What if…………flat pedals existed

I guess I may borrow the bike for a test ride this weekend, just to see how it feels on a test loop.
I genuinely can’t remember how it is to ride a hardtail, as dumb as this sounds. Even worse that I now ride flat pedals full time, curious to see if my feet will stay in place

To all interested, Raaw is releasing the Madonna V2. You can check it on Enduro-mtb latest issue.

Seems they tweaked the geo a little and parted ways with the welded top tube (which I never understood why it came in the first place)

A couple of years ago I got my last hardtail, one of the very first Pipedream Moxies available. It had a very cheap build kit, I never got along with the Fox 34 and ended up selling it to a relative shortly after in order to finance a FS enduro bike. Also my skills were a far cry from what they are now, so I guess I never pushed the Moxie to it’s potential.

Fast forward to today and I now have a 160/155mm travel FS (Stumpy Evo) which I love, it’s crazy fast and composed everywhere as it is comfortable, but I sometimes get a little annoyed with all the cleaning and care taking.
I wonder how would the Moxie be with a better build, 160mm Fox 36 included combined with my current skillset and the trails I ride now. Plus expanded bikepacking capabilities from the HT frame.
My relative is now selling the bike (I’m actually managing some of the ads) and he’s willing to let me have the frame back for a very good value.

So now I’m fighting this urge to build the ultimate aggro hardtail, but still considering the FS would have to go

Before using the levers make sure the bead is both unseated all the way round and also resting on the deeper channel at the center of the rim

Last January was ejected from the bike after a less than ideal landing from an over 2m high huck to flat (on a trail bike) and landed on my back on the biggest pile of boulders around. Got a big scar on my right shoulder blade and broke a toe

For me shopping from Germany=
Bike24
Bike-components

Massive stocks, great prices and top notch costumer service.
Sometimes also shop from Action Sports.

Had problems in the past with Bike-Discount and R2. Slow and poor communication and dubious costumer service decisions on their side, never again

Another vote for the Alpinestars Paragon. Also have a pair of POC VPD Airs, and while the pad and overall construction is better on the POCs the Paragons are slimmer, fitting better under trousers and the pad has better coverage

Any kind of walking on supposedly “walking friendly” SPD shoes. Any of them

In the last 2 years had a Fox 34, then a RS Yari RC, then upgraded the Yari internals to Lyric spec, then my current Fox 36 Rythms.

The Lyric is a little smoother and easier to disassemble at home. Mid stroke support is worse, so you need to play more with tokens and pressure. Also, the hive interface is made for torque caps, so if you don’t have those installing the wheel is not as convenient.

The 36 stiffer (I weight 100kg without gear, can notice that), the finish is more hard wearing and the knobs much higher quality (the rebound one has a cap, great idea). On very step sections the fork also stays higher in the travel which is nice.
In any case, they are both great forks

If you are looking for the very best deal I’d get a Yari RC on sale together with a Charger damper and a Debonair shaft (also can be found on discount)

Never tried one, but in theory I believe a purpose built mullet makes perfect sense for downhill dominant racing with lots of rear travel and maybe a rider under 180cm.

For myself, not a dedicated racer, not so much:
– a rear 29 wheel as more potential for better climbing traction and rollover
– on enduro bikes with 150/160mm rear travel tyre buzz is not dramatic if you are tallish
– as a weekend warrior is nice to have that old spare tyre and rim at home knowing it will fit both ends in an emergency

Don’t the Freerider Pros have a questionable durability track record?
I keep reading on how thin the outer sole is

I’m sure the Freeriders are very good, but I would like an upgrade in stiffness and protection over the GR7s, which both versions of the Impacts seem to offer.
I get foot fatigue over shoe flex on rough lift days, and broke a big toe some months ago after a fight with a rock. The GR7 are great for regular trail riding, grip is good, they’re light and dry fast.

I might be wrong, but the Impact Pros seem to be very similar to the GR7s

Is worth a grain of salt, but he got 13th at this year’s Crankworx Innsbruck DH, with plenty of big dogs in the field and I’m not even sure it was his own bike.
Maybe luck, or everything suited him really well, I guess we’ll know this season.

Reminds me of Phil Kmetz (Skills with Phil channel), went to the US Open, got a really good result on an enduro bike, while also racing the enduro race.

I have a pair of Sam Hill Nukeproof Horizons which I love, but wouldn’t mind to try some plastic ones someday.
Mine are quite beat up, very few areas left with the original black finish and had to replace 50% of the original pins or so. Bearings/bushings are fine still.

An issue I have with screw through pin pedals like the Horizons is that when you remove a damaged pin you tend to also damage the thread on the pedal body. Doing so property involves first cutting the pin and then unscrewing it, but you don’t always have the tools.

