Was so pleased with my Newmen MTB wheels that I bought a second set

They look solid!

Allows higher spoke tension (may or may not matter) This is based on the maximum tension allowed by the rim and not dictated by the spokes.
No spoke rubbing.??? Why will this occur. Wheel stiffness will be related to the components you use. If you use a stiffer heavier rim and heavier spokes you will get less flex from the wheel. If you think spoke tension affects stiffness then you are wrong. Wheel Stiffness

I understand everyone measures the sound a hub makes subjectively but when you start throwing crap engineering out as reasons then you should probably back off.

Right I said may or may not matter, could matter if you have a very strong rim with few spokes? Straight pull hubs generally have stiffer flanges though.
Spoke rubbing can occur with J bend laced hubs.

Objectively straight pull hubs are a better design for two major reasons 1) easier spoke replacement 2) better fatigue life by eliminating the spoke j bend.

Whether a hub sounds good or not is totally subjective so you won’t ever get an answer to your question of what sounds good to you.

Primarily looking for something that doesn’t sound broken and not one particular sound signature. Open to suggestions.

Groan. Another thread where you ignore all the answers. I don’t think it matters what hubs you fit as your never going to be happy. Why not ditch the carbon rims for something quieter or buy a wheeler from a recognised manufacturer.

No advice given, no hub suggested. Seems like there aren’t that many to chose from. Choice of hubs is important so worth giving some consideration.

Why straight pull spokes? J-bend are a lot easier to deal with.

No matter how much you tell yourself that you will get the special tool to hold your bladed spokes in place while tightening them, you will end up with them pointing in different directions.

The aero gains if you’re just an old biffer like me, are negligible in comparison to the resulting irritation.

Once built up straight pull hubs/spokes have some advantages:

– Easier spoke replacements.
– Allows higher spoke tension (may or may not matter)
– Easier to lace.
– Better fatigue life.
– No spoke rubbing.
– Replacements are now easy to find, plus not a factor for me as I always have spares.
– The hubs don’t look like they’re from the 18th century.

Reusing the spokes I have so will just have to embrace the challenge – no holes in the rim bed either.

Old DT Swiss 240 18t hubs, very understandably packed w grease.

Quiet is not a sound, it’s absence of sound. You can mute nearly any hub with enough grease. Plus DTs still oscillate like something is broken even with a lot of grease.

DT350 54t ratchet be warned https://streamable.com/qqrve

Flange wider = lower nds spoke tension

Good point, so I think flange width is basically a moot here.

DT fanclub has already arrived yes

Sorry, only hubs that sound good here – happy to sell the DT350 though :)

Also MT5 levers flex at least the 2 finger ones ick, my favorite levers are the TRP ones designed with a lot of input from Aaron Gwin allegedly.

Most powah on our bikes are MT5’s. Amazingly powerful in a very controlled way. No faff apart from slightly fussy alignment of rotor as they have less clearance.

They have noticeably more power than XT 2-pot and Deore 4-pot, both of which are already a step up from Deore across three other bikes.

MT5s are strong enough but so are most other brakes today and you can adjust strength with pad choice and rotor size. You get used to whatever modulation your brakes have quickly, not a big selling point IMO.

I was happy to sell mine: likely to squeak due to the double pad config, narrow pad spacing prone to rubbing (more more than Shimano), weak plastic levers, super weak plastic bar clamps (cracked one), also had problems with stuck pistons, 1 finger lever is expensive. Their rotors are good though.

The worst brake I ever had were some magura Mt5

Amen.

Got TRP Slate 4 (basically SLX 4 pot without servo wave) and they’ve been a dream in comparison – set and forget, superb lever feel. Uses Shimano pads. I’d go Shimano (or TRP if you can find em for cheap). https://www.pinkbike.com/news/trp-slate-t4-brake-review.html

Got some Assos instead which are excellent.

How big is the assos pad compared to the rapha? (width, thiccness)

AND WHY DON’T ASSOS MAKE BIBS WITH WHITE SUSPENDERS?!

I’d try the Endura Pro SL II in medium with narrow pads, but they are nowhere to be found so giving a Rapha core in medium a shot.

BTW dechatlon does allow returns and refund both shipping costs plus pay for return shipping – pretty sweet.

How wide/thick is the chamois pad in the rapha cores, Monvelos or Gore C5s? I’m allergic to big ones, feels like you’re wearing a diaper – don’t have a ton of crotch space lol.

Maybe an endura bib with a narrow pad is the way to go?

Just got the Dechathlon Triban RC100 and the pad feels way too big for me

But leg length is spot on

Yep, too wide and thick

Compared to a much more reasonable, thinner and narrower Adidas pad (also a size M bib, but legs went over! the knees so I have to return it).

