I have sourced the following to fit an orange 5
Existing 104bcd xt crankset with a 32t Raceface NW ring
New xt 8000 rear mech gs
New 11-42 xt cassette
New xt 11 speed shifter
New kmc 11 speed chain (set up with big ring to big sprocket plus 2 links)
In the stand the change works seamlessly up and down the cassette but as soon as I ride the transmission is grinding , shifting ok but really noisy in gears particularly around middle of cassette and largest cog.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Richard

I also have some slight hesitation around the middle of the cassette on my identical setup, except that my chain is Shimano.

In my case, I only wonder if I’ve spaced the bottom bracket wrongly for a single ring running such a huge cassette? (I added a spacer between the drive side BB shell and the frame when I installed the old transmission).

Thanks
I don’t think that you do need the spacer on my frame as it is 73mm bb . The chainline is very acute in the largest sprocket but it’s more the middle of the cassette ( which I will use most) where I am bothered.
R

You have got the thick teeth on the chainring running in the wider gaps in the chain and also , if it works like sram rear mechs then the top jockey wheel is also thick thin and setting it up so that the thick teeth are not fitting the wider gaps in the chain will cause it to make a growling kind of sound .

did you allow for chain growth as the swing arm goes through its travel? my guess is that the chain is too short and as the suspension compresses the rear mech is stretching too much.

If you’re existing n/w chainring is used, that will probably be it

Most likely cause is chainline is too far out in my experience. Either remove a space from behind the BB shell on the drive side and transpose it to the non drive side (if you can) if not, put a few chainring spacer washers between the crank tabs and the ring to move it inboard a little bit, probably only needs 1mm ish at most to run quietly.

You do have the chain routed through the rear mech cage properly?

Is your hanger straight?

Thanks for the replies.
A few answers.
Chain routed as per Shimano spec thru rear mech
Hanger checked and straight
Chain length looks ok. The mech is at about 4 oclock position in the largest cog if that makes sense.
Chainline might be an issue. I am moving spacer from drive side to non drive side.
The NW ring has seen a lot of use so I am replacing it, will update once fitted.
Thanks again
Richard

Most likely it’s cos your front ring is worn. I had the same on my Bronson when I borrowed a front ring to try different gearing before buying a new front ring. The ring I borrowed was worn and it was really noisy, to the point where I questioned whether or not it was compatible at all. Fitted new hope chainring and it was silent again and works perfectly. Hop that helps.

Possibly chainline/BB spacers, also your chain may be a link or two too short.

I installed mine at the weekend, wasn’t quite right, LBS reckon it needs a couple more links in the chain, despite measuring it “properly”.

thanks will update

Trickdicky, I am about to do the same, where did you get your xt bits from?

I’m doing the same today. I got my bits from bike-discount.de apart from an Absolute Black nw oval chainring.

Regardless of whether it’s the cause of your problem, if you’ve used the “round the largest sprocket and add 2 links” method on a Five,you need to compress the suspension to make that measurement, or a spectacularly expensive mech failure will occur as chain growth is a very real issue on these. The next issue once you’ve done this may be a slack chain in the smallest sprocket if your mech cage is a bit short, though your GS may cope with it using B-tension adjustment. As for noise, I generally put it down to chainline, as TBH, without 3 rings which effectively adjust it at the extremes of the cassette, you end up with some godawful chainlines at some points on the cassette.

Just gonna do this on a reign with GS mech. Will plus two links be a good length?

Was going to use a couple of months old nw ring.

Thanks eddiebaby, is it grouped or go you have to get each component separately? And what size mech cage did you go for?

Clobber sourced from a mix from Ribble cycles mech, cassette and chain crc for the shifter.
Coatsey thanks will take that into account once I’ve adjusted the chainline with spacers and fitted the chainring.Do you empty air from shock to replicate full travel.
Richard

I bought separates as I wanted a KMC chain and I went for an XTR bar mount shifter. I’m using the SGS dérailleur.

This thread may be of interest:
Five +M8000
There are pics showing chain growth etc.

Yeah, just let the shock air all out, compress and set the chain length as per normal but with the suspension compressed.

Thanks

Yeah, just let the shock air all out, compress and set the chain length as per normal but with the suspension compressed.

Good tip, cheers pal.

New NW Chain ring (32T) now fitted and running is spot on. Many thanks for all the ideas and help.
Richard

Glad to hear that, I shall be doing the same in a weeks time 🙂

Resurrecting this thread as I’ve run into problems myself and I thought it’d be a good idea to keep the knowledge in one thread.

So I’ve built the bike with a new XT shifter, rear mech and 11-42 cassette – plus a new superstar 32t narrow/wide ring on an SLX double chainset.

Using a new 11 speed 105 chain, which I thought should be fine as the XT chain is listed as XT/Ultegra anyway.

Worked OK on the stand apart from when backpedaling on the two largest sprockets the chain climbed back down the block. It did this regardless of B-tension screw position.

Bike has a pressfit BB so no option to adjust chainline with BB spacers. Thought I’d left chain long enough, with mech at about 5 o’clock when chain on biggest sprocket.

Decided to see how it worked on the road and all seemed well until after a minute or so the chain jammed when I dropped it into the smallest cog and built up a bit of speed. On closer examination there are now a couple of mangled links and I have the right hump.

Any ideas what I’ve done wrong? I don’t wanna sacrifice another chain to the angry god of Shimano.

That’s a load of arse, sorry! I’m just about to repeat the same on my Reign with a tight arse 105 chain, Superstar chainring and old SLX double chainset…

Nothing really useful to add from my experience other than I didn’t get the BB spacers right first time for the chain line, and blindly following the installation instructions left me with a chain a few links too short.

In my defence, I’d never installed gears before, and I thought £15 at the LBS was good value to avoid me screwing it up further…..

I’m thinking it could be as simple as chain being too short.

Maybe 11sp stuff is less tolerant than I’m used to?

Added more chain, now working much worse still.

Grrrr.

if your freewheel is a bit sticky it’ll allow slack to build as you back pedal maybe?
the shit chainline you get will encourage the unguided chain to drop when you back pedal too
also i guess a double would have the rings centred about ( either side ) the middle on an equivalent triple, so spacing the ring inwards may help mitigate the chainline a bit.

If it’s grinding in all the gears then it sounds like a new chain + worn chainring issue.

Thanks for the ideas.

By a process of elimination that involved swapping most of the drivetrain for my old 1×10 setup – I now think it’s the position of the chainring.

The ring doesn’t have any built in offset, unlike the other superstar narrow-wide ring on my 1×10 bike.

So I’ll try spacing it across a bit further inboard when I get the chance.

My XT 1×11 drops down when back pedalling in 42 and the one below that too. I think this is normal because of the chainline and isn’t too much of an issue because I don’t tend to back pedal in those gears.

I can’t use a spacer because I’ve got a press fit BB, but I’m going to try putting spacers behind the chainring bolts as I’ve got some room to play with between the chainset and frame. I’ll report back.

Has anyone installed 1 x 11 successfully using XT M800 parts only on a 5?

Happy with the result on my 5

running m800 parts aside from kmc chain and raceface ring on my 5.
seems ok.

Another resurrection of this thread..
I’m installing XT M8000 1×11 on my 5 tomorrow.

Which side of the bottom bracket does the spacer need to go? I would have said the drive side to give a 51mm chain line..?

I’ve got a 32t chainring, anyone now how many chain links is optimal?