First of all, for cornering and descending, stay centered on the bike, don’t hang off the back, and corner with hips and counter steering and hips instead of shoulders.

For manuals and low speed drops I find that on a LLS bike you need to a more “sliding rearwards” motion and strong preload. It’s less forgiving for lack of textbook technique than older shorter bikes where almost just needed to pull the bars to you and hang off the back for a manual. On the other hand, I find that on the LLS bike I don’t need to manual or move around as much on slow drops as I did in the old days.

Have you considered the Pipedream Moxie?

Yup, that’s called trying way too hard…

Never a better time to pick a nice donut all hardtail, so many great options, just some suggestions from my part:
– don’t let the material be a big factor for your selection, the whole “steel makes for a smooth ride” thing is mostly outdated advice from 80s road bikes and even pre-CEN MTB frames. Today’s steel hardcore hardtail frames are mostly too overbuilt to make a difference
– go for a slightly shorter static reach than you would for an FS, HT’s reach lengthens when suspension sags
– for the same reason, consider a slacker static HA than an equivalent FS

Anyone has an idea on how do they compare with the Nukeproof Horizons?

I was very inclined to try the Burgtecs MK5 when the Horizons die (highly doubt that day ever comes, not for lack of trying), but these Unites look like very nice options, and UK made as well

Thread resurrection here

Any updates on DH22 users?

Very best wishes for the recovery mate.

Also, take good care of yourself, proper sleep, lots of water and good nutrition makes a massive difference on recovery

I think it does matter for the setup procedure (the kerb one) in the sense that sitting down allows for a easily repeatable position and more consistent weight distribution at each run.

This is the same reason why I never set forks by sag, way too difficult to keep a consistent body position between measurements

@doomanic true, hence my Loctite 243 comment. In my experience, the relatively thick M4 pins tend to fall off before then bend, even on rocky terrain, so thread locker keeps things reliable

I set both rear sag (this one first obviously) and rebound seated, for the simple reason that it is a more repeatable position and weight distribution.

I always start setting rebound using the good old “going down a curb seated while looking at the shock” method. Full closed at first, then keep opening one click each time until it recovers the compression by going a tiny bit over sag point.

Then it’s a matter of going to the trails and assess if the rear end feels either choppy or dead. Being on flat pedals generally means that checking if it’s still easy to lift the rear wheel at will while still having a planted ride is a good indication for rebound setting. On my experience the final setting is generally either spot on or one click faster than the curb test

Good call then. Wouldn’t mind to try the new trimmed enduro modelo as well.

Big piece of advice tho, apply threadlocker like Loctite 243 to both the pins and end caps from new

I’d say it depends on what you value the most and what’s your use case.
I use both a 2 years old pair of Shimano GR7s and 8 months old Five Ten Sam Hills, always on Nukeproof Horizons.
The GR7 are grippy enough on 90% or more of situations, very light, dry quickly and in usual Shimano fashion extremely well made and durable. The Impacts Sam Hill have more grip for those 10% really bonkers situations, more protection, the very stiff sole is less fatiguing on very long days or very hard descends and are better for hiking on really (I mean really) rough terrain. I’m using the GR7s for bikepacking and lighter trail riding days and the Sam Hills for shuttles or winch and plummet days.

All things considered, if actual full on DH tracks weren’t in the plans, I’d be happy with only the GR7s

Check shipping bookers like Sendiroo or Eurosender, they generally can search the market and get you a good deal.
Used both of them a couple of months ago, very good service. Sendiroo is more automated and self service, Eurosender a little more personalized

My experience over the years told me some things:
– sizing, specially on these “upper” dimensions is highly inconsistent between brands and even within their ranges
– even between a 2.4 and a 2.6, in practical terms the size difference is not that huge
– the very largest tyres are either paper thin or, if any meaningful protection is present, weight a metric ton

So, as of now, I simply check what’s available between 2.4-2.6 and choose based on thread, protection and up to what weight I’m willing to pedal around.

