That’s not the sidewall.

True. So superglue in the crack plus a patch on the inside, ordered a £2.5 Park tool TB-2 Emergency Tire Boot for the inside, will cut it to size.

@simondbarnes avoid rocks at all cost :S

Seriously OP, 30 seconds with a track pump is no great hassle.

What’s next, shifters I’ll need to recharge weekly? Slippery slope ;p

Think the 5000 TL would be fine, but might wait until it’s winter and I really need the puncture protection..

Technically 3.2W as it’s 2 tyres.

Good point, and the test is done at 28 kmh/h and with RR linear with speed at 50 km/h we’re up to 5.71 watts difference.

So the actual rolling resistance is approximately 2 * (bike+rider weight/85kg * Speed/28 * measured rolling resistance), that means the Corsa Speeds are about 13.5 watts faster than the 5000 tubed for me at 50 km/h!

t’s worth noting that the Corsa Speed only uses a single compound. It’s marketed to be far less grippy than the Corsa or Corsa control, