A few options! I think ripstop or equivalent material would be good. Needs to be waterproof. I wish madison disclosed more technical details.

Patagonia Alpine Houdini® Jacket 139 USD 201g
H2No® Performance Standard shell: 2.5-layer,
1.9-oz 30-denier 100% nylon ripstop with a waterproof/breathable barrier and a DWR (durable water repellent) finish.

VERSALITE JACKET 135 USD 189 g
<2.5-layer DRY-TEC™ technology  (Water resistance : 20,000 mm / Breathability : 15,000 g/m²/ 24 hrs)
15-denier Ballistic Airlight rip-stop nylon

Outdoor Research Helium II 140 USD 180 g
YKK® AquaGuard® Zippers
Pertex® Shield+ 2.5L
100% nylon 30D ripstop

Madison Roam 65 GBP 620g
Unknown zippers
Unknown fabric?

Alpine Patagonia Houdini seems like the de facto standard. 100 grams or so, its ripstop nylon is durable ppl say.

Nice thanks for sharing. The last pair of Velo Oranges ordered, they said horizontal stiffness should be way better than the bluemels (from beefier stays and metal construction).

Aesthetically it’ll be an upgrade to IMO, bluemels look a bit flimsy on a 2″ tire bruiser!

It’s hard to say, I’ve asked fresh stripe what they think (biased?) but from just manually trying to flex fenders the models with beefy stays seem better given the same fender width. If the stays were beefy enough there would be absolutely 0 horizontal play if directly affixed to the fork/frame I think that follows logically.

I tried to hold the qr in place and it didn’t seem to make too much difference.

Thanks Slowster. from what I’ve felt, two thin stays is much much less rigid than one beefy “all the way around the fender” one (from feeling up various display bikes :S), but yes also depends on the angle.

I found this bike with 2.00″ tires and the Oranges – looking spiffy!

Thanks ton, they have the Velo Orange 52mm zeppelin mudguards which COULD work, my Bluemels are 53mm and it’s a tight fit, my tires 49mm wide. But why must they use leather? Arg.

http://freshtripe.co.uk/velo-orange-52mm-zeppelin-mudguards-650b/

Tesa 4289 seems to be the answer, nice point about residue! How many layers do you need?

Better to over than underthink it!

I don’t have any interest in tubeless, seems like more hassle to apply and take off in the case of spoke repair.

Nope, not bollocks.

Precondition 1: I don’t get punctures with tubes and I use tires that take about 2-3 years to wear out.

So in my case: tubeless is more expensive, a lot more faffing about with refilling gunk and inflating tires every week or two compared to every 2 months with good tubes. Literally no benefit other than “improved feel”, which I’m not sure is anything but placebo.

A) Lol. Tubeless leaks air more than any tubed system except for latex. Flats are a non issue and weight difference is negligible. Plus you gotta replace the goop inside every few months. Tubeless is ridiculous for a commuter unless you’re commuting through spike strips.
B) I wrote weight was NOT a priority, heavy tubes are already under 250 grams! Question is what’s best.

Yeah I need to look into it, pump it up and submerge? It’s only 15 psi pr week.

NEW RULE
You’re not allowed to cyber bully without posting a goddamn bik..cycle yourself, damn trolls. Here’s what it actually looks like:

I think you can have your cake and eat it too – commute bikes can be fun :mrgreen: Believe it or not but I’ve come to think (properly fitted and not clip on) mudguards can look sick. Rear light is integrated in seatpost so it needs to be a bit long. You can still wheelie and manual your heart out.

4 lols

Knipex pliers are damn sharp!There was some white threadlocker on, believe that’s what you see in the center.

I tried to unscrew it, but wouldn’t budge using a normal plier and no heat. Nice way to mess up the red anodizing though :oops:

Interesting! What does the axle look like without the handle?

Found one from Hadley https://www.balleracing.com/hadley-front-hub-thru-bolts/hadley-thru-bolt-9mm-x-100mm which you could add hexlocks to for a secure system. You only need to unscrew one side so almost as practical as the DT swiss system. Only problem is you can only get it from the us.. $$$

They have them for 12 mm axles but haven’t seen any for 9 mm!

Mavic Aksium can be had for around 30 euro and so far has handled temps around 0 just fine given that I’ve kept the rest of my body warm! Quite good dexterity. That said, the Planet X Lobster at 15 pounds seem like a warmer option!

Lot of chaps at MTBR vote for EBC Gold, although some say they have fit issues :roll:

Lots of rain here, so sintered seems to be the way to go. Swissstop 17 sintered seems to be the best best, but is almost 2x more expensive that Avid sintered.

Thanks, and how about air leakage compared to tubes? Personally I like to run around 60 psi so it’s in the interface between mtb and road pressures.

What do you mean ride feels better? Ride is plenty fine on road w tubes so im not sure I’d even be able to tell the difference.

It’s just a very inelegant and impractical solution to mess w refilling sealant every 6 months and having to check pressure often. Tubes are set and forget, no hours of fiddling around and cheaper.

Might revisit it if better sealant or better sealant free tire rim combos become avail.

Ok nevermind going with tubes.. almost got fooled there!

Wondering if I should just get tubes.. Cheaper, less maintenance, not really in a big risk of punctures anyways. Won’t need a special pump..

Good tip on WTB sealant, allegedly relabeled and much cheaper Stans.
Guess I might want to get some rim tape just in case.

Get a customized BTR

Getting the DT RWS for front and rear w Hope adapters, seems like the best solution. Now I def need to be locking my wheels wherever I go..

I’m wondering though, with normal 5 mm QRs you get some protection from the wheel falling out even if the QR loosens. Will this be gone with through axle qrs?

Seems like the 9mm through axle is sensible here, but hard to find steel ones (in black!). You’d think it was the other way around.

I decided to givve the Refuse a try as they seem quite sturdy and look guth, not too bad at 35 eur w free shipping.

Yes I’ve looked at them, rolling resistance differences not so important, regarding weight, lighter is better but I value puncture resistance and durability more. Leaning toward the Refuse atm, the G-ones seem a bit fragile.

I do ride like a maniac (with safety focus)..

Compass Switchback Hill TC……..413g 70€ tubeless
Schwalbe G-One………………………500g 46€ tubeless
Panaracer Gravel King……………..520g 36€ tubeless
Continental Contact Speed ??Perf…570g 17€
MAXXIS Refuse……………………….610g 35€ tubeless
Schwalbe Maraton Supreme………640g 33€ grooves
WTB Thickslick…………………………710g 36€ order from US only
Schwalbe Big Ben Raceguard…….745g 22€ grooves

Thanks for the compass tip, bit over my budget and I might want something a bit heftier (black sidewalls only avail in extralight hehe)

Yes, they come in 48mm/1.9 at 520g. 36 euro each.

Great find! The G-one is 500 grams, tubeless comp and 46 euro. Expensive but could be a winner.

The other option is carrying it up 6 flights of narrow stairs erryday.

Yeah I guess a chain is a good alternative. Using a beefy u lock to lock the rear wheel and frame and chain thing for the front wheel.

Think i’d like to go with hope, widely available and convertible!

Yes the hope 2 evo 135 mm should work it seems, and the 142 long hub converts down to 135 too.

Hola! Thanks for the replies.

Budget under 250 pound, which means I can get a hope wheelset used. I just need to make sure it’s compatible w shimano 11 speed and can be converted from 135×10 to 142×12!

Would Hope Pro 2 Evo do the trick? I see it comes in 135 and 142 mm width, can 135mm be converted to work in 142 mm frames?

I will use 2 layers of wheel theft prevention.