully on, just like a little compression damping to stop fork dive and like to just get on with riding rather than Knob twiddling.

I have a PUSHED fox vanilla 32 that I have set up like this, never bother touching lever, works fine for everything, no diving, hardly any bob to worry about and keeps bike stable whilst still dealing fine with the bumps. [Pushed float r out back, again no levers to play with].

Prob just fit crown mounted lever seeing as it is only £22

You can just take the spring out from the Motion control (20 min job including oil change and checking seals), I have just kept the existing knob which seems to work fine.