The online link says that some are prone to failure or inconsistencies. I’ll call Dales in the morning. They do the Sell cannondale any more but seem to be an authorised service centre for Headshok

I got the same email and am wondering the same thing. My local dealer is Evans.

And to think, I’m a new roadie old MTBer.

I’ve only had it 6 months and it shares time with my roadbike. 400km would be more appropriate. :) edit. According to Strava, 616km. And one minor crash where I wiped out on the road. My elbows and hips protected my bike though!

I’ve ordered the 780 30mm. Hopefully the rise isn’t too much. I have my saddle up pretty high and find a lot of weight on my hands. The stock bars appear to be 15mm from the little specs I’ve found online. I reckon the extra rise and reduced sweep will suit me better.

Ps: Anyone interested in my Cannondale Carbon C1 riser for their alloy trigger. Seem to be £74 new so £40 Inc paypal and myhermes? They have 400k of light riding on them and no crashes.

Bonus question. Would it be a downgrade to go Alu Renthal rather than Carbon when replacing my Cannondale carbon bars? Edit: seems like carbon is worth it.

Anyone upgraded their bars to a Renthal Fatbar Carbon. I’m considering it to get a 20mm rise. Debating between the 740mm width and the 780mm. Not sure I can be bothered cutting the bars down to the fitted 760mm.

When you take the end cap off it comes out about an inch long like a tube. I filled it with grease then greased it’s threads and screwed it back in. I hope the buggered one doesn’t start squeaking cause that end cap is not coming out, it’ll be a new pedal. But it’s good so far.

Jonny my clicking turned out to be a pedal that needed greasing. Superstar flat pedal. Might be worth looking there. I think the SRAM BB on the carbon trigger is supposed to be pretty good.

Anyone else find that the recommended pressures for the Lefty are kinda high? I’m 78kg so the recommended pressure is around 70psi. When I run that I get about 20mm of sag and a firm fork. If I drop to between 55 and 60psi I get around during 40 to 45mm as recommended.

Jonny

I first shortened my cables as some were too long, especially the rear travel lever and the dropper. I also moved the rear brake over to the right of the steerer like a conventional bike. This reduced a lot of rubbing. Then I use a couple of cable ties (one looped around the Lefty, the other looped loosely around that tie and one of the cables, as a guide of sorts. I also have some helitape and some jag wire rubber cable thingies.

Clicking might be cables under BB. Make sure there is some slack. There’s a cable eye on the downtube near the pivots that you can use to secure the dropper cable before it enters the frame.

I’m in Glasgow. So no use.

I think you need to drive over to rockguardz for then benefit of this thread.

Can’t see how you could fit that. Even cutting the wee knobs off so that the inner surface is smooth, it has to sit atop cables.

Anyone fitted a zefal downtube protector to their Trigger carbon to protect from rock strikes. Looks like it might be good?

Crc link

It would probably flop up and down against the tyre every time you hit a bump. I might just try an old skool crud catcher.

Ashy that’s a nice alternative to mudguards. :)

I went for a nice 35k loop around Dumgoyne. Face and ass were covered in mud. The good news was the creak when climbing was cured by greasing the left Superstar pedal through the spindle cap. Can’t bring myself to get one of those silly whale tail rear mudguards and not too keen on the big mx style front guards either. Shame those little flex plastic enduroguard thingies do the fit the Lefty.

I like gaudy.

I made sure my cables were clear on the frame already so I don’t think it’s that. Also long since removed the sag indicator. Checked and the cranks seem tight. I noticed that the end cap on my pedals were a little loose, especially the drive side. It’s too wet to see if that was the problem, and I’m about to drive to France leaving the MTB in the garage. I guess I’ll report back in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the suggestions. I did also cable tie my dropper cable to the little boss on the tube just below where it goes into the frame. Odd that it only happens under power though. Seems like a BB, crank, pedal, or chairing issue. Happens on either chain ring which would seem to rule that out.

I can bounce around manically with no noise so it’s not bearings or shock.

Last night’s ride was cut short when I noticed I had very little travel up front on my Lefty. Bottomed out 40mm or more before the end result of the shaft with a clunk. I hoped all it needed was a bearing reset. The long ride home felt a little off as I was aware of a lack of damping and travel was short and soft.

It was the bearings. 5 min job and back to normal. Spent more time setting the sag than fixing the issue. Only dud about 500km which was less than I expected before needing the reset. On hindsight it probably needed it sooner. Might do it every couple months.

I also noticed a strange clicking, tapping sound when pedalling under load. Similar to the cracking sound of a slightly loose saddle. Sounds like it’s coming from the cranks, BB, or thereabouts. Any ideas. Does it seated or standing and only on inclines where there’s more effort through the pedals. The carbon models have SRAM BBC which are supposed to be pretty good so hopefully not that failing. Pedals are Superstar Nano X.

Cheers. Just checking with the experts on here. :)

Guys I just noticed the spacers under my stem on my Lefty are a little loose. No rattle but I can spin them with my fingers. I assume this is because there’s no compression nut on this type of fork and is no big deal.??

Cheers. Maybe I’ll put them back on.

Question for tubeless carbon 2 owners. When you insert the valves into the crossroc rims (which have that little olive in place that protrudes through the rim, are you also supposed to use the rubber o-ring, or does that olive supersede it?