Right now I’m 2 weeks (6 rides) into a set of Michelin Wild Enduros 2.4. very close in actual size to the 2.5 Maxxis I used to run. They have that damped, muted DH tyre feel I like, even more so than doubledowns. The front one is bonkers, so good, better than a DHF at everything it seems. The rear one climbs and brakes better than a DHR II but I’m still coming to terms with it at corners, sometimes does some weird stuff

I now ride with flats, but on my clipless era I learned a trick that made worlds of difference when resetting on steep climbs. You hop on the bike while doing sort of a trackstand and only start pedaling when both feet are clipped. I know, it sounds stupid, but it’s actually quite doable once you get the hang of it

It’s not only the rear end that’s stiffer on the V3 AM9s, the front triangle was also considerably reinforced

I’d repeat the AM9 suggestion already made above, but if for any reason you’re not fond of it, then the Ripmo AF would definitely be my first option.

Don’t mean to be a buzz killer, but can’t really find the appeal of the Hightower AL. I look at it, IMHO, as an overpriced, overweight aluminium mock-up of a carbon frame that seems to get generally lukewarm reviews.

@renton I owned a V1 AM9, now have a V3, the later has a burlier construction and both front and rear triangles are quite a bit stiffer. It was not like the V1 was flexy, but wasn’t as stiff as, say, a Sentinel. The new one changes that.

Also, the V3 are rated up to the longest 170mm forks available, like the RS Zeb or the Ohlins RXF36

Another vote for the Bird AM9, would choose one over the Jeffsy (or any YT) ant day of the week. Better built, best after sales in the business, versatile enough to be setup either as a full on enduro cannon or as a lighter AM bike

Bird Aether 9C

Three words: Michelin Wild Enduros

Weren’t they supposed to release a goretex version soon?

I can only comment on the AM9 quality, but it’s construction seems to be on par with the 145.
I got my V1 AM9 in 2018, put it for sale this week. Zero creaks, zero play, bearings still sound, everything as it should be. Paint is is not on par with the very best in the market, but it’s not bad either.
To put things in perspective, I had in parallel a Stumpjumper Evo for an year, same type of riding and care, got rid of it some months ago, the thing was creaking everywhere, half the bearings gone and went through 2 bent shock bolts.

Draw your own conclusions

Welcome back.

Now listen carefully:
– every bike now weights 50% more
– every bike is an enduro bike in some capacity. Except gravel bikes, those are xc bikes
– every bike must have enduro tyre, or better yet, DH casing tyres
– if you’re not “shredding” or “stoked” you’ll be publically lynched.

Good luck

I have a hard time believing you’d get any better than the Bird Aeris 145. A friend of mine just started riding his, really happy, another one ordered one yesterday.

Regarding Bird’s quality and service, I’ll just say I’m on my second AM9 (now a V3) and would pick the same bike even if my budget was the double or triple

To provide some context, I’m 92kg geared up and ride an AM9 relatively fast and aggressively.

I’ve had a rear Hucknorris and now run Rimpact front and back.
The Hucknorris helps a little bit with pinch flats and that’s it, while not even being great at it. The Rimpact on the other hand protects you tyre, your rim, makes the bike corner better and generally calms down the tyre behaviour. All this without much weight or cost.

I also used to waste time counting grams of tyres and rims until I got fed up with buying new tyres every 2 months and countless ruined rides. Now I run DD tyres with inserts. Uphill I needed 1 or 2 months to adjust my fitness, and that was it. I now use them on rides with 1000-1500m vertical no problem. Downhill, not only reliability improved exponentially, but the bike behaves a lot better, more stable, more traction and less fatigue.

Also, don’t forget an insert only protects the tyre from pinch flats, you’ll have punctures and slashes just as easily, so going for a lighter tyre might be a trap

Another recommendation on the DT Swiss 1900 series wheels, particularly the E version since it’s for a hardcore hardtail.

