I had my first crash this weekend on my TC2. Managed to survive a day of speeding through rocks, climbing loose gravel, navigating technical single-track, etc. Then one the way home I pulled up off a speed bump on the road in a lame attempt to get air at speed, feet left the pedals, landed behind the bike. For a moment I thought I was gonna manage to ski it out, then the bike washed out and I went down on my side under it. Roadrash on my right elbow, shin, and hip are a pretty good argument for elbow and knee pads.

Only marks on the bike are a scuffed ODI bar plug and scuffed pedal. Had the fork been anything other than a Lefty it’d be scuffed up I imagine.

First crash in a decade. Still a bit shaken up.

Jools I set mine up using the one step less pressure than recommended as I wasn’t getting nearly through the travel. Still have plenty left over. Fork is also slightly softer. I kept both + and – as per the chart. I’d suggest you just keep moving up till you are happy, but with the same ratio. Pretty sure the +- need to be fairly balanced for the shock to perform as designed, though fine tuning one away from the other in small increments is probably fine. Also fairly sure that you won’t need as much +ve pressure if you set the -ve higher too and the suspension will have the designed Spring curve.

Never done that. Also haven’t had a wallet in my back pocket for 20 years after discovering that was causing me back issues whilst driving. Sore back, try the wallet trick, was the common diagnosis.

My current wallet is Secrid Twin wallet – bit expensive, but really really great. I love it. Not back pocket friendly, but compact enough for the front, and the core is aluminium so you cards won’t bend.

Jools. Every time I see my Carbon 2 I smile. It’s badass. Get some Wild Grip R tyres too. The 2.35 front 2.25 back work well.

Congrats Jools. It’s a great bike. I love mine.

Deker. I’m around 6.1. Not 6.2 for sure. I have a Large and while I’m very happy with the sizing, I often think that I’d be just as happy on an XL. I think if you’re closer to 6.2 the XL will be a good fit.

This guy had it. Quite common. Removing the sag indicator is the permanent fix IF the squeak is that squeak.

Swainy have you checked if it’s the sag indicator on the rear shock. The little black bar slides up and down between a little hoop. On mine in creaked in time to bounding up and down on the shock. Or pedalling. Once I figured out what pressure gave me ideal sag I removed the indicator from the shock entirely. Problem solved.

Cable ties in a figure eight are keeping my cables tidy and stopping any more paint coming off the Lefty

I get on well with the saddle.

Had a blast on mine today.

Untitled by graham_dorrian[/url], on Flickr

Fit a tow bar? That’s my plan, though not on a CC.

Congrats Dave! I love mine more than any other bike I’ve ever owned. Enjoy.

I suggest you cable tie your cables to the fork leg. They will otherwise rub patches of paint away in a single ride.

Also suggest some helicopter tape around the bottom inch of the head tube and under that on the half inch of Lefty bracket – I got some cable rash there too, especially on the Lefty.

Don’t get the Leo cable guard. It’s really shit. I sent mine back. It’s just a cheap bit of plastic and it only stands a chance of not spitting into its two halves of you choose to superglue it around your cables. Two cable ties looped together (one horizontal around the fork and the other looped through it vertically around the cables does a far better and more discrete job and costs almost nothing.

Anyone thinking about the Leonardi Racing cable guide for the lefty, don’t bother. It’s cheap crap. Two halves push fit together around the cables. You cable tie one half to the lefty. As soon as you turn the bars, the pressure of the cables pops it apart. You are better off with a couple of cable ties looped together – I’m using a larger cable tie around the Lefty and a small tie looped through it and around the cables. Works better than the Leo which I am returning.

I too was looking at the Giant but opted for the Trigger C2. Love it. Never rode the Giant.

I’m leaving mine 2×10 so I don’t think the grip shift will work too well, especially with the XT levers which are thought to be a bit short for use with the grip shift. It’s certainly something I’m considering trying though. The cable bend on my shock remote doesn’t seem too severe and looks quite tidy. Not sure what the oiler thing is you speak of but I will look into it.

@Ashy. I didn’t even notice it.

Very nice Eddie

I really like the Odi Rogues on this bike. The stock grips are too narrow.

Trigger Carbon 2 by graham_dorrian[/url], on Flickr

Well I fixed my brake issue by cleaning the rotor with lighter fluid and baking the pads in the oven for a while. I did have a heart in mouth moment with the rear calliper when mounting it back onto the adaptor – crossed a thread, it’s like it’s made of cheese. Managed to correct it eventually but will probably buy another adaptor to be safe.

