Road.cc seems to agree! https://road.cc/content/review/270779-swissstop-disc-34-rs-pads

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/foldable-bike-lock-bordo-id_8130253.html

as it comes in a holster

For insurance purposes i can only use the Abus Granite 540 X Plus unfortunately :S

One of these might work (been looking for a solution myself).

Looks great, as long as the lock doesn’t dangle around horizontally too much? Reviews would be helpful.

I also use 28c Schwalbe Durano’s. IIRC they’re ~250g and the last pair lasted well over 6k miles before I got an egg in one.

I wouldn’t bother with tubeless if I didn’t care about rolling resistance and to a much lesser degree weight. I’d just get some mega puncture proof slow and heavy tire.

But I want to have my cake (go as fast as possible) and eat it too (use the bike for getting around town in all sorts of weather without punctures). The best tire for this seems to be the 5000 TL – pump it up to 100 psi to go super fast on smooth roads, leave it at 80-90 psi for day to day.

My tyres unseat at around 10/20psi – roval tubeless rims and Hutchinson performance / 5000 / IRC tyres.

From my understanding now, unseating is normal and perhaps only doesn’t happen on Mavic rims + tires? Question is if more rim tape will help.

opted to patch with a traditional patch on the inside

What patches do you use? I know there are tubeless specific ones

Also a tip, wait a few minutes before going up to high psi to help ensure the plug stays.

I always take them out when back home now as well, and replace with a mushroom plug, it’s a far better long term solution.

Seems nice and more robust than just patches, which ones do you use (for road tires)?

Made the jump, follow up here https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/continental-5000-tl-farsports-tl-ready-60-mm-rims-noob-case-report/

After some growing/learning pains all seems good, apart from the 5000 TLs deseating (dropping into the center channel) at sub approx 25 psi – ideally it wouldn’t unseat all the way down to flat. One suggestion has been to add a layer of rim tape to tighten the fit. Seems like farsports favored easy seatability over deseating protection designing these.

Yes orange seal endurance, just installed the tires couple days ago, maybe they will glue to the rim more over time.

Heard one suggestion to use a layer of rim tape to tighten the fit.

Or not locked enough I guess, as it is locked to some degree. No descents here but can hit 60 kmh during sprints. I do run fairly high 80-90 psi pressure so that might add some safety margin.

A puncture shouldnt unseat the tyre unless it’s a large gash i reckon and it gets down to sub 30 psi very fast.

Redid the rear, cleaned the rim and tire, installed the valve with the round grommet.

Seated without adding any soapy water, quite nice, expect it will hold up well, no issues with the test ride.

Note that this combo still makes the tires deseat at sub 30 psi, not ideal so you have to be quick.

The tires still deseat when going down to 0, but stay seated until maybe 30 psi.

Got both the CO2 and the carbon race kit, for the jersey and one for the backpack.

I’d have to question teh aeroz too, I know you’re on an aero bike and in a skin suit but if you’re heaving on the bars to generate those watts and potentially throwing yourself about through corners you’ll struggle to maintain such a slippery shape on the bike surely… Maybe if you were using clip-ons?

I say just have a go and report back. Your KOM hunting is sort of intriguing, did you ever score that bridge segment?

The way to do it is to sprint (standing) up to your target speed, then for 1 min or longer segments hit the segment at that speed hunkering down in an aero drops or even hoods position depending on your mobility (drops with back straight is marginally faster but a lot less comfy and it can be hard to put the power down).

Yeah I did get the bridge and other segments around here, I’ll go Berlin’s most contested climb soon Teufelsberg – 7% and just a bit longer than 1 min which isn’t ideal for my BW but will be a fun challenge.

n0b0dy0ftheg0at: thanks, think it’s fairly clear I’m closest to a track sprinter like slowoldman suggests.

Don’t put yourself down like that. They are high, so you’re clearly at international pro level. Well done.

Thanks, but to be at international pro level you also need a high FTP for a road cyclist or higher numbers for a track sprinter.

Experienced my second road tubeless nightmare, 5 minutes into my first ride – already late to meet friends, the rear flatted, somehow it hadn’t seated correctly even though it kept 80 psi just fine before.

I had loosened the valve lockring before so I could remove it by hand, but when the tires deflated there was no pressure pushing the valve out and it was impossible to remove by hand, after 10 minutes I figured out that I could use two plastic tyre levers squeezed against each side of the lockring and use them as a spanners – worked a charm. Then had to wrestle to get the tire onto the rim again, this time covered in orange seal – have a blister to show for it.

Front is doing fine. Reinstall the rear tomorrow..clean up the rim and tire then use the round valve rubber thing, screw the lockring on only hand tight, and try orange seal instead of dishwashing liquid to help seat it :S

11.36 w/kg for one minute is absolutely world class

Wait what, even with the (prob not fully transferable) fanbike result of 904w / 88 kg = 10.27 w/kg tops. It’ll take a second to get to avg 1000 w in 1 minute..

Track sprinters often have abysmal FTPs and optimize for around 1 minute efforts (the kilo)

I got the impression the corner in question is on a flat purpose built track so is likely to have no obstacles to hit.

Yes, it’s in a field, worst you’ll hit is some shrubbery or rollerblading berliners (jk wouldnt do it when there are other ppl on track).

I have since gotten stronker 💪

Garmin is from the 4iii crank based powermeter (if anything they are a bit low as my left leg is weaker). I don’t think they’re that high, high is >2000 watts peak and 1000 watts 1 minute for someone my weight.

Sorry, us english here!

I use 58mm farsports and schwalbe pro one tubeless. I’ve never had a tire unseat when deflating, if anything it can be a struggle to push the tire off the hook.

Sounds good, heard deseating when installing is normal.

So you’re putting out more power over 20s than an elite sprinter like Viviani?

Ahaha love the doubters! Elite (track) sprinters have way more power than I, 1000 watts over 1 minute for sure and > 2200 watts peak.

It’s not so hard to believe I can outpower Viviani (probably measured at the end of a 3 hr race) with fresh legs at 88 kg bw, I aim and train to get to 1000 w 1 min and 2000 w peak power. Not as ambitious with FTP, but > 300 w would be nice :> Watts/kg? Forget it.

People are saying tires seat better after riding them for a bit, so perhaps there’s hope and a mini pump is a fine option.

I should add – every tubeless tyre I’ve used has come unseated during installation but stayed in place in use.

I really hope so!

Also – do you want to have to use pliers to take the valve out by the side of the road if you end up having to put a tube in?

Very good point, argh..

You’ll probably find that once the tyre is seated properly this won’t happen.

It does happen with my tire at least when initially installing it, maybe it will seat better over time who knows.

Tyres take more than a loss of pressure to become unseated

My tires are super tight and get unseated if they lose a lot of pressure :/

I also doubt your 1m power 🙂

Going to hit the only > 1 min hill here in Berlin soon, so we shall see – 904 watts on the echo bike is not easy. Garmin connect shows 745 watts on the flats with the roadbike never having really tried for max 1 min on it, guesstimate >850 watts sprinting up a hill.

Nah, worst you’ll likely do is your shoe hitting the ground first, and if you hit the cleat it’s nice and rounded + AERO WOOT.

Given rogue don’t have a model with a PM your data is spurious at best

Doubt I can put out the power eyh? See if I can borrow some powermeter pedals and we can test how close it is (anyone want to ship me some? :>, I reckon it’s fairly accurate as the echo bike is known to be the stingiest of all the fanbikes (airdyne, assbike etc) with its watts and my sub 10 second power on the road aligns well with what I can do on it.

What narrow(aero) pedal for Max lean angle on my pointless non achievements perhaps ?

Speedplays.

No one spotted this typo?

They are beginning to BeLiEvE, anyways i said it was on a fanbike (just pedaling)

Haven’t really gotten to try it properly on the roadbike as the only 1 minute long straightish hill around here is on the other side of town sadly, but reckon I could do 800 watts at least, have done 745w on straights.

I’d be more worried about getting an asbo offf the velominati for your irregular freehub sound

That’s all in the past, got the glorious Newmen Fade hub, 100% satisfied. Melted the DT350 into an aluminum block.

Curious why you think 56kph must be an ebike.

No power, no HR, but more suspicious is that his username is “XXX with an ebike”, people have tried to flag it in the past but it still stands. Of course you could get it naturally given that the corners won’t kill ya even without and special gear or drafting.

You could also watch this

The GCN video on this is rubbish I did watch it: no speed, no corner angle/length and the guy just decided to fall of on purpose at the end. Plus it’s about cornering without pedaling (pedaling upsets balance a lot).

The corners are each 250m? You’ll be able to pedal flat out.

At least 200 meters, yes they’re long. Seems I’m not likely to slam into the ground, what’s more likely is pedal strikes and then being ejected off the track.

You need TT aero and won’t want to corner aero at that speed!

I have the power and I’m aero enough without TT bars (CdA calculated to 0.25 in a skin suit, 1 min avg power 904 watts on a fanbike bit less on the road), but yeah, don’t want to slam into tarmac at 55 km/h as I prefer my bones unbroken.

Maybe I should just let this one go.. cost vs benefit ratio doesn’t look very good here

Sheldon Brown has looked into it https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/descending.html

Says 35 degrees is about max when pedaling?

Seems like 20 ml is the minimum (5000 TL can be run without sealant), maybe start at 30 ml and see what the air loss is, then go up to 60 ml and see it air loss is less pr week once stabilized.

Think a little petroleum jelly would also work well for helping seat the tire well, works with tubed ones. Will be interesting to see how hard it is to get on and get seated (only have a normal pump and normal tire levers, no koolstop tire jacks).

Going for the Dynaplugs for additional puncture repair, wonder if I should get something more permanent too? Like the TIP TOP TT13 tubeless repair kit?

Read the Endurance version doesn’t dry up quickly and works well with high pressures.

This. Sounds like OCD to me.

Sounds like presbycusis to me.

Did you see/hear the 54T video? It sounds like the rear wheel would explode into bits with an insanely loud uneven BZZZZ zzzz ZZZ zzzz amplified by the deep carbon rims, the video didn’t do justice to how bad it got at high speeds. Once aware of this I wasn’t happy with just muting the sound a bit with the 24T ratchet.

Maybe you don’t mind bottom bracket creak or random sounds from your bike – YMMV.

Problem solved, got the wheel rebuilt with the Newmen Fade hub, shop reused spokes and brass nipples and total cost after selling the old hub was £160.

Might add a bit more grease to it to turn down the volume, but none of the extreme oscillating sound the DT had, lower weight and 33 POE.

Got the PRO SL with the narrow pad and very happy, miles better than the Rapha Core bib IMO.

£250 well spent 😳

£161 factoring in selling the old hub, plus shaves off a bit of weight not that it matters but hey.

It’s a bit loud, but not too bad and can turn the volume down by adding a bit more grease, thank lord it doesn’t have the oscillating buzz of the DT.

€285 later including labor, the solution – Newmen Fade

I always carry half of one with my spare tube, just in case I have to limp home with a sidewall tear

Yeah seems like a nice product, don’t think regular patches are that good for sidewall tears as they’re too elastic.

Some people report superglue hardening and puncturing the tire, so either way you probably want an interior patch.