Happy to hear it worked, here in Germany it got too snowy to ride by some miracle..

Appreciate it! Already ordered this one, plus im in Germany..

12 mm, yes going to shim the axle on the trainer (there’s a thru axle adapter that screws into it, it can be shimmed w a 1 mm spacer) – something like this

The cassettes are the same length about 40 mm not including the lockrings, but the length from the seat of the freehub body to axle hole was 1 mm shorter on the Suito, so I need to find a 16 mm ID 22 MM OD 1 mm thick shim that extends the drive side

Hmm I measured the distance from the frame to the smallest sprocket on the turbo on with the wheel installed, the sprocket on the suito cassette (R5800 11-28) is exactly 1 mm closer to the frame than on the bike (R7000 11-32) – so I would have to shim the bike cassette to get closer which I don’t really like as it degrades the chainline in the smallest sprocket..

Or could it be the cassettes that are different.. lengths?

Whatever tickles your pickle regarding the OP but I’d focus on other things way before I start worrying about stem flex..

Think we got to the conclusion that unless you have flex-free bars stem flex is likely not going to be a factor and even if you do have nobody has measured the effect on peak wattz – modern stems are for most part pretty non-flexy.

Shut the Front Door, surely not THE bridge over THAT river? Man, if only they all knew!!!!

It’s the spree, very famous river around these parts :p

And yet so many people race without injury!

Yes so few crashes in Cat 5..

BTW Strava is not a race, it’s a competition, unless you’re cheating and getting KOMs in a race :p

Not everyone’s a dentists who likes to play bumper carts.

So you’ve not raced and yet you’re worried about your stem flexing and losing you watts?

Who says Strava is not a race??

Also, since my bars flex i dont think the stem is the weak link here and a stiffer one wouldnt make much difference..so ive given up on this idea..for now..

Unless you are very undertrained or havent properly tested the existing numbers that you quote I’m afraid that you have no chance with either of your wattage ambitions.

Am I undertrained? Yes.

Have I properly tested them? No, will do it this summer.

Results? A few sub 2 min KOMs against lazy Berliners. Would get smoked way before the sprint in any cat race probably, but working on improving my 20 min power..

I still think leg strength can get you a long way towards 2000w peak, just get big enough legs and it’s easy! 1000W for 1 minute on the other hand is say 50% VO2 max so you need pretty great cardiovascular fitness.

they are paid to so people like you buy them?

Sagan used the zipp sprint and covered the logo as he was not sponsored by zipp..

More confidence = more watts?

Why do sprinters use stems like the Zipp Sprint then? Tricked by the marketing dept? ;)

1700w sprinting is top. Gaining 300w top end is probably impossible unless you are young?

I consider myself a bit of a sprinter, have won a 2/3/4 bunch sprint and I top out at about 1300w, probably less now, but thats a 1 second peak, 10 seconds best is probably more like 900w.

Anyway, I’m not sure that a flexy stem costs watts unless it is really flexy, watts come from your legs not your arms and there is probably more flex in the handlebars than the stem? If it flexes one way it cost energy, but potentially spring back the other way giving that lost energy back, helping with rhythm? I might be talking nonsense.

I’ve noticed carbon bars flexing under power, but never a stem.

Pro sprinters are probably using long stems to get aero, which will likely be much more important than flex?

Not so young anymore at 38, but I think I can get there with more leg strength work which I’ve neglected (squats etc) and high cadence drills, keep in mind that the number is with fresh legs.

1 minute power is 745W, goal is 1000 watts which may be a stretch..(harder than 2000w 1s!).

I run the prime primavera 40 cm carbon aero bars and yes there’s some flex in those, maybe a stem won’t make any difference as you flex the bars before the stem? Running a 130 mm one -16 degrees.

Just 1 second and at 85 kg so not great..

Maybe I should buy a zipp stem and do some testing then return it when it doesn’t make a difference :p

you can modulate the brakes easily, they’re not on/off switches.

I meant during emergency breaking. If you live somewhere hilly 160 rear could make sense, but I live somewhere flat so they don’t, but it’s not a huge difference either way and mostly comes down to aesthetic preference.

The flat mount RX4 only goes down to 160 mm, you generally want 140 mm rear on a roadbike as it saves a smidgen of weight and aero drag, plus it reduces the risk of locking up the rear (less power can be more) (AAAND it looks better..)

