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Viewing 32 posts - 1 through 32 (of 32 total)
  • Greg Minnaar: Retirement 20 Questions with the GOAT
  • zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I thought of cutting down the top cap with a hacksaw and steerer tube cutting guide, but am not sure how to go about it as the top cap is slightly cone shaped

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I’m also trying to reduce the stack height of my 15mm FSA headset top cap. I bought one of these, but it doesn’t fit.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371184372364?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=640329695258&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&clk_rvr_id=1204961442991&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

    Has anyone tried any of the other options above and found that they work?

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    My silver thomson clamp cracked after about a year
    It wasn’t a qr so it didn’t get any real use, other than keeping the seatpost In place.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    @dogmatix. What size are your 5 tens and What size overshoes did you get for them? I’m really interested in trying out some overshoes but the ones I’ve tried wouldn’t fit over my shoes. Also don’t the pins on your pedals catch and rip the bit of the overshoes that wraps around the sole?

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Thanks for the info. My research so far identified the gp4 and duranos so it’s good to know that they’re recommended.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I like the look of that chain device, but I don’t have an ISCG frame.

    I’m wondering if I should just put on a new thick-thin chainring. Superstar are doing them for only £25 which is almost as cheap as their chain devices anyway.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Thanks for the info. The clutch is on – not sure how to tell if it still works though?

    There is still a definite difference between the thick and the thin teeth, just can’t tell if they’ve both lost a bit of thickness. Does the actual thickness matter or is it more important that there is still a difference between the thick teeth and the thin?

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    The Orange P7 looks like it’s a 1990s bike brought bang up-to-date with an inappropriate-for-the-frame 50mm stem and not-geometry-corrected 140mm clown forks

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Is the frame made from the off-cuts off of the cage behind holding the air cylinders? Not bad for £26.

    What about this bike – straight out of the circus? I think you would need a step ladder to get on it. A bargain at only £750

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I’ve thought about cutting it down, but when I sell the bike / forks in the future it will limit the options.

    I didn’t see the CRC ti-grey option. When I looked previously I thought the 1.5 only came in orange. Ordered the grey – thanks!

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Email sent. Cheers for the reply!

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    forgot to leave my email address

    zacgillbanks at yahoo dot com

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I’d even asked the mechanic if the problem was due to the limit screws and after inspection said the mech was worn!

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    There was a Hope T-Rex review in Singletrack and they said it started to wear pretty soon. Maybe steel or ti! would be the way to go.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Thanks for all the input. I might need to chop the chain as it was the correct length for a 36t chainring (I have a 34t now) and an SLX mech which is a lot longer than the Zee – never thought about that!

    Anyway, I adjusted the limit screw and within a minute the shifting problem was cured!

    Cheers again!

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Cheers, I’ll give it a go.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    great – cheers.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Hi Creamegg, it would be great if you have the spare parts. Let me know how much you want if you’d like to get rid of them.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Thanks for all the advice.

    I turned the b screw 1/2 a turn clockwise and have had a short ride out tonight.

    The problem seems to have been cured!! Cheers iffoverload

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I thought about the hanger but it looks ok – as far as I can tell.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Forgot to mention this is on an XT triple crank with the chainring in the middle ring position.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Ok, can you let me know the details. thanks

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I’ve had 2 Selle Italia SLR saddle rails crack on me. I think they’re ti (hollow). They were both on the same hardtail used mainly for road riding and gentle off-road (my winter bike). I weigh around 13.5 stone so I’m not super heavy. Wouldn’t buy another Selle Italia saddle.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    pic on flickr[/url]

    Not sure the exact weight of mine, but probably around 33lbs. Used to have lighter Fox 36 TALAS and DHX Air but weren’t as good as the coils on now.

    Have used it a little for Street, DH, Dirt Jumping, but mainly normal trail riding and road riding!

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Hi,

    I broke my wrist (schaphoid) about two years ago now. I broke it falling off my bike on ice during a solo night ride – bit silly I know.

    I broke it on the Monday night and had it in a cast and was riding (small) dirt jumps on the Saturday of the same week. I had to file the cast down a bit to be able to grab the bars but it worked out ok. Went street riding on the sunday (which hurt a bit) but pretty much rode normal trails ok with the cast on for a few weeks.

    It seemed to heal pretty quickly and now it is ‘almost’ as good as my un-broken wrist. I can still feel it a bit when carrying heavy shopping bags in one hand but its not a real issue.

    I don’t think I caused any more harm by riding too soon as most people seem to say any broken bone never feels as good as before.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    There’s a local urban loop I do almost every week – great in the winter when its muddy everywhere…

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Regarding the burn times, I’ve ridden my Trouted Hope 4 about 7 or 8 times now. I normally ride for about an hour or so and the battery hasn’t needed to be recharged yet.

    I normally vary the light between flashing, low and medium – only occasionally having it on full power. So I don’t have any specific burn time figures – sorry.

    I can say the light is bloody brilliant now off road and with it flashing at 2000 lumens certainly gets you noticed in traffic!

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I’ve also posted this in the Hope 4 thread as I’m not sure which one is ‘active’…

    I’d just like to give a shout of thanks to Troutie for XML’ing my Hope
    Vision 4 lights. They’ve gone from 960 lumens to around 2000 on max!!!
    I’ve only had the chance to try them out once but the light level and
    spread is fantastic, far superior to how they were before hand. Cheers
    Troutie – highly recommended!

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I’d just like to give a shout of thanks to Troutie for XML’ing my Hope
    Vision 4 lights. They’ve gone from 960 lumens to around 2000 on max!!!
    I’ve only had the chance to try them out once but the light level and
    spread is fantastic, far superior to how they were before hand. Cheers
    Troutie – highly recommended!

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    Have you just got it or did it arrive days ago? Cheers.

    zacgillbanks
    Free Member

    I’ve had mine for about a month and 6 or 7 rides. I have also noticed a few mm rotational play, but I’m not sure if it was like that from new. I don’t notice it when riding.

Viewing 32 posts - 1 through 32 (of 32 total)