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Viewing 40 posts - 521 through 560 (of 1,013 total)
  • Mintel predicts £1 billion new bike sales this year
  • yohandsome
    Free Member

    In that case wouldn’t you be better off being totally in-aero to maximise your training without having to go fast?

    Do pro’s train like that? No. And remember I need to maximize KOM’s :p

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Spexcel

    Good tip, I can justify say £30 on this project to reach my distant and vague yet eagerly anticipated goals of freedom to sprint with crazy passion. TY @thisisnotaspoon.

    They offer a “speed suit”
    fdfd

    Not sure how aero a cheap skinsuit is? A real one is a lot tighter than just a pair of bibs and a jersey sewn together.

    Good question – anyone know? Also I notice they’re sometimes called speed suits on Ali.

    Hear some of the speed socks on there are vgood btw https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33001126566.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&fbclid=IwAR2gnUDvr1QlWkQP51B2MGXMAxOWM9OlB8Epj54ZUjPxGWeuw4mOofSuUdw

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    So you are planning on wearing a skin suit for commuting?

    I don’t commute but i might wear it when visiting friends to harass them.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Get your coat lad. Your barred….

    🤪

    Um. You are thinking about wearing skinsuits, but didn’t take the advice about using TT clipons?

    Uh-um. Not doing time trials, only sprint / short interval HIIT workouts where they’d only be in the way. Otherwise I ride from A to B in traffic, TT bars no bueno. Not that they aren’t appalling and generally sucks the joy out of cycling – got a pair.

    Here’s a fairly nice looking one, bit similar to Ale rev
    e

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    I’ll ask if I can get a partial refund or a discounted new wheel..

    So 3k weave will hide stuff like this? Regratz..

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    You’ll always lose a fortune selling 2nd hand bike parts!

    I don’t think i’ll lose a lot selling DT swiss 60 mm carbon wheels, I could probably sell them for what I paid, but defects like this annoys me and hurts resale value.

    Also think it’s only cosmetic but asking to make sure.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Can be an ealy sign of heat delamination, have these been carried on a rear towwball car rack with the exhaust pipe close to the rim?

    Highly doubt it, they were like this when they got delivered.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Yep disc and more like £580 delivered, so budget but from a reputable Chinese manufacturer. Otherwise they’re ace (apart from the oscillating DT hub noise but that’s on DT).

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    0.5-1% failure rate might be realistic.

    “cat3memes on instagram posted a poll on this topic yesterday, asking how many people have had one of their shimano cranks fail. Today the results were posted… 223 out of 1985 responses. That’s 11%.

    Let’s be very conservative and say that everyone of his 34,000 followers has had 2 of the shimano cranks that are prone to the delimantion issue. That would be a .3% failure rate. I don’t know how many of these cranks are out in the market, but it’s a lot. And that’s the conservative view. The more realistic view is maybe .75 cranks per follower, almost 1%.

    Think Mavic R-Sys wheels, some guy experienced a failure (that was probably due to some kind of crash damage) and the whole concept died. They released another version, I never heard of another failure, but the concept still died. Zipp recalled a entire hub at a very high cost to them after less than handful of them experienced a catastrophic failure.

    These are catastrophic failures and where there is smoke, there is always fire. Why is this OK? I would much prefer a company like Zipp that is transparent and announces a recall vs Shimano that sweeps everything under the rug to present a perfect image of consistency and high quality.” https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=143022&start=135

    And to get the terminology right: It’s only Dura-Ace and Ultegra that are affected since they’re hollow-bonded. 105 cranks and below are hollow-forged so they’re fine.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    i
    https://handsonbike.blogspot.com/2016/10/shimano-ultegra-6800-vs-shimano-105.html

    Think the bonding saves 15 grams or so: penny wise, gram foolish :p

    Someone In the comments

    “Thank you for this! I just destroyed my Ultegra 6800 cranks after 4,041 miles and 27 months. The epoxy came loose on the crank arm and are no longer usable. Having 105 on two other bikes, I have decided to replace the Ultegra cranks with 105 5800. The weight difference is negligible and the cost of replacement chainrings is cheaper.”

