Bahco all the way, no question.
Usually relatively expensive at retail price, but can be easily found at discount. I’ve several of their kits which I’ve used both professionally and at home for years and believe me, they make real pro level stuff

May I be the one to start the stream of AM9 recommendations?

Now just need to wait for 2 more years for when they release the next one with threaded BB. Then I’ll be finally good to buy myself a Commencal

While my overall list of mechanicals would be too long to mention here, I hold these two dearly:

– chain explosions on my old singlespeed days. Always happened at peak torque, always resulted in jewels hitting top tube, or worse, the stem.

– rear wheel explosions lately over my #endurobro career. No matter if it’s something minor (flattened rim) or major (imploded wheel) the results are always dramatic. My worst one was last year on a steep rough chute that you do at speed almost like a head first drop. Rear wheel hits one of the rocks harder than anticipated mid chute and promptly detonates with a bang, full landmine style. Detonation sends me head first over the last 1,5m of the chute, then the 16kg AM9 hits me on the back of the head. Friends ask me if I’m ok and if help was needed, I didn’t want to be the buzz killer and “yeah yeah, I’m fine, carry on I’ll meet you in at the shuttle van”. Had to walk down 80% of a EWS Stage track with the bike over me shoulder as the remainings of the wheel were stuck in the seatstays

I always find these over/underbiked questions to be tricky.

First, people generally look at that from the perspective of travel. Travel can say very little about how a bike pedals and how all-round usable it is. Some enduro bikes like the AM9, the Ripmo or the Rallon pedal really really well, specially when paired with lighter wheels and tyres.

Secondly, it depends a lot on what you really value as a rider. Someone might be underbiked for 90% of the year, but if that 10% remaining on the Alps trip is the overwhelming highlight of his year, then why not?

My first advice when someone comments about feeling overbiked is to install lighter/faster tyres, removing a steering spacer and consider lighter rims. IMO, a good pedaling enduro bike ia better on an all day epic than a light short travel trail bike is on a really rowdy trail

The Ripmo AF is a killer deal in the US, here, not so much. It’s not a bad one either in any way, but one only needs to factor in a brake upgrade to see the price jump. I guess many of us keep hearing/reading North Americans saying “it’s a steal it’s a steal!!” and internalise that without then comparing the spec with our local price.

I really like the Ripmo carbon V1 on my very brief experience with it, can only assume the AF is just as good. But I can’t imagine the price difference Vs the AM9 to be justifiable. Even if it was a price match, the AM9 can handle bigger forks, is more progressive (you might like that or not, in my case it’s a plus) and has the best costumer service and lifetime warranty ever

@nickc I had a Stumpy Evo for an year before the AM9. While it’s an interesting geometry experiment, great at railing corners and a very comfortable bike on more moderate paces, it lacks a lot Vs the AM9:
– durability. Mine was creaking everywhere, went through 2 bent shock bolts and most pivot bearings were shot
– very flexy rear end
– stupidly low BB, even with 160mm fork and high setting
– somewhat short
– low anti squat, very sluggish on climbs, always needed to mess with the climb switch
– rear suspension never really worked properly. It’s plush, until you start to really push the bike, then it’s all over the place

If it’s just some small scratch you don’t want to keep rusting then I’d just put some clear nail polish after cleaning with the steel wool.
Done it countless times over my steel frame “career”, sometimes to my surprise the nail polish was tougher than the paint around it

@oikeith
There is something to be said about the original AM9 150mm fork limitation. Not only are Bird’s validation requirements supposedly more demanding than usual, but it was also based on RockShox’s longer A2C lengths, I’ve seen references that the close call was only on the XL size and even Bird themselves said recently that it was only a close call. Also, all this was based on the upper homologation weight limit, which is something like 110 or 120kg.

I’m in no way advocating for someone to go outside manufacturers recommendations, only showing some context to it. In the end it’s a personal decision. On my original AM9 build I used a 150mm Lyrik, in my new one after all things considered I decided to run a 160mm 36.

I’ve posted this report on a similar thread some days ago, but won’t hurt to share my experience again.
Over the last 2 years I had an AM9, then a Stumpjumper Evo for an year, now I’m back on an AM9. That alone would say something I’d say.