My brother had a set of E1900s on a Pipedream Moxie for an year. No, they don’t look like a million quid and the ratchet is not 350 level, but they held tension and shape surprisingly well, even without inserts and don’t weight a ton. We got them for something like 270€ from Bike24 If I recall correctly

The V3:
– 20mm shorter seat tube at each size
– rated to the longest 170mm forks available
– stiffer front and rear triangles
– more tyre clearance
– RRR link as standard

I think this is it.
I have a V1 with an air shock, my new V3 with a coil should arrive at any moment, can’t wait to build that up. I might do a comparo in a week or so

Can’t recommend the AM9 enough. Like I said on the other thread, would still recommend and buy one without question would they a lot more expensive, at the price they go for is no contest

Bird AM9 for sure.
Would still recommend/buy one if they costed a lot more, at the price they go for it’s a no contest

The first thing here to take notice is that chainstay length should not be compared to reach but rather to front center length. You can have two bikes the same reach but greatly different front centers due to different fork travel and head angles.
Then, to put things in perspective, 3 or 4 years ago a typical size L enduro 29er would have something in the lines of a 66° HA, 450mm reach and 150mm fork, while today a typical one could be 64,5° HA, 490mm reach and 170mm fork. The front center went from about 760mm to a whopping 833mm in these examples, a huge 73mm difference. This while the reach “only” grew 40mm.

They’re an odd one for sure. For years I saw them as relatively affordable punk brand. Then over the last couple of years they seem to have started creeping into higher price points.
I was curious about the Snabb 29 an year or so ago, but couldn’t find the frame in stock anywhere, when it was available the pricing was crazy (like 2300€) and almost no reviews or user feedback. Same with the Define, some hype in the beginning then no reviews.
Their current range is a mess, I can’t understand it

I should add to my last post that I prefer the GR7s for general walking around but the Five Ten Sam Hills are my pick for really rough trail hiking. The stiff and ultra grippy sole and uppers really feel like proper hard core approach shoes

I guess it also depends a lot on what the OP wants from the shoes.

I’ve had a pair of Shimano GR7s for 2 years (still holding quite well) and a pair of Five Ten Impact Sam Hills for 6 months. The Shimanos are lighter, better built, cooler and dry quicker, the Five Tens offer way more protection, a stiffer sole and more grip. As of now I’m using the Sam Hills for proper DH and enduro days (so when I end up going full on) and the GR7 on longer tamer trail rides and bikepacking. They can switch places, but I really think they’re filling the perfect tasks as it is.

So, based on my experience, I’d say that if you’re looking for the absolute best grip to really bomb downhill then I guess it’s Five Ten. If a little less grip than the absolute best is good enough for trail and AM riding, then I’d say there’s plenty of alternatives around there, likely more durable

Check Eurosender

Regarding the “is it a matter of fashion” question someone posted, I’ll speak on my behalf and a good deal of people I know.

8 or 10 years ago, the riding me and most people I know we’re doing generally involved more mileage and was a lot more static on the bike. In parallel, if you were bombing on the downs it was unlikely you were pedaling many miles on that ride, most likely pushing it up or shuttling.
At that time a typical Sunday would involve 40 miles of riding on trails that would make me yawn today and drinking some 2l of water, which involved a CB Mule.

Then came enduro bikes and dropper posts and people started to engage into more dynamic riding. Moving a lot on the bike favours less weight on your back (except if you’re a German in an Alps holiday, a massive Deuter backpack seems to be mandatory for those guys). At the same time, now if you’re bombing DH it’s quite likely you’re also putting some miles down and climbing back up.

A) for me, absolute deal breaker if there’s no bottle mount, and I’d need very very good reasons to pick a frame without on within the front triangle.

I always carry a Camelbak hip pack but only use the bladder on longer rides to complement the bottle in the frame.
I absolutely hate to clean bladders, while bottles are cheap, can be thrown into the dishwasher and I always have half a dozen of them lying around

Was supposed to have done a PMBIA certification last April which obviously got cancelled. Now rescheduled to September, but I can’t get flights…

Anyone?

Any AM9 users around here weighting between 88-90kg geared up with a coil shock? If so, what spring rates are you using? Also, please specify which link that’s with