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    There didn’t seem to be any signs of corrosion

    Inside or outside?

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Shimano even acknowledges the problem!

    Ok they didn’t, misread. Not surprising, I guess no problem is acknowledged short of a recall (which they did in 97).

    Remember than when people say this on the internet they actually mean “have seen this on several peoples cranks on forums in a country of 300million people”

    You don’t know this. You can assume it’s the case, or you can assume it’s not which is a smarter choice – better safe than sorry.

    Having worked in a large, road oriented bike shop through the entire 6700, 6800 and now 8000 eras of ultegra I have never seen an Ultegra crank failure, or even any incipient signs of this kind of failure.

    Again, this can be explained by regional climate differences andor batch problems.

    So, if you own a Ultegra or DA crank, you can grease the cracks to prevent moisture ingress, store it inside or avoid storing it outside if there are large temp jumps between night and day etc.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Wasn’t even aware of this issue, we’ve sold hundreds of bikes equipped with Ultegra chainsets, and had no returns on any of them. Strange.

    Maybe not so strange. If like PT is hypothesizing it’s only happening in regions where condensation is likely to build up in the crank arms (like Thailand or parts of the US). It could however also be bad batches from Shimano. I haven’t seen any examples of broken Ultegra or DA cranks where there haven’t been visible corrosion.

    What cranks are you changing them for ?

    Not changing them, R5800s don’t break like this.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    This. Do we even know that they keep failing, beyond a fraction of a percent?

    I think so. We don’t see 105 cranks failing and we know they have a different construction where the tube is pinched shut at the pedal eye whereas R6800 and R9000 are bonded, and there are dozens of threads and anecdotes about this. Shimano even acknowledges the problem! https://www.bikeradar.com/features/shimano-crank-failure/

    ” dunno but here in Thailand there seems to be an increasing number of failures, this happened to one of our club members a few weeks back, Shimano swapped it out under warranty. Failed after just 2000km/5 months.”

    “It’s a raging failure. I’m in the US and have seen this on several peoples Ultegra cranks. Shimano needs to do a recall or get badly sued when someone gets hurt.”

    https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143022&start=30

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Could very well be a different design / process, not an expert on this.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    5 notches harder tension wasn’t quite enough still “accidentally” pulled out my feet mashing.

    15 notches was too much making it hard to clip both in and out, even managed to fall off or rather with the bike right in front of my landlord to her great amusement.

    10 notches seems about right, a bit harder to clip in and out but still manageable. Was only able to accidentally unclip once really jerking my leg up (which Isn’t something I normally do).

    Guess SPDs aren’t really meant for road sprinting and SP-SL might be more secure, but heck, even those seems to not be enough for track sprinters who use straps in addition.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Went for the 42 cm primavera down from a 44 cm BMC!

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Because I want to know ballpark how much you need to tighten them and if it could even help at all.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Technique probably so so, the more you mash the worse your technique I reckon. Good to know that tightening em up can help.

    d

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    10% higher peak power is what I read hehee

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Thanks – tried 5 turns and unclipping wasn’t a problem, see how that works, will be a bit scary to test though, guess i can just mash at low speed.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    ..what really quiets the hub down is grease one the sides of the ratchets not in between the ratchet surfaces (where it quickly gets rubbed off). The grease on the sides stay put and act as dampers presumably.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    No haven’t, haven’t used SPDs before (only SPD-SL many years ago) so don’t have a good take on how much tightening is needed, wondering if it’ll help at all and if about how much is right. Have however not had any problems when not mashing.

    Would rather not find out by accidentally clipping out again!

