What about loosing the 54t and putting in a 36t.

Yeah may be nicer, see what I can do with what I have first – waiting for new springs and spacer. Regret not getting novatechs and saving $200 lol.

that noise is just obnoxiously horrible!

If only it was even. I think most people will do fine with powerway etc hubs, it’s not rocket science to make a good hub , but also seen some ugly examples of drive rings breaking on cheaper hubs and resale value might not be great.

Money no object Carbon-Ti seems to make the best / lightest road hubs, quite loud though, Hope RS4 is more subdued. Novatech’s might be the best value?

..riding it is worse, huge difference to my ears though YMMV.

I have broken several ratchets in my time (trials rider) but I’ve learnt to trust the DTs.

Broken DT ratchets or other ratchets? Don’t think the BZZZbzzz would be so bad on a MTB, but on a roadbike with carbon wheels it gets a bit too infernal.

Not all: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTvilMFyhOM

Mine: https://streamable.com/qqrve

@BearBack Thanks for the advice, however I said it was not uncommon based on reading about people having similar problems elsewhere, but maybe I was just very unlucky. I don’t think it’s as uncommon as you think and as I said the springs were aligned correctly and yes I used my hands. But good to know that mushrooming is a potential issue.

@submarined it’s wimdy here, freewheeling at 30 mph in tailwinds :p

No, you’ve misunderstood Bearback’s post- he was describing how the spacer can get damaged due to overtightening.

Ok, yep I misunderstood what he meant by mushroomed.

Yes the spacer wasn’t damaged from over tightening – it has spring size “bite” marks on its side and no signs of mushrooming, it was damaged from the freewheel side spring somehow wedging in between the spacer and the ratchet, and when i tried to turn the crank the tip of the spring dug into the spacer and bent. If I had known this could even happen I would have been more careful trying to turn the crank, but if the design had been good it couldn’t have happened in the first place.

Still have no idea how you managed that with the DTs tbh

Turns out it’s not uncommon and another user here aware of the issue said it could be due to tightening the dropouts too much (which shouldn’t be possible due to the spacer). Can you tell me how you’re supposed to “mishandle” the install given that the springs are correctly aligned? It’s a poor design + springs have uneven load creating annoying oscillations. Never had any such issue with the Hope evo, guess it’s less susceptible to mishandling :p

Until I noticed it I didn’t notice it at all, but once I *did* notice it, it was really quite annoying, so much so that I switched out the hub for a Superstar one.

The combination of roadbike (higher speed) and 60 mm carbon wheels makes the oscillating noise a lot more pronounced, might not have noticed it on a MTB with alu rims. It sounds like the wheel is broken to me.

An unbalanced wheel might also cause such noise.

No they aren’t… More wear, more moving parts, pawl tips wear and springs snap. And not as well sealed, in the hopes. The star ratchets are one of the most proven systems in hubs. Both systems work well but the star ratchets are more reliable.

From what I can tell, and my own experience with the Pro 2 evo, pawls are simpler (no real risk of jamming springs upon install), cheaper (54t ratchets $$$ pawls $) and more robust.
Heard about more people with chipped ratchets, also ratchets esp 54t are more sensitive to the amount/viscosity of grease used. After trying them I don’t get the ratchet or DT hub hype, Hope is better and had actual human customer support, try contacting DT LOL! Seals are good in both.

That said, happy to keep the DTs if the noise can quiet down and even out (carbon rims = amplifiers). You’re only supposed to use a thin layer of DT ratchet grease or else you risk damaging the teeth, which limits how much you should quiet them that way. See what happens with a new springs and a new spacer next week. Also asked for a Hope RS4 rebuild quote.

Don’t discriminate against objectum sexuals. Thanks for the bump!

“The spacer can however get mushroomed if it’s over tightened in the dropouts and this is more likely where your issue started.”

Possibly what happened, but shouldn’t the spacer prevent this? Disagree that there’s not something wrong with the design. The spring shouldn’t be able to get wedged like that when oriented correctly nor did I tighten the dropouts a ton.

“Why would you downgrade your hubs?”

Because it’s an upgrade.

+ No faff with the star ratchets and springs getting stuck, pawls are a more robust design.
+ Much less drag.
+ Much nicer noise IMO (more subtle, good for road)
+ Stainless steel bearings
+ Non oscillating noise
+ Subtler logo
+ Got the hub tools already
= Weighs the same
= Similar engagement
– Cost £40 more (+ rebuild cost obvs).