I’ll interpret that as more than 10 which is a fair bit.

f nobody else has had them already, I’ll take em for that price.

Bruneep was first, it’s £30 plus £7 in shipping w tracking from Germany, if he doesn’t get back to me within within a day you can have em :>

Got the 24T ratchet, sounds less infernal at half the volume of the 54T. Still oscillates but It’s thankfully not as noticeable. Bit too meager sounding to get people out of the way perhaps.

Will have to consider if I want to bother rebuilding the wheel just to a nice even ticking noise ;p

54t as-new ratchet is for sale incl new springs and an unused pot of red dt grease – it doesn’t have a DT logo on it. £30 plus prob £5 in shipping.

Does anyone want to see a review?

They are… MOST of the 3 pawl freehub issues I’ve seen have been on road bikes,

Interesting, so the pawls break? How many are we talking here breaking with pure road use? I’d be surprised if DT released such a rubbish design that it often breaks on the road tbh.

Hope pawled freehubs are in general more reliable than the DT Swiss 3 pawl system,

Good to know, definitely liked my hopes and their excellent customer service compared to DT, unfortunately they were not an option from farsports.

I genuinely think, seeing as your original complaint seemed to be about noise, this should fix the issue… If it doesn’t, then send me your 24T rings and I’ll send you some 18T ones instead.

Thanks! (re ignoring, wanted 24T)

I know, right! I dunno why he bothers because he never listens anyway!

Calm down – Farsports’s been recommended here actually, the ripples in one spot is an annoying cosmetic defect, but you only see it if you look for it, might try to get a discount or replacement. Otherwise the wheels are indeed lovely. In retrospect I would have asked for a closer visual inspection before building the wheels.

I took the recommendation to not get a skinsuit and just went for a jersey instead.

I took the rec to get a Garmin 520 plus.

Got the prime primavera carbon bars after people said they were good.

Do I like to discuss gear on forums too much? Yes.

Thread 3: My hubs make a weird noise, I don’t like them.

I like the hubs, but I don’t like the noise the rachets make, I didn’t know how carbon wheels and high speeds make 54t sound terrible nor did I know of the oscillation issue – no-one warned me either ;p. Lesson learned, at least it will benefit someone here who wants 54t.

as they pay for return shipping

On bibs?

I believe so, plus they refund the shipping you paid so doesn’t hurt to try.

The Decathlon design department was clearly transported into the future via time machines from the early 90s too.

Most stuff is probably longer in the leg than what you want to be honest.

Looks fine to me and people are happy with them, we shall see.

Fair point. I’m not too fuzzy as long as it looks good and fits – see how this one works out.

Dechatlon has a seemingly decent one for £25 and are in stock, might as well try it as they pay for return shipping.

Made in Poland according to the label 🙂

You’re right, all their bibs are made in Poland.

how much for your 54t ratchet then?

£30 + shipping.

It’s absolutely true. Star ratchet hubs are more reliable.

They’re not more reliable for road use where both are totally reliable.

For MTB it makes sense that ratchets could be more reliable, but there are more threads about ratchets failing than pawl hubs, and we’re talking 370 hubs not co-branded whatever which might not be equivalent and might be about their 2 pawl hubs. Maybe ratchet owners are more vocal, certainly seems that way – damn ratchet fanclub this!

I do think you need to own your ham fistedness here. Sorry.

Never had an issue with Hope hubs and took them apart a zillion times, if you’re not aware that it can happen with ratchet hubs (which is not obvious) then it has nothing to do with being hamfisted.

As far the binding seal issue. Does it work with no seal?
Are you using the 370 seal or the 350 seal?
The two seals are different. The 370 sits on the driver, the 350 in a machined lip in the hub shell.

Doesn’t work with no seal or either seal, the 350 hub doesn’t have a flange that fits the 3-pawl freehub seal, and if using the 350 seal it doesn’t mesh with the 3-pawl freehub so it makes sense that it only works to go from DT370 to ratchet but not from DT350 to 3-pawl.

Adding a lip to the 350 hub body could work, but I’d want a lathe to do that with any sort of precision, so going to try the 24t ratchet next.

However, like your ‘sample size of one’ experience in the ratchet install, you are probably breaking ground as the only person to retro fit 370 internals.

Lol, yes, heed my warning.

Also good in the sub £100 bracket are Galibier and Lusso.

Galibier doesn’t have a plain one, Lusso looks good but not that short!.

The majority of manufacturers all use the same company for the pads

Yes both bids and pads are AFAIK all made in Asia, but you typically see older brand like Endura have the better designs and tech than newer brands that just started private labeling existing products.