Plastic pedals are better in this regard, the pin screws through a standard nyloc nut on the opposite side, you can easily replace the whole set.

One Up Composites used to be all the rage around here, not hearing much about them lately.

Anyone used both the One Ups and the Horizons?

I used to be quite skeptical about trousers but my stance changed radically over the last year.

Begining of last winter I purchased a pair of Endura Singletrack trousers on a good deal, out of curiosity. They suck up lots of water and get heavy and saggy in the rain and are on the hot side for summer and could have a slimmer fit, but I loved how they kept my legs and knee pads clean, how protected my lower leg from all kinds of stuff and how, except for the heat, unrestrictive they were for pedaling.

This spring I got a pair of Decathlon NH500 Fit hiking trousers
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/nh500-fit-mens-khaki-id_8502002.html

Best buy ever:
– cheap, £20
– not as robust as dedicated MTB trousers, but tough enough
– very nice, slim fit but still go well over pads
– very comfy, stretchy fabric
– very cool in the summer
– they suck very little water and dry crazy fast
– with lycra chamois underneath plus knee pads they are warm enough for me

When these go I might try some more specific riding trousers, like the Endura Burners

Five Ten Trailcross Mid GTX

Introducing Five Ten’s Trailcross collection – A new shoe-line developed with Adidas

Also Vaude has the AM Moab Mid STX

https://www.vaude.com/en-INT/Products/Best-in-Test/32947/AM-Moab-Mid-STX?number=204796780410

It’s just a fact of life, you’ll miss something.
It will most certainly be something stupid and you’ll have to wait for the part because a) it’s Sunday and everything’s closed or b) no LBS Will stock it in a million miles radius (they sold the last one yesterday)

Dare I suggest to give flat pedals a try? You’ll find the amazing world of shoes you can perfectly walk on while also improving your riding (at least in my case)

No GX, but NX Eagle user here.
Got it on my current bike I got last May, used all generations of Shimano XT until then.

When everything is 100% clean, freshly adjusted and no loads, the NX shifts smoother than the M8000 XT. Together with the slightly bigger range that’s it.

Shifter ergonomics are awful. When shifted under load it feels like it will explode. It starts misbehaving at the very sight of mud or dirt. It needs frequent adjustment, sometimes even the limit screws move around. The derailleur is developing play on most pivots. The derailleur is huge and exposed.

I like the NX crankset with the steel chainring as my frame can’t mount a bashguard (Stumpy Evo).

The M8000 XT was flawless for 1,5 years, it needed adjustment a couple of times, and always worked as it should no matter how neglected. At least the NX makes me wash my bike more frequently, which I guess is good.

Can’t wait for 12spd Shimano groupsets to pop up cheap at German sites to replace the whole thing, brakes included

An hair under 6’1 here. Used to have a L Bird AM9, now own a S3 alloy Comp Evo since May or so.

Amazing bike, does everything quite well. WC grade DH track that kicks you in the teeth? Check. All day enduro style riding? Check. Messing around on more mellow trails? Flattens them a bit, but check. Bikepacking trip? Check.

Mine has the shock spacer removed, so has 155mm rear travel, never tried it on the stock travel so can’t comment on that

Also, it really benefits from extending front travel to 160mm (Specialized approves this). It puts the BB at a perfect height on the high position, it climbs so much better this way.

The blue Schwalbe ones.

Cheap, easy to use and read, tough, light and the first battery on mine lasted 7 years

One thing that helps on very rough technical climbs on flat pedals is to be on 1 or 2 heavier gears than you’d be on clips. The added pressure you apply on the pedals keeps your feet better attached. The lower torque also smooths power delivery.

Oval chainrings seem to be marginally better for this, but I don’t care anymore

Was on clipless pedals for 12 years I think. Always bought into the “they’re more efficient, way to go” crap, and they seemed like the advanced mountain biker option. Flat pedals and shoes were also crap for most of that time, which didn’t help.

Switched to flat an year ago, Nukeproof Sam Hills and Shimano GR7 shoes. Became a much, much better rider all-round. Interestingly, I even prefer them for climbing. Stepping on a big flat platform feels much more natural than on a clip mechanism with float.

Every time I switch back to clipless, even for a single day, I start to do the same mistakes again. Now I don’t even bother. Better control, much more comfortable, even for very long days. My knees, ankles and feet never complain on flats.

The only situation I struggled at the beginning was on very fast, very rough downhill sections (and I mean proper DH and enduro tracks). I just needed to adapt and learn how to ride properly. I found that on clipless I was riding at speeds above my skillset. Now I ride even faster but in much more control.