Over that time I had the opportunity to try some of the bikes on the OP’s list:

Sentinel v1: was really excited about this one, but the bike feels dead and sluggish on climbs, like it lacks a lot of anti-squat. Downhill it blew through travel too easily and never lived up to the geometry. It’s like it unites the worst traits of both long and short travel bikes. Also, the L felt a little cramped but then the XL has an unbalanced front and rear center.

Meta AM 29: these things look absolutely fantastic in person, great finish and overall build quality. They work really well downhill, even with the slightly shorter geometry they feel stable and everything works. Uphill they’re comfortable but don’t feel very efficient, still better than the Sentinel thought. I feel they’re great bikes for someone dedicated to enduro racing or shuttles, but doesn’t have to pedal a lot. But sorry Commencal, I don’t pay for bikes with PF BBs

Ibis Ripmo: this was the carbon v1, not the AF. Also had light(ish) Exo tyres, so it might be biased. This was a surprise, it descends with good composure and it’s an absolute killer on climbs. Really liked it, you can do anything on those. The AF/V2’s XL geometry is also really close to the L AM9

AM9: rear suspension feels a lot like the Ripmo’s on climbs but with more margin on the descents. I’m an hair under 6’1, 6’5 armspan and the L feels absolutely perfect. Mine has an year of abuse, zero creaks, no play, bearings still perfect. The 65° HA on a 160mm fork feels like the right balance between stability and technical climbing, the BB is at the perfect height as well. Can’t wait to try it with a coil shock.

The Evo might be worth a mention: got this bike for a killer deal and I was in need of a new build kit and wanting to try a different geometry, so I thought why not? It corners like no other and the front end is amazing on very steep trails, but Vs the AM9 that’s it. The rear end is very supple but goes through travel like crazy even with the 155mm rear travel, it sucks at climbing and the BB is way too low for climbing proper trails (even with a 160mm fork and high setting) while having no provisions for a bash guard. After an year of use I went through 2 bent shock bolts, half the bearings are cook and it creaked everywhere, very disappointed with the build quality.

@nickc I always assumed that people knew that when one mentions “natural trails” he’s not implying trails built by Shawn the Sheep nor Ents but rather ungroomed non MTB specific trails

Good to hear that, I’m fully convinced to try them.

My opinion my current front Exo DHF 29×2.5 can be best described as “meh”. The Eco casing is made of cheese, even with a Rimpact insert and the cornering behaviour is kind of weird sometimes. Interestingly, the thread seemed to work better on the 2.3 width I used to have, more predictable.
Don’t get me started on the rear Aggressor 29×2.5. I could understand that tyre if it rolled much faster than say a DHRII, even with all the other minus it would have a clear use case. But it doesn’t, and sucks at everything else for someone riding natural trails. It sucks at climbing, it sucks at braking, corners ok. The only great thing about it is the DD casing which together with the Rimpact is fairly reliable

Those “non Super” Foxy 29s have a weird progressive-regressive suspension ratio which doesn’t seem to collect many fans among people I know who’ve tried it.

Besides looking stunning in person (they really do), I can’t think of a single reason to get a Foxy instead of an AM9. Worse suspension kinematics, worse front-rear center length balance, steeper steering angle, mud pocket shock position, not even comparable costumer service

Well, since my front Exo DHF os hanging on it’s threads and I can’t kill my rear DD Aggressor (but I hate it) I decided to spend sometime searching about Michelin range and I think I’m now convinced that my next tyres will be a set of Wild Enduros. They seem to have a casing somewhere in between Exo+ and DD which is what I mostly need, performance seems to be good and the price is surprisingly reasonable. Also not crazy heavy.

Also loved that one.
I really enjoy technical climbing, and also those of us who don’t spend most of their time on trail centers can really connect to the enjoyment of climbing actual hiking trails

Am I the only one who can’t for my life understand their range or navigate their website?

@jk1980 that was on the V1, I was under the impression the OP was referring to that one, maybe wrongly

I used to be quite interested on the Sentinel, until I tried one. People often assume that it’s relatively shorter rear travel provide it some sort of versatility, but I’d say it fails to do so. Going down it goes through travel way too easily, feeling undergunned, going up it seems to have too low of anti squat and feels mushy, inneficient and slow.