Sportful seems like a good value option but like rapha sold out, didn’t Sagan wear those ;p

Morvelo smells like private labeled Chinese bibs to me (what to expect from a company started by two mates and £500 in 2008) and doesn’t look as good as Endura or Rapha but cost the same? Not sold.

Granted, Rapha has a similar story.

https://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/dt240s-hub-star-ratchet-failure-665252.html
https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/catastrophic-failure-dt-swiss-36-point-hub-602813.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cycling/1165524-dt-swiss-ratchet-chipping.html

And there’s more, granted ratchets might be more reliable for MTB use, but not for ROAD use which is what we’re talking about.

That pretty ironic, considering you’re comparing the truly odd opinion of 1 person and his confirmation bias

Nah, multiple reviews and long term experiences with DT370 hubs – incl users on here one of which think they’re better than Hope (better sealed), but they don’t make them in 24h straight pull.

I believe, owned a bike shop for a considerable length of time.

I’m pretty sure they only broke with MTB use, correct me If I’m wrong. My point is that the strength of pawls won’t be an issue for road use unless you use your road bike for trials.

value performance over some weird obsession with noise

No performance benefit for road use at higher cost, and the noise issue is amplified 10x at higher speeds with deep carbon wheels – I didn’t know better at the time.

You’re right hope pawls aren’t fool proof although personally never had any problems, but DT ones are!..should have gotten Carbon-ti :p

Yes, the parts are relatively cheap to fix the system, but I’ve seen the pawls, the springs and the retaining clip all break with alarming regularity, under some not particularly heavy users.

Thanks for the anecdotes, but seems like 99% of people are happy with the 370s and for road use where you’re not smashing them into the drive ring you shouldn’t have any problems.

DT has at least two different pawl hubs btw, one 2 pawl older one and the newer 3 pawl ones.
For reference never had any issue with Hope Pro Evo 2 pawls, looks less robust than the DT ones but maybe they aren’t.

Found the Endura Pro SL Bib II in medium with medium pad (194 cm, 90 kg, 33″ waist, 143 mm saddle so Endura recs medium) for £109 so far, hard to find the right size.

Or just get Rapha. Core Bibs, white straps £85 https://www.rapha.cc/gb/en/shop/core-bib-shorts/product/COB01XXBWT. Job done, I have them and find they’re great.

Good idea – unfortunately all sold out.

Endura pro sl

Looks good, and you can get the correct pad width from knowing your sitbone spacing presumably?

Still interested once you’ve sorted your (bizarre! 😉 ) issue out and are moving the 54T ones on..

Cool, let me just check if they’re actual DT ratchets (got the wheels from Farsports), will do that when I get the new ones tomorrow or monday :)

DT78 who’s the troll – you didn’t contribute anything to this thread. Do you think I ordered all these parts to troll people on a forum? right.

@bedmaker thanks but ordered em for cheap from a german store, I will however have 54t ones avail.

#EDIT : As i understand it the 54T rings have much beefier springs to ensure good engagement which would also contribute to the noise/oscillation issue you have

The springs are the same part number. You can quiet the 54T too if you drown it in grease, but I do want some noise, helpful to let people hear you’re coming and I like it. Thanks for the offer, going to try a 24t shipped from Germany though – hopefully a happy medium ;)

From what I’ve read the ratchet hubs are much more reliable than the pawl hubs so why??? 🙂

It’s a myth, ratchet hubs are not necessarily more reliable, in fact they are more sensitive to the amount of grease used and chipped teeth on ratchets is not unheard of. Plus installation is less fool proof (springs can get caught on the ratchets).

There’s nothing wrong with pawl hubs in fact I think it’s a better design, for ratchets to be meaningfully more reliable I reckon you’d need to be a 200 kg hill-sprinter + pawls are much cheaper to replace.

The best road hubs today are Carbon-ti which are 4 pawl.

They say although there are several YouTube videos showing folk have done it. They must be running without seals as the design drawings say the seals won’t fit.

People have only done it the other way from pawl to ratchet, this works a lot better, but you might indeed compromise seal performance.

Thx! Done, do I somehow need to update old segments with it?

More aero that way.

Ah it was showing and old segment or smth, set it to private and now it works – very exciting I know. https://www.strava.com/segments/23383924

Tested the powermeter today and botched a sprint up da bridge going out too hard https://www.strava.com/activities/3336631879

But why is my power and hr data only showing on my profile and not on the segment view??

Excellent point tillydog, the olive getting crimped too far out on the end of the hose happened to me once and caused a leak.

This time I did however make sure to really force the hose in as far as it could go whilst tightening the bolts, so feel it should be ok, but not a bad idea to check.

SUPER SECRET LIMITED EDITION FOLKS!!

I refuse to test anything but Weldtite TF2 Performance.

Last one promise*