Ashy I was looking at the Crossmax XL Supermax wheels online just today. Bookmarked for when I have more money than sense. Supposed to be good.

They are really really nice aren’t they?! Get stonking reviews too. I don’t want to fall foul of fashion’s but worried they’re a little narrow compared to some other wheelset out there. I do really feel the tyre squirming about on my crossrocs and don’t want to buy these for the same to happen. Chris

I’m wary of wheel upgrades because I don’t know whether I’ll actually notice it. I’m not feeling my wheels flexing. Is that because I’ve always had flexy wheels and don’t know better? Maybe if I rode a bike with stiffer wheels I’d get it. It’s certainly tempting to consider the upgrade.

Is it the wheel you feel flexing? Or the tyre in the narrow rim? I run around 35psi so my tyre doesn’t flex too much. I’m just not aware of the flexing, only researched it because MBR blamed their perceived nervousness of the bike on flexy wheels.

I’m pretty happy with mine. But there’s always another upgrade. Right?

I’m around 100kgs so fairly heavy and can definitely feel the flex in the back wheel. The lower pressure from running tubeless definitely compounds the feeling though. Starting to think I should be paid the extra £600 and bought the team, given what I’ve spent on upgrading to 1×11 and now potentially new wheels! I’d like a longer drop seat post too. Upgradeitis is a terrible affliction!

MBR found the Team to have flexy wheels too, and the brakes aren’t as good, despite being more expensive. So you probably made the right choice with 2, besides the red looks best. 😀 I’m one of those oddities that really likes the 2×10 setup.

I shed a lot of weight in the past 6 months and am down to 77kg and I can’t be bothered with tubeless. I’m just wondering if it’s the tyre pressures you are sensing more than the wheels flexing?

It’s a combo of both really. Think the lower tyre pressures exacerbate it for sure but I can flex the back wheel by hand…

I think after the summer I might treat myself to a pair of Stans Arch Mk3 wheels with DTSwiss spokes from JustRidingAlong. Might even take the lefty hub off the crossroc to get the price down as I can’t imagine there’s much market for a Lefty Crossroc. The Stans seem to be well regarded and a pair will come in at less than £400 – closer to £300 if I supply the hub.

Ok. Another silly question. Should I try going tubeless? I have the valve kit that came with my crossroc equipped carbon 2. I have Michelin Wild Grip R tyres. What do I need to do? Is it worth it?

yes,do it! put the valves in, refit the tyre leaving a bit of bead free at the bottom, pour in sealant, reseat bead, pump tyre up ( I needed a track pump and some vigorous pumping to seal the bead on my michelins) and voila. job done.

Those Kinesis wheels one the Fresh Goods Friday look impressive.

I thought that. I did get some quotes from light bicycle and they seemd to be $1000ish now, which is a bit rich for me given the risk of paying customs on top of that as well.

ooooh, just priced up a custom build from actionsports.de ( anyone used them?) and cpome out at about £530 delivered. Spec look any good?
1. Hubs:
DT 240s Lefty disc 36T Ratchet System VR+HR 6Loch black

2.Rim:
NoTubes ZTR Flow MK3 Felge black 650b
€120.00*

3.Spoke:
Sapim CX-Ray 2.0/2.3-0.9/2.0 black
€50.00*

4.Nipple:
DT Pro Lock Squorx Pro Head Alu Nippel red
€30.00*
3.TLR Kit:
Fun Works Ultralight Tubeless Kit red Valves/29mm Tape
€20.00*

works out at £534 delivered. Not sure whether I’d be better going for the Arch Mk3 rims or sticking with the flows. Any ideas from anyone how tough the new Stans Arch rims are?

Just got as 45mm Thomson for my Trigger, makes an appreciable difference for comfort not tried it out properly though just a couple of laps of bushy park.

Chris, check out the American Classic Wide Lightning. Some good deals on Lefty wheel sets on the R2 site.

Upgradeitis is a terrible affliction!

Agreed. I’ve now changed everything apart from the crank set, frame, fork, shock and stem. I think it’s pretty much there now. 😳

From the quick bit of research I did, the Arch seem to be trail wheels vs the flow being downhill. Both seem to be super stiff and strong, with the flow taking more abuse and weighing a bit more.

Action sports are a good find, I wonder how good they are? Good bit cheaper than elsewhere for wheels built on DT Swiss Hubs.

Cheers John,
I’ll check the r2 out. How do American classics work out vs a DT/ stans setup? I’ve read good things about actionsports so can’t imagine their wheel builds will be poor…

The lefty hub on that actionsports.de link isn’t a supermax hub- so you would need to spend an extra 35£ on a new brake adapter, as well as the wheel not being as beefy as it can be- the supermax hubs at 10mm wider at the flanges.

Ah well spotted. Wonder if they have the supermax

DT don’t do a supermax width hub- your choices are- Cannondale- cheap, if you can find one in stock, Project 321, relatively expensive -Acros / Chris king / tune -Very expensive.

Great info ta. Back to the mavics then…

Cannondale Hub is available here at the end of the month according to them.

I’m being a snob, as I know the Cannondale hub is well regarded but it feels a bit like 2nd best! Might check out those other hub options.

It’s a tube with 2 bearings in it..

I know…. 😳

Ashy JRA build around the Cannondale hub. You can save yourself about £150 getting the wheels built up with Cannondale and XT hubs.

Money not too big of an issue, happy enough to spend up to about £600, but certainly no more than that really.

Check them out. Hope hubs fit that bill.

If anyone is interested I can confirm that the 77desgnz over ring chain guide I got from Ashy does fit the Jekyll’. No idea why it wouldn’t fit a Trigger.

Very glad to hear it fits! Any pictures of it fitted?

I got my shock back from mojo a few days back and got out on it today. It was perfect in short travel by when I tried long travel. The piston came out and a cm and wouldn’t go back in. When I bounced it would come out and then slowly go back in. Stopping a cm from fully in. It also has a knock while the piston tries to go back in.
Flick it back to short travel and it’s prefect again.
Tried emptying and refilling both chambers and it’s still the same.
The return notes said that the master cylinder has been replaced. Seals replaced.
Very frustrating

That’s crappy crazymac. I’d be gutted, I certainly was when I had issues with my brakes. My shock has been great though. Hope it gets properly sorted this time, I wonder if they’ve re-assembled it incorrectly and somehow fudged up the seals on the long travel air chamber.

Frustration continues. Since my mate is home this weekend and I lend him my spare bike I decided not to send the shock back until next week as it works in short travel. So I fitted it again and set it up.
It now seems to be working normally in both modes.

Here you go Ashy…
The only complaint I have is the fact it is a T20 so thats another tool I need to carry with me.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a chain device for the Trigger 4? All going well since converting to 1×10 with a narrow wide and the shadow mech until a recent trip to Bike Park Wales. Constant chain dropping meant I had to keep it in short travel mode and take it abit easier which ruined my day somewhat when you have an uplift.

Will a simple top device suffice?

Thanks in advance

Sorry. Edit.

The OneUp low direct mount fits the trigger 2 carbon.

My rear shock is back to faulty. Quite relieved really as it should be easier for mojo to identity the fault of its happening.

Ashy – thanks for the reply.

The Oneup low direct mount is a S3/E Type fitment. The spec on the Trigger 4 is ISCG 03 tabs, so will this fit?

Sorry for my ignorance but have never needed a chain device before on my hardtails and it seems a confusing and murky world of compatability (like the rest of the bike industry!)

It fits to the mount where the front mech was. Chris