Working on it!

They seem to go on top of each other no matter what i do. Could they be damaged? Hard to tell since so small.

Could the bearings be undersized? You can feel that the bearings “catch” even before you tighten down the nuts on the non-drive side so something seems off. Or might it be finicky to get a perfect “fit” when you insert the axle from the drive side?

For sure, I measured my arse bones and they are 120 mm apart, going to test a Phenom 143 mm and see. The Bel Air V2 could be a good option too, just saw several people disliking it compared to the V1.

Going to test the Phenom, people say it’s more comfy than the Spoon and overall reviews are excellent.

Specialized’s 4 contenders, liked their saddles in the past..no idea how they compare to the Charge Spoon!

A softer saddle isn’t necessarily more comfortable; is your bike fit completely dialled in?

It is in my case, I ran the Trailmaster on it before the Lynx which has more padding. I might get some padded underwear for eventual longer trips. Not gotten fit completely dialed in.

Here’s what I’ve read so far, SDG Bel Air is comfier than Charge Spoon, but avoid the 2.0 version of the SDG – the OG one looks a bit dated.

Specialized Romin and FIZIK ALIANTE VERSUS also recommended for road use.

Brooks saddles are a bit heavy, not a weight weenie, but don’t see the need to go above 300 grams (Trailmaster).

It does have a somewhat flexy seatpost and seatstays to help with comfort so it’s not terrible, but the Lynx is too hard.

When it’s wet, or dirty ie during a cross race then every pair I’ve had have done it. Rival hydro, Shimano rs505, hope v-twin. All

Yep. 105s also rub when real gritty outside. I wonder if it’s the rotors, calipers or pads that gunk up and create rub? Could pad or rotor choice matter?

Ordered a Sugio Midzero, see how it works.

Wheels ordered, see how this turns out!

It is specialized for a reason. A good pair of roubaix fabric bib tights with a good pad are the best thing for riding in winter by far. They are however shit for anything else, mainly because they are not made for anything else.

I don’t need that amount of specialization, it’s not -10C here and I’m not riding across Germany!

kind of think you just need to accept that getting changed is a good idea.

How exactly? Buy another specialized piece of clothing adding to the pile of stuff you own and waste even more time at the gym? What’s next, summer and winter sunglasses?

Going to dechathlon and trying stuff out is a good tip though, no foot loops or unpadded bicycle tights there but they might have some decent running ones. Generally I think the tip of going to a store is good in this case. Shorts over tights at times when it’s convenient btw (don’t need to max out aero when jogging as it is strictly for training and not transport ;)

Is it so hard to change tights when getting to gym?

I’d rather not hence this thread.. is it so hard to come up with a pair or “autumn” bike tights with no or minimal padding? I’d go for the OZZO ones if they had my size.

– Tights with some compression (ron hill tracksters are out, basically slimfit sweatpants)
– Foot loop is a plus (I don’t think they could hurt my squatting! also you can often just cut it off if it turns out to be an issue)
– Water resistant is a plus
– No or very minimal padding

Something like this seems ideal

Only avail in too large sizes.

Running tights aren’t reinforced in the arse, otherwise ok, have some adidas summer ones but would like something one step warmer, maybe the ronhills could work here if they’re decently waterproof.

You’ll roast in the gym in bike tights.

Mostly do powerlifting and not that much roasty stuff, just a normal pair of tights with minimal or no padding should work.

These? Look nice but was thinking just tights not a full bib.

Tried some tights from decathlon but they had waay to much padding, like wearing a diaper.

The ones I was thinking of were ~$20 more expensive and added a bit of weight

Do you have a model name? The one they specced is FSC60CM-25T

Still think your mad

Yeah the winds here are 35 km/h today, but it it doesn’t work out at least I should be able to resell them.

@thisisnotaspoon right I came to the same conclusion, why risk it for a few grams. Unfortunately they only have 24 hole rims, but perhaps getting rims with no holes in the rim bed will make em a bit stronger?

Rim: 60 mm deep 25 mm wide U-shape disc, UD matte, 24/24H, Tubeless (no holes in rim bed) clincher compatible, 565 grams
Hubs: DT350 straight pull center lock disc, Thru axle 12×100 12×142 Shimano freehub 10/11s, 54T ratchet
Spokes: Sapim CX-Sprint black
Nipples: Sapim Brass nipples black

@aberdeenlune I don’t really commute, but ride 3-4 times a week. If strength alone was what I wanted I’d stick with my Shimano RS 170.

Thx – Yep farsports say 120 kg is the limit for their 60 mm 24 hole wheelsets, they do offer a lighter and possibly stronger rim (but the limit states the same) for $200 more so not sure about that.

Wonder what spokes would be ideal here, CX rays, sprint (not forged like rays?), DT aero or DT aerolite (too expensive) and whether alu or brass nipples would be better, Sapim goes on about their alu nipples being the shiz.

Looks like farsports only stock 24H hmm, think you can compensate by using thicker spokes? e.g. CX sprint (not forged?) over rays, or DT aero new over aerolite?

Yeah I guess, 4 extra spokes pr wheel isn’t much more than 25 grams extra pr wheel.

Oh I’m sorry I think you didn’t understand “Here with brake track and non disc hubs.” as the photo being for illustrative purposes as farsports doesn’t have a photo of the exact combination I’m speccing. Hope that made it clear for you :)

Now:
24 or 28 spokes front/rear with 160 mm rotor 105s and 90-100 kg of rider?
Does it matter if you use larger CX Sprint vs CX ray spokes?

Surely if going max aero then you’ll be running 20c tubs ?

Heck why not just skip tires altogether and get some 18 mm wide rims?

Wondering if a 28mm wide rim would be better than a 25mm one, the GP5000 ends up being 27 mm wide..

As long as they’re fairly robust seems like a good deal, haven’t hit a curb or pot hole in forever.

Scribe’s are interesting, almost the exact same wheelset and price as the DT Swiss 1600 with a 54t sprocket, similar marketing jizz as Hunt, but without the reputation DT has (and DT makes their OWN wheels, spokes, nipples and rums) why risk it?

Hi superstar! Can you make a 50 mm alu disc wheelset under 1800 grams? ;p

The DT 1600 32 edurance wheels (hubs allegedly a lightened DT350, but white why the hell :|) for just £306, you do get DT aero spokes. 1767 grams according to DT so a bit heavier due to to heavier spokes used (wheelproject weight is with the lightest spokes).

Not saying Hunt wheels are bad, they seem fine and look great, just that DT seems like clearly better value. I don’t think the DT logos are easy to remove though, read about people soaking them in toluene?!

So far the DT Swiss RR521 32 mm Disc / DT Swiss 350 Centerlock Straightpull wheelset get my pick, deeper than Hunt, prefer DT hubs to Novatecs. 1650g £330 built. Don’t really get why anyone would pick hunts over full DT wheelsets that often comes out cheaper apart from aesthetics.

sillyoldman

Hunt are a triumph of marketing over content. Made up from parts you would be highly unlikely to select yourself with the original brand names on them.

If I were in your position, I’d get a custom built set from a quality wheel builder or a factory set from a brand that actually makes stuff. Build quality is at least as important as component quality…

DT wheels are built in their own factory in Poland from components they’ve designed and made rather than picked from a catalogue.

It was about cheap carbon deep section wheels, but they might not be good all rounders if they’re as prone to cracking as some say.

Thanks! Not disc though? Not black.

Didn’t mention I’ve got an Alu ALR model, not affected by this!

My concern is their resistance to impact damage, from curbs or pot holes. I’m 91 kgs and sometimes ride with another 10 kgs on my back. Seems like carbon wheels generally aren’t the right tool if you risk impact (potholes are rare here, but..).

DT has nice 32 mm deep section alu rims, maybe one at the front and a disc cover on the back?

Here’s farsports £500 offer at 1340 grams w novatech hubs which seems dangerously light, nearly no specs at all, much worse than CSC in that regard. DT350 is only $52 extra. Duty prepaid is $50 extra.

That they arrived in the post, doesn’t prove much.

People mostly review when they receive items yes, but they also leave negative ones if their wheel blows up (unsurprisingly). If their wheels was shit it would reflect in the reviews.

They’re substantially lighter than DT as well, about 150g lighter for the pair

And that makes them better? Lol, that makes them weaker.

1 year long term review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zC6wLEIOCxE
Review/advice dealing with vat https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYiHvTbd24A

Negative review, delaminated (although the guy kept using them after two crashes and it was during emergency rimbrake breaking, so not applicable to my use case) https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=133976

Rim cracked from riding into rocks, “While the hubs seem fine, the build excellent and the ride outstanding, there is zero impact resistance. As such they are just not fit for purpose.” again, i’m using them for road not rock riding, so should be fine for me as long as I don’t slam into curbs or pot holes – no pot holes here but something to keep in mind – I wouldn’t get carbon rims for rough terrain or roads.
https://www.rotorburn.com/forums/index.php?threads/carbon-speed-cycle-wheels-review.311370/