Things I’ve learned this week:

– The rear calliper adaptor mount is made of cheese. Take care with it.
– The KS Lev Remote is easily broken – if you tighten it up too much, not all that tight, then loosen it to move it, a nut turns with the screw and shears the plastic bracket at the back so you can’t mount it again. Pauls sent me a new one, but I think I want to buy a sturdy metal one some time.
– Shortening the hoses and cables for both the seatpost and rear shock is a doddle and seems to make them easier to actuate.

Ashy, I did ride it with the grip half off the bar! Shocking! It’s all good now.

I was feeling quite proud of myself for shortening the brake hoses, shock and dropper cables, and getting it all neat. Then I rode it and realised I got brake fluid on the rear rotor and pads. Squeal and crap stopping power. So mad at myself. Looks good though.

Trigger Carbon 2 by graham_dorrian[/url], on Flickr

I figured why my bars were 800mm. The shop built up my bike with the right hand brake and shifter 40mm to far to the right and half the grip hanging off the bar making it seem wider! :)

I had a great ride on my new Trigger on Sunday. Total blast going down and fun everywhere else. My only issue, my right thumb is aching from shifting the travel adjust lever so much. Any way to relieve that tension a bit?

Are they routed internally? Roadbike of MTB?

I had them on my Defy and I was sure it was the caliper, but it turned out the dealer hadn’t fitted a little rubber bung in my frame where the cables enter it and it was allowing them to move around and rattle inside the frame. I found the bung in the kit Giant provide in the box, secured the cable and pulled it taught and the noise went away.

What size bars came with yours? Mine turned up with 800mm bars even though the spec sheet says 760mm. Not complaining as I like them, but curious.

Took it out for the first proper run today. It was a lot of fun, even with the stock tyres. Found the suspension a little firm at one step below the recommended settings – have moved to two steps below which is probably getting me better sag anyway. Will see what happens next ride.

Yeah, I have the EnduroGuard on my Superlight – exactly the same design.Pitty they haven’t come up with something similar that’s Lefty friendly.

Anyone using a mudguard to keep crap off their face. I’d prefer something low profile like the enduro guard, but that won’t work with a lefty. Don’t really want a Moto style guard. Anyone using a crud catcher under frame and finding it effective?

My Trigger 2 Carbon arrived today. Very pleased. Spent a good while setting it up and fixing a leaking front brake so have only ridden it to the end of the street and back. But it feels awesome and responsive. Still waiting on tyres. And the front brake seems like it could use another bleed. Looking forwards to the weekend!

Cheers. I went ahead and ordered the wild gripr 2 advanced. 2.25 and 2.35.

Hey folks. I’ve been lurking in this thread for a bit. I’ve now just ordered the Trigger Carbon 2. Excited. I understand the tyres are great. What’s the latest consensus on replacements? Wildgrip R2?

I’ve just been experimenting with some old bar tape (Giant stuff, that kinda squishy tape they put on the Defy, it’s about 1.5mm thick? I found that cutting a couple of inch long strips and experimenting with trimming its width, then placing above and below the clamp area at the lower half of the hood, under the hood between the body and the hood, where your hands tend to sit, that seems to tighten things up a bit. Not perfect, but less flappy. I’ll give that a proper go once I finish setting up the brakes before I tape the bars. It’s really just filling a small void inside the hood to pull it tight.

I’ve just fitted a pair of these levers to my bike, ran the internal cables and set up the gears. I’ve yet to connect the hoses and bleed. I’ve just noticed that the left hood is baggy. Am I going to have to pull the gear cable to install a replacement? I’m not even as far as taping the bars yet. Thanks.

qtip – how are you enjoying the Pro 2? I ordered one on Wednesday, should be here sometime Monday. Super excited.

None more red…

Nice. Subtly different colour. I like it.

I’m sure we had one of these the other week. Here’s mine – crap photos, I need to take a decent camera outside. The overly long rear mech cable has been sorted since.

I built up mine the other month. 100mm will probably be fine on it, but it’s superb with a 90mm. The REBAS will work great on it too, though I’d recommend the 120mm (or 115mm) travel option – my local bike shop did it for me via instructions I found on the web, in 20 mins.

pedlad, you used the thumbnail version of your image. drop the th_ and the bit after.jpg and it’ll look like this… and very nice it is too, congrats.

Are these trails still OK and being maintained? Worth a visit from Glasgow?