Considering a rebuild with Hope RS4 straight pulls which seem to be the bee’s knees, but see how it works w new springs first.

The spacer actually got damaged from the spring wedging into it somehow and the spring bent, bit of a rubbish system (springs were installed in the correct orientations so it shouldn’t happen), ordered a new spacer and set of springs – see if they make a difference. Currently missing the pawls of my Hope Pro 2 Evo – never had any problems ;)

K I think it will be hard to find a spring with the right dimensions and such low spring force, I’ll measure the force when I get the new springs. Noticed DT came out with a new system not too long ago that only uses one spring btw.

No springs naturally didn’t work at all, only using the top or bottom spring didn’t make a difference in sound.

The rims make a difference, carbon rims seem to act as amplifiers.

Next thing I’ll try is to to remove one or both springs and see if the sound becomes even (obviously can’t use the bike but should hear the sound).

K Right they are rotating, i guess not in sync so position wouldn’t matter?

You mean Belleville Washers or simply wave springs? I might just be..

Don’t love the spring setup of the DT’s, not so robust – prone to getting the springs jammed just happened to me and a spring bent and made an indentation on the spacer ring..

Balancing didn’t make any difference (used blue tack applied opposite of valve and checked for vibrations holding the seat and spinning the wheel fast, 9 grams did the trick).

Taking a look at the springs..

I’ve heard a couple even sounding ones Fat-boy e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTvilMFyhOM, so maybe it’s avoidable could just be the hubs being very sensitive to wheel balance and spring..positioning? There are two springs, could rotating them counter to each other to balance how they apply force to the ratchets help? Guess it’s not that hard to try..:S

K – yeah that could do something..

Sounds good, se how the GP5000s hold up, durability doesn’t seem great but heard good things about puncture protection apart from sidewalls being weak.

Really doesn’t seem to be a big downside to running thinner version road tubes, maybe that’s why some companies like schwalbe and conti only sell thin versions with long valve stems?

Going with the SV20s + GP5000s (81g for the 80 mm ones), no problems during installation, the black valve stems are nice..

Ordered the pass quest ring from aliexpress, asked for and got a $10 discount btw! Thanks for the info.

Looks like chainline should be similar as with the big shimano ring only?

And Hutchinson, but they seem so so quality. If there isn’t that much to gain in terms of stabbing wound protection I’d just go with Schwalbe’s dark stem valve tube which is the cheapest and most avail around here.

Thx sounds good, I’ll go for one.. so expensive..

Connex links are reusable and removable without tools, very handy if you’re out on the road or if you take your chain off frequently.

Thanks njee! Looking forwards to testing them! (and to get rid of my 2.1 kg shimano wheelset that barely clicks..).

Coronavirus is allegedly under control, wheels shipped, final spec:

60 x 25 mm OD U-profile carbon clinchers, w/o brake track, tubeless ready (no holes in rim bed)
DT350 24H Straight-pull centerlock thru axle 54T ratchet
CX Sprint spokes black (stronger than Rays maybe)
Black brass nipples
Weight TBD

£558 delivered duty paid.

Drac: THANKS!!

Where can you find a list of your posts or comments? The profile doesnt show them.

Good one!!

@tomhoward thanks – sent them an email.

Suggestions so far

“Does my bum look big in this Spandex”
“Stickers aren’t aero” – original!
“Aero McAeroface”

Dropped the casually racist one.

Wrong – you can convert it and it’s basically the same as the 350 otherwise https://youtu.be/e_XpRZCLTX4

I’ll let ya’ll vote

Gotcha, well yes, shrink to fit, think the XL size is for slightly overweight people, length good, but a bit big in the waist and arse (Im 193 88 kg so not skinny).

Or sell the hope hub and get a the DT E 1900 wheelset for about £180 (similar strength to EX511?)

Can be upgraded to a ratchet 54t freehub if you want more than 24 pt engagement.

Que? :^)

To my great surprise, heating the tights in the oven at 150C (polyester melts at > 230C) for 5 minutes worked perfectly.

How often do ya’ll have to reinflate (say get pressure up to at least 80 psi) your approx 25mm wide road tires? Considering going TL as i’m getting a hole-less carbon rim.

Figured it out, turns out it’s finicky: the bearings on the drive side all need to be pushed out towards the outer edge of the bearing race for the axle nut to center correctly / go deep enough into the freehub (it’s not self centering and doesn’t push the bearings into place itself like older shimano hubs i’m used to with larger bearings).

You know you’ve fitted it correctly when the drive side nut lip fully enters the freehub body like so: