Raceface Narrow Wide Users – General Question

Ok,

Just taken delivery of my NW ring and I wanted a bit of fitment advice.

I believe the rings are revesible with different graphics either side.

The side with all the ring info, i.e. NW, 104BCD, 32 etc has slightly recessed bolts holes where as the other side with the lairy Raceface graphics aren’t recessed, does it make a difference which way you mount the ring?

I guess this will only make a few MM difference but is one way better than the other to get a slightly better chain line?

Any advice would be helpful!

Thanks.

Endurokid

Mine would only fit with the lairy graphics facing outwards. It is designed to be run this way hence the recess for the bolts to fit, but I have seen a pic/report somewhere of it being run the other way around.

Doh!

That would make sense!!

Cheers

No one sees the lairy graphics when it’s caked in mud

I have mine mounted with the lairy graphics hidden on the inside, they are hideous. It works absolutely fine for me like that.

If you are running a chain device then depending on the device you can only run the ring with the lairy graphics showing, the other side has the counter sunk area which will stop the bolts hitting off the chain device, if you’re not running a chain device then you can have the ring ether way as the bolts will have nothing to hit off, it shouldn’t make any difference to the chain line

I have 30t can only be mounted one way, graphics facing outwards.

I run my one in the middle ring position with recesses pointing towards the frame and a bash guard, works fine.

Yep had the same problem, so turned it round works fine.

Cheers everyone, interesting to hear different opinions.

I’ve just removed the taco and lower roller from my E13 LG1 guide and was going to run the top guide only.

Even though I’ll be running an XO short cage clutch mech with the NW ring I’m not 100% confident that I won’t drop the chain, or should I just remove the guide all together?

Is this combo really that good at chain retention?

I have run mine both ways around – initially with lairy graphics on the inside to accommodate my old triple chainset chainring bolts (the lack of a recess this way around meant they fitted OK), now with proper single ring bolts I have it the other way around.

The tightwad in me thinks that maybe once the chainring is ‘hooked’ in one direction after wear and tear, I might be able to reverse it and eke some more life out of it!

Anyone have an opinion on this – not sure if it would just be chainsuck hell or not………………

Enduro Kid

I use the Works Components version and kept the top guide initially. I finally bit the bullet and went for it without as I had a few solo rides in a row planned.

No issue whatsoever Don’t even think about it now.

Make sure chain is as short as you can get away with.

Should have added XT shadow plus clutch mech. Worked ok even when I had the clutch in off a couple of times by accident (though would not recommmend this 🙂 )

I have two bikes, both with RF narrow/wide rings. One is lairy side out, one lairy side in. Both work the same.

@Taz.

Cheers for that, I’m guessing running a short cage mech with a clutch I’ll experience very litle chain movement so while my crank is off I may as well go for it and remove the top guide too.

My chain is pretty short as it is so all being well I won’t have any issues with dropped chains.

Other experiences will be good to hear too.

I can’t get my head round how expensive these are.

I run a simple (top) chain guide properly fitted which allows me to use any size single ring and change whenever I want. I cant remember the last time I dropped a chain either (once properly aligned).

dont get me wrong I WOULD have one in a flash. not at 45 quid though for something that will wear out.

I run mine with graphics out (I quite like them, but then again I have Easton wheels) with no chain device and a short cage X9 clutch mech and I’ve not dropped a chain yet. I’m sold on the idea.

With regards to cost, they’re not cheap (I paid £40 for mine) but you do save on a chain guide which are hideously expensive. It also allowed me to sort my chain line out because my E13 guide on ISCG05 tabs wouldn’t work with my Race Face cranks unless it was massively spaced out.

On the flip side, branded chainrings aren’t cheap. Look at how much a Race Face team ring costs.

I know it is all in the legs, but has anyone bought a 32T and wished they had gone for a 30T, or vice versa? I am thinking my dodgy knees may thank me for the 30T.

Is there much of a muchness between the RF and Works Components rings other than £10?

Before I moved to 1X10 I was running 1X9 with a 34 upfront and 11/32 out back. I managed to ride anything & everything but the climbs were tough to say the least, but I still managed to get to the top slowly!!

Now I’ve moved to 1×10 I run a 32 upfront with an 11/36 outback, IMHO I feel this set up is ideal for any UK trail centre or local natural riding.

I started with a 34 tooth ring which I found fine in the summer but as things get wetter and heavier going I’ve dropped to a 32 tooth which seems ok. There are times when I wonder what a 30 tooth would be like, but I think I’m ok as it is for now.

I started with a 32 x 11-36 set up, but switched to a 30T (on a 29er, so add 10% back for wheel size, is akin to a 33T front, sort of)

I just found having the 30T gave me a bit more before really having to grunt, conversely not having quite such a big top gear has been barely noticeable.

Zee clutch mech here, haven’t lost a chain yet and I’ve hit some very rough stuff hard to try and get it off. Stuff that I would have lost a chain on without a lower guide thats for sure. on my old 9 speed set up.

I am on 34T and it is fine but has become more of an issue as the winter has kicked in. My climbs are generally short and steep so you can grind up them. For longer climbs I think this would be too heavy a gear for me on long days out. Next one will be 32T or it may even be a 30T. I rarely use the 11 on a 34T so a lower bottom gear would be of higher benefit.

RF vs Works – Price and RF go to 30T (works only go to 32)

Hora – I hear you but the benefits of lower weight, less drag and cleaner look (IMO) are all worth it. The WC version has seen 6 months use and it looks in pretty good nick to me. I do maintain my bike well and change chains regularly but I have ridden loads in the last 6 months in all weathers (hmmm why am I not fitter then :?:)

I agree Taz, having no guide up front does look clean and that is definitely the look iI’m going for!

I also agree that the cost of a NW ring is far less than a guide, plus there will be less drag and much less wear across your chain, casstte and ring so all being well you should get a hell of a lot of use out of your £40 ring!!

Ok go on then- where can I find the cheapest place for an instock 30T one?

BET THERES NOWHERE!!!!

I used a Works ring with no guide and a non clutch xt rear mech around Peaslake, Surrey and never dropped a chain. Save a tenner and go for the Works. Made in the UK too (support British industry).

@Hora, cheapest I found that had 30T RF NW in stock was CRC @ £40.49.

Would be surprised if you found cheaper TBH.

blackspire now have a 30T one
http://dirt.mpora.com/fresh-produce/blackspire-add-mono-veloce-narrowwide-chainrings-to-their-lineup.html
i thought works were doing one now too?

Cheapest instock CR 30T one is 45

Works is 32T – no 30T’s

I love Blackspire stuff(I’m running a 32T one 1×9 at the mo)- will have a look round.

Do you see how quickly you guys twisted my arm there?

Hora, its the future, I hope 🙄

As soon as my current blackspire ring/chain is worn out I’ll pick one up 😀

Merlin, £39.95, all colours.

+1 for never dropping the chain…

Think i could do with some tabs for mine, don’t like the noise when I’m in 1st/2nd, bit of a grinding noise! Think the chain line could be better.

Fitted mine to a SLX crankset.

@mkidley.

Can you remove a BB spacer on the drive side to get a better chain line?

I’m running a Zee single specific crank so hoping I’ll have a good chainline from the off.

Soory for the thread jack but i have a RF n/w chain-ring and was wondering whether i definately need a clutch mech for the rear and can i use a 10 speed clutch-mech on a 9 speed rear?

I’ve heard people say that they use a NR with a standard mech with no issues but I’ve have had no experience myself, I’m sure someone can advise?

Anecdotally have run a clutch mech accidentally with clutch off with no issues. However,I reckon a clutch mech is the best drivetrain improvement of recent years, and if you offered me a deore clutch or an xt std mech I’d have the clutch every time.

And a 10spd rear mech won’t work for 9 speed, although if you google it there is iirc a bodge with spacers on the leverage arm that can make it work, supposedly.

http://m.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=148662

Here

What chains are people using?

I’ll be using an XT chain, will this be ok or are there more specific chains to use?

I’m just using a Sram 10 speed chain. No issues whatsoever.