I didn’t use the ring. Have looked at youtube vids, I decided to pop the ring on there, but it seems to me that it interferes with the olive so I reckon I should remove the ring again. Thoughts?

Went tubeless tonight. Surprisingly easy. Orange seal and and about 10 mins effort. Sore thumbs. Pumped up no bother with my Joe blow track pump. Leaving them overnight at 40 psi. If they stay up I’ll drop them to 27/29 F/R.

Was surprised there’s no rim tape on there. I gather mavic use some sort of insert?

Unrelated – is there a frame guard that fits under the down tube on the trigger carbon?

I just ordered a pair of GP4000S II from Mantel. Few pennies over £50 with free shipping. I went for the old man’s 28mm model.

That’s crappy crazymac. I’d be gutted, I certainly was when I had issues with my brakes. My shock has been great though. Hope it gets properly sorted this time, I wonder if they’ve re-assembled it incorrectly and somehow fudged up the seals on the long travel air chamber.

Check them out. Hope hubs fit that bill.

Ashy JRA build around the Cannondale hub. You can save yourself about £150 getting the wheels built up with Cannondale and XT hubs.

From the quick bit of research I did, the Arch seem to be trail wheels vs the flow being downhill. Both seem to be super stiff and strong, with the flow taking more abuse and weighing a bit more.

Action sports are a good find, I wonder how good they are? Good bit cheaper than elsewhere for wheels built on DT Swiss Hubs.

Ok. Another silly question. Should I try going tubeless? I have the valve kit that came with my crossroc equipped carbon 2. I have Michelin Wild Grip R tyres. What do I need to do? Is it worth it?

I think after the summer I might treat myself to a pair of Stans Arch Mk3 wheels with DTSwiss spokes from JustRidingAlong. Might even take the lefty hub off the crossroc to get the price down as I can’t imagine there’s much market for a Lefty Crossroc. The Stans seem to be well regarded and a pair will come in at less than £400 – closer to £300 if I supply the hub.

MBR found the Team to have flexy wheels too, and the brakes aren’t as good, despite being more expensive. So you probably made the right choice with 2, besides the red looks best. :D I’m one of those oddities that really likes the 2×10 setup.

I shed a lot of weight in the past 6 months and am down to 77kg and I can’t be bothered with tubeless. I’m just wondering if it’s the tyre pressures you are sensing more than the wheels flexing?

I’m wary of wheel upgrades because I don’t know whether I’ll actually notice it. I’m not feeling my wheels flexing. Is that because I’ve always had flexy wheels and don’t know better? Maybe if I rode a bike with stiffer wheels I’d get it. It’s certainly tempting to consider the upgrade.

Is it the wheel you feel flexing? Or the tyre in the narrow rim? I run around 35psi so my tyre doesn’t flex too much. I’m just not aware of the flexing, only researched it because MBR blamed their perceived nervousness of the bike on flexy wheels.

I’m pretty happy with mine. But there’s always another upgrade. Right?

Ashy I was looking at the Crossmax XL Supermax wheels online just today. Bookmarked for when I have more money than sense. Supposed to be good.

So what are peoples thoughts on stem length with this bike? I believe my carbon 2 comes with a 60mm stem, which is the shortest stem I’ve ever had on a bike and my be contributing, along with the wider bars, to much more confidence on the trails vs my old SC Superlight which had a 90mm stem and relatively narrow bars. The SC did have a riser on it, not sure by how much now – I’m guessing somewhere around 20mm.

My only complain with the Trigger is that my hands can get a little sore, like I am putting more weight on them than I should be. I don’t find it overly long, or short. Would a 45mm stem take pressure off my hands? I don’t find it so easy to get the front wheel up when approaching obstacles, yet I don’t feel too perched forwards on the tricky stuff either.

I recently put a 40mm Truvativ on my sons Btwin, but its way too small a bike for me to get a feel for what that does to geometry – his bike was way too long for him.

So, just in case it’s not been mentioned before, it turns out the little metal bar on the dyad sag indicator, the bit with the % scale stamped on it, it’s a push fit into the upper plastic mount of the indicator.

If like me, you hate the squeak that the sag indicator develops with the metal bar rubbing on the plastic loop, you can pull the indicator bar out of the mounting and stick it in your tool box when sag setting is done.

To set the sag again, rather than push it back really firm, I just push mine in a little bit until the first click – seems like it would fall out real easy. Then I adjusted the position of the little loop until the bottom edge of the loop lined up with the zero travel indicator line above the 30% mark and tighten that back up (I imagine you’d move that just once to compensate for the new position of the half inserted sag indicator bar.

Now I set my sag by making sure the bottom of the loop aligns with the centre of the white square, and when happy I pull the indicator bar, stow it in my tool box for safe keeping and ride without the squeaky indicator. It’s easier to be able to pop it in quickly from time to time to make sure the shock hasn’t lost pressure, rather than my previous fix which was to remove the entire indicator assembly, which takes more time to re-affix for a quick sag check.

Cheers guys.

Ssmith I don’t have any bearing squeak issues. I do find my chain gets creaky when dirty, more so than any other bike. A quick clean usually resolves that. I presume that’s just a quick of the 10 speed chain that I presume is narrower than my old 9.

Crazymac I can’t imagine falling off every few rides. You must be riding way harder than I. I feel like I’m getting too old and too busy at work to handle roadrash or broken bones. I’ve invested in some knee and elbow protection – hopefully I won’t feel to much of a muppet to wear it.