You stated you opinion about it, but I’m saying it anyway: Bird AM9 all the way.
Over the last couple of years I’ve tried the AM9, the Sentinel V1, the Stumpjumper Evo, the Ripmo V1 and the Meta AM 29. The Meta was the only one descending like the AM9, the Ripmo climbs as good (maybe even very so slightly better) than it, none combines both, not even by far

Despite all the bad reports about durability I’ve been riding on a pair of Five Ten Sam Hills since Christmas, as much as 4 times per week. O my surprise they still look nearly as new, soles included, and that’s on Nukeproof Horizon pedals.
Also, fantastic hiking shoes for proper rough trails

Also starting to look around for a coil for my AM9. I’m on the original (non RRR) link.
In my case I have no trouble to use full travel with the RS Deluxe RT3 like some people reported, but would like to make the rear end a little more forgiving.

Looking at the Marzocchi Bomber CR, either stock or with a J-Tech tune

Sometimes I do spot them relatively cheap, but they do have a Marzocchi logo on them. Would that be a problem for you?

Weren’t MT520s even a better value for those not sticking to labels?

singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/reliable-brakes-2/#post-11218786

@hols2, so you think crash survivability is not a feature to like on a component? Over 1,5 years on M8000s I went through 3 levers, after 1 year on Codes, crashing the same, I have a slightly bent right lever. I’d say the Codes are better for my user case on that regard.

Also, not a fan of either, but for each “you need to crash less” argument there’s a “maybe you’re not riding hard enough to crash” one

I’ve used various iterations of the XT brakes over the years, the last 1,5 years of those with the M8000. Surprisingly for Shimano, those were unreliable and fragile. The wandering bitting point was dreadful and the levers broke at each crash.

The 1 year ago I got a complete bike with Code Rs. Not being a Sram fan, was skeptical at first. To my surprise, those are the most reliable, consistent, fit and forget brake I ever had. They just work. The levers are huge and ugly but tough. Bitting point is on the mushy side Vs Shimano but it stays the same no matter what. Bleeding involves DOT oil, but it’s seldom needed and turns out to be a clean and quick affair.

I think Sram did a Shimano product by mistake

Don’t want to turn this into a flats Vs clips debate, but that squishy sole efficiency thing is highly variable within both systems. You have very soft squishy SPD shoes and very stiff flat pedal ones.
I mentioned pulling up the pedal not because I think it’s an important feature, but just something you can do.

And regarding technique, like I said, it’s not just about bunny hops and jibbing. You learn how to place yourself into corners, how to weight/unweight the bike, how to attack rocky sections, etc etc. There’s a reason why so many skills courses tell people to show up on flats, and it’s not just for bunny hops.
The flat pedal thing is just a suggestion, one that made me raise my eyebrows at one time but then opened a world of riding for me. Same with several of my friends.

But to each it’s own, and if one really wants to stay on SPDs, then great

I’d definitely suggest for the OP to try flat pedals, at least for the 12 rides mentioned above.

With proper shoes and pedals that sensation of ineficiency starts to fade away. Your feet are actually very firmly attached to the pedals, so much you can even do sort of a circular pedal stroke.

Good flat pedals and shoes are not too expensive either, I’d suggest Burgtec composites and Five Ten Freeriders or Shimano GR5s.

Flat pedals will definitely not be the very best setup every time, but neither are clipless. What they offer is safety, happy joints and most of all they teach you how to ride. It’s no just bunny hopping, but also attacking, cornering, etc.

Any story about “reliable durable” flat pedals generally sounds pretty lame when compared to Shimano SPDs. Those things are really made to last. I had a pair of M540 running from 2005 to 2018 with yearly lubes. They could endure some more years but the bearings were somewhat rough by then and I wanted to switch to flat pedals.
Shame that Shimano seems to miss the mark when designing proper MTB pedals, when compared to most popular offers.