If I was starting or simply trying I would get some plastic pedals, either the Oneup or the Burgtecs. Shoes are a little more complicated, but good deals pop up from time to time.

A pair of Shimano M540 SPD pedals purchased in 2005 or 2006 that lasted until last year, in other words, my entire SPD “career”.

They started to need more frequent bearing maintenance on the last few years and then the races got shot

I ride Nukeproof Horizon Sam Hills with Shimano GR7 shoes (actually not the stiffest shoes around) and never ever feel any discomfort. I’d try different pedals.

Used to have pressure spots with various combos of clipless pedals and shoes over the years, by the way

Anyone knows about dropper compatibility of the Alpkit Koala with a Valais but without the Exo-rail?
Thanks

AFAIK, some DH WC mechanics insist to match fork offset and and set length. Greg Minnaar’s comes to mind.

My former long travel 29er had a 51mm OS fork and 35mm stem. Steering wasn’t aweful, but sometimes a little quirky.
My current one has a 45mm stem and a 44mm OS fork. Steering feels much more composed, predictable and natural. You feel it specially at those tricky steep tight corners where you steer with your shoulders instead of leaning the bike.

This is highly anecdotal and we’re talking about two different bikes, but considering what I feel and the input from pro mechanics I find it plausible to have a positive influence

Thanks Scotrouts. I bet that Vole is great, if a bit pricey. Any cheaper alternatives?

What’s the word on dropper compliant saddle bags available in Europe?

Love my Bikepack.pl Repack, but it’s a no go with a dropper, even with a Valais

They are great shoes, have a pair for a little over an year.
Can only compare gripwise to some Fiveten Spitfires I had, let’s say the Spitfires were 10/10 the GR7s 9/10, but otherwise way better shoes.

They are stiff enough to not feel pedal pressure points even after a full riding day day supple enough to walk in full comfort. They are easy to get wet but dry easily.

Toe protection could be improved a bit. Otherwise, like with most Shimano stuff, really durable, mine are like new after an year

Thanks all

I guess I’ll pass that deal then

Local to the area here.

Amazing place to ride, can’t say good enough things about it.
If you are into more xc/trail there are hundreds and hundreds of trails, just check trailforks and Wikiloc.You can try the Serra d’Arga mountains for a trail ride there, specially when you cross the ancient Roman stone paths.

For more of an Enduro/dh Ride, Bikepark Ponte de Lima is cool, but I prefer by far the guys at Pé do Negro. They do both guiding and shuttling and build and maintain their own trails

At 25% sag, the a2c of a 120mm fork is 500mm. That’s way longer than the rigid fork.

The closest would be a 80mm fork.

Honestly, I would pick a different bike if the intention is to use a suspension fork

Can’t comment on the new damper, but the Pike chassis is head and shoulders above the 34

Had an AM9, now have a Stumpjumper EVO with shock spacer removed and 160mm fork (as approved by Specialized).

Is a worse climber than the AM9 by a tiny margin, but is an absolute monster in the downs

Go to a good Crossfit gym.
And by good, I mean good (plenty of crappy ones popped around with the increase in popularity).

You’ll get a lot stronger, much more stable core, hips and shoulders, much less fatigue riding

Had an AM9 for an year.

Amazing bike, really enjoyed it.
Pluses:
– suspension kinematics, with high antisquat, provide an amazing climbing platform. I can’t remember using the shock lever, when you push the pedals it goes forward. Climbs better than many trail bikes
– very user friendly design, external cables, no stupid details or mud pockets. Colet pivots are great
– best costumer service I ever experienced

Negatives:
– suspension kinematics cause a relatively high level of pedal feedback and perceived harshness. When bombing through rock gardens and such it feels harsher and with shorter travel than others. My new Stumpjumper Evo feels much smoother and like it has more travel
– it hadn’t a “premium” feel, paint isn’t the best and it even lacks a chainstay guard
– awkward bottle cage position. You either go with a piggy back shock or with a normal bottle. I chose the later and the RS Deluxe shock turned out to be quite bad on intense DH runs

Dropper posts revealed to me that I greatly enjoyed going downhill aggressively, so much that 2 years later a third or so of my riding is on uplifts and/or Enduro and DH tracks.

I also began to use flat pedals partially because of dropper posts. With a conventional seatpost you end up riding on your tiptoes to retain some mobility over the saddle, which makes flats unpractical. With a dropper you have freedom to drop your heels

Highly subjective question.
I’m overbiked for about 70% of my riding. But those 70% only mean 20% of my enjoyment in mountain biking.

Also, like others said, travel only means so much in terms of bike feel. Going from Exo to Doubledown or DH casing tyres or vice versa can have a much bigger effect than switching to 20 or 30mm different travel bike.