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    But they have a 130 mm!! Good tip tho

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Speaking of stems, the dechatlon one looks the shiz and is only £15 but why no 120 mm??

    l

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Interesting, yeah the price difference isn’t big. The Primavera looks a bit more aero though?..gehe

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    I balanced the wheel with blue tack and it made no difference (vibrations went away but not the noise), I have however ordered golf club balancing weights to balance it..

    Here’s one guy who silenced his DT hub by literally filling it with grease

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Got nOthing on my DT350 54T ratchet with CARBON FIBER AMPLIFICATION TECH!!



    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Got new springs + spacer, here’re the results: https://streamable.com/vl15m (btw, the springs require 3.6-3.9 N to fully collapse).

    Still sounds like bees from hell, but it’s a bit better than before and there’s less drag. What sounds like disc rub is actually not. Might add some more grease but overall I can live with it now.
    In retrospect should have gotten the 18 or 36T ratchet (and if they were avail, Hope RS4 hubs).

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Yeah I tried and have TT bars but not a fan, not good for riding in traffic (less safe) not to speak of their appalling looks.

    Upgrade pick: Prima Primavera Carbon £120 240g (Chainreaction brand)

    d

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    I want some buzzin, enough for people to hear and get out the way, but i want it to be even, and i wasnt aware how much carbon wheels would amplify the noise (plus the higher speed on roadbikes) so now I’m thinking a bit less is more.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Pawls are totally fine indeed. Never had any issue with them breaking or with installation on my Hope hubs.

    LOL accurate description of the 54T ratchet 🤣

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Thanks, unfortunately they don’t ship to Germany which is why I didn’t see it. Anyways see how it does with new springs first.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    The tools are £10 each. There are eBay sellers with UK stock.

    Don’t see any! 18T is ofc cheaper to get, but then you have uneven spring tension causing BRRRbrrr-ing again.

    do I care? Not at all

    Do you use it on a road carbon rim aero bike? ;)


    @Daffy
    no difference, used to have no rub.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Thanks for checking, from what I can tell the seals are the same, but alas no cheap way to get the tools right now, unless I buy them and return them lol. Also need the drive ring..

    New freehub £30
    New drive ring £40?
    Ratchet tool £40
    Pawl ring tool £40

    Pawl freehub has maybe half the engagement of the 54t ratchet, not that it matters that much for road.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Guess I could ask my LBS! Oh wait.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Need those special tools though, which would take 2 months to get here from china or cost £100 if you buy em locally :S

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    DTs def are overhyped if you care at all about sound! I agree value is decent, 350s are £104 for a rear straight pull disc on here.

    370 freehub is not a bad idea, but do the seals match up perfectly?

    Nobody said rotor rub was a negative, that’s just me not truing a fresh rotor that came un-true out of the box perfectly yet.

    Yes this is silly, but we’re all quarantined or something so..

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    In my experience DTs are less draggy than alternatives (particularly 240s right enough).

    I think the 54t is known to be draggier, the others prob on par with other systems, but we’re talking marginal differences here regardless.


    @thisisnotaspoon
    I remember! We’ll see if I regret not taking your advice, that said, my no1 pick Hope RS4 was not avail from Farsports and it won’t be hard to sell the DT350 hub if I upgrade to them.

    The worst part about Novatechs are lack of support, shitty resale value and some accounts of them exploding into bits – I’d always pay £80 extra for Hopes, if something goes wrong they make it right. Only have 1 bike too, so I want perfection ;p

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    @thisisnotaspoon Did you say get Novatechs??

    That wheel slows down pretty quickly.

    DT hubs are relatively high drag plus there’s a bit of rotor rub hoho.

    Novatech are in no way comparable with DT.

    Yeah compared to DT350 they’re lighter, cheaper, sound better, are less draggy, have anti-bite tech on the freehubs, no springs getting wedged anywhere.. From what I can tell people say here the seal are good too. DT a bit overhyped perhaps?

Viewing 40 posts - 521 through 560 (of 1,013 total)