Been running Nukeproof Horizons Sam Hill for 2 years. Even with heavy duty use they seem to endure well. Was thinking about retiring them 2 months ago or so, bushings were starting to get some play and some threads were nearly gone, but a refurbishment took care of that

The Burgtec composite pedals have the platform made of glass fiber reinforced polyamide, just like most, if not all, plastic pedals in the MTB market. Nothing special about them that way.

So yes, the platform is recyclable to a point, but so is an aluminium platform

I will say that these days simply saying “enduro bike” seems to not be enough anymore to define what one wants. The category seem to be splitting further into mini DH dedicated enduro racers (Mega 290, Madonna, Privateer 161 etc) and more versatile “quiver killer” all-rounders (AM9, Sentinel V2, Sight, Ripmo…). Both these fields have options with pretty long reaches. It might be worth for you to define what you want/need.
I for one like the Privateer but wouldn’t buy one as it seems to be too specialized at one job for me.

This said, I can’t recommend the AM9 enough. Incredible climber, incredible descender, amazing service from Bird

And here am I, looking at old and new Burgtecs while my Nukeproof Horizons simply refuse to die

Been running a Cane Creek shim for years, just does what it’s supposed to, zero drama. It’s supposedly a good quality one though, with a good texture to it to about slippage. I guess that makes a difference.

Having a plastic bushing in between the seat tube and seatpost is not as weird as mountain bikers often think. Loads of mechanical equipment always have a polymer bushing of some sort in similar assemblies

I’ve been following him for a while, being into blacksmithing and having spent some time at it a while ago.

Agree that he’s not everyone’s cup of tea with the hyperactive behaviour, myself had some trouble to start watching it due to it, but the proof is in the pudding and then you see the amount of preparation and work the guy puts into.

On the bike, he seemed to do a god amount of research prior, like he ordered a nice kit and used a staple source for frame builders, Paragon. But then some inexperience shows up, like the new and old school geometry mixed together and seating on a road/gravel bike to check cockpit dimensions.

Anyway, he’s not claiming to be a frame builder or that will become one, which I think it’s the correct mindset. He’ll likely restart the frame at some point during the build or make a new one after some rides, this I nearly bet

I used to ride an AM9, 500mm reach, with what was my usual setup at the time – 10mm spacer under stem, 15mm rise bar. Flat pedals felt fine-ish, but never got that planted, safe feeling in extreme situations.

Then changed for a Stumpy Evo, 475-480mm reach, similar cockpit setup, and flat pedals definitely felt easier. With time I started to raise the bars and flat pedals felt better at each iteration.
Now I’m back on an AM9 but this time with 30mm of spacers and a 30mm bar. Feel really really good.

I’d say that the trick is to raise your bars when you increase the reach. In my case raising 35mm of raise made a huge difference.
Long reach and lowish bars invite for a perched over the bars, very “on your toes” DH WC style of riding. It has it’s place, but not the best thing for flat pedals I think

Also curious on how you managed to kill for good a set of Burgtecs.

Anyway, and for what it’s worth, the composites are based on the tried and proven MK4 design, which you also seem to like. The new MK5 design, while it seems like an improvement on paper, still has a long way to go in terms of reviews and user feedback

If you want more details about the Hambini products I highly recommend a visit to his YouTube channel.
It’s both informative and hilarious

Being a “consumable component you have to replace anyway” is only half the story. The other half is how often you have to replace it, how easy it is to do so and how peaceful will it’s life be. Great engineering option, for cutting corners that is. All this, like I said, with a perfectly good alternative next door

We consumers have an immense power to steer the market. As such, even with an available solution, I wouldn’t buy a bike engineered with a PF. It’s their job to come with a bike that pleases my preferences.
As for Commencal, had the Meta a BSA BB I would have likely got one. Internal brake hose routing is also on the list, but I’m not as adamant about it

“Press fit BB issues” , also, water is wet?
Joking aside, it’s a crappy way to house BB bearings, specially when there’s a perfectly good and fool proof alternative. Even if the track record is not as bad as some people make it, I think it’s a stupid discussion to even have when threaded BBs are available. It’s the kind of thing I refuse to pay for, and I really wanted that Meta AM 29 last year

@benpinnick
Thanks for the updates.
Was the spec of the V3 changed to allow for 160mm forks or was simply a matter of validation re-runs?