Only 160 mm rotors no 140 mm AFAK, so I won’t bother for my roadbike.

Did some testing, seems they only draw 2A at 5V so 10 watts, a small 180g 10000 mah / 40 Wh powerbank will then give up to 4 hours runtime – not bad! Temperature the pad reaches averages around 35C like stated.

@hainman Chinese seller: https://www.ebay.de/itm/USB-Electric-Heating-Vest-Jacket-Pads-for-DIY-Heated-Thermal-Clothing-NEW/143907006671?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D8741a1ffc3f948eb9046e08f61777528%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D254779840203%26itm%3D143907006671%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3D%21it&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

There are a bunch

@johnnystorm yes seems to go through battery fast, will try to measure how much running time I get from a 40Wh one..in theory i should get 2 hours (5V * 3A max output so 15W).

@robbie each wire from the usb plug to the start of the pad is 115 cm.

35C is not enough to catch fire – it’s just two wires connected to a graphite cloth – powerbanks have short circuit protection too so I wouldn’t worry.

I have a powermeter but the breaking bit is worrisome, but hey if they send me a flux 2 when it breaks that’s allright!

@yetidave

Yes approx, a higher resistance trainer would be better as you’d reduce wheel speed and could stay in a better gear (straighter chain etc) plus do higher gradient simulated climbs.

To heck with it, ordered a new Tacx boost they claim up to 1050w resistance at 40 kph so should give at least 2100w at 80 kph muhaa (magnetic trainers tend to be linear).

On CRC there are reviews saying it offers very little resistance

It goes up exponentially with rpms so it’s ok if you have enough gearing but def a problem for one by mountain bikes (52×11 66 rpm = 400w and 40 km/h, 138 rpm = 1400W 80 km/h).

@boombang yes could very well be although reviews are good and it seems fairly sturdy. Perhaps if I do my intervalls at the beginning it won’t be a problem.

Think I’ll have to go direct, beefy-magnetic or electromagnetic in the future. Kurt Kinetic does however state that their road machine has been tested up to 3000w (at some infernal cadence presumably).

Hmm seems sparingly applied ceramic wet lube could be better as it should give more corrosion protection (minimal gunk when excess is wiped off as instructed and doesn’t need to be reapplied THAT often). One review about Fenwick pro mentioned it.

“Excellent in Summer, not so good in Autumn. Good value. Survives a few light showers better than any dry lube – and lubricates brilliantly. Tenaciously sticks to clean chains. Gives a really slick feel to the mechanism. Pretty clean. Really good for UK Spring and Summer. Tends to resist grit too.
One long ride in a heavy downpour and its washed off though, so I found it unsuitable as an autumn/winter lube – I use ceramic wet lubes through the Winter. “

delet

I have seen snapped quick links more than once from being used multiple times

Whipperman connex quick links are reusable, need no tools to remove or install (golden coating makes it easier to spot too), you have 10,11 and 12 speed versions. Never broken one works perfect with shimano chains, basically my favorite bike part.

Anyone else tried it? Trying to figure out if better than the Teflon Performance version.

Finish line wetlube is super grimy.

@allanoleary

Just cracked open a bottle of Muc Off wet ceramic. Too early to tell if it’s amazeballs as yet but for the money it wants to be

Let me know how it works!

Weldtite TF2 – great allrounder and very cheap (you’re not saving any money on putoline nor time, much better suited than it for roadbikes), doesn’t get gunky, but perhaps washes off a bit too easy in winter conditions – saw rust spots this season.

Weldtite Endurance Ceramic – Currently testing, seems smoother than TF2 and is dead silent, will see if it offers a better protection in the wet. They key I hear (as is instructed) is to clean off all excess so it doesn’t gunk up.

Here’s a test where they figured Synthetic gear oil did better than all bicycle chain lubes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnPYdcbcAe0

bump

Aaand the only one i could find was a used lifeline tt-02 for £100..

Seems like the answer is whichever I can find..

Oh and I’ve met 80 year olds out clubbing here, they always get let in by the bouncers too..

Techno is still going strong here in Berlin, part of what makes it special here is the real culture around the dancing and dancers (there are even different sub styles you often see in panorama bar vs berghain) unlike almost anywhere else in the world which adds a LOT to the party – it becomes an improvised techno ballet at its best and dancers are given room center stage.

Look awful but who cares.

Not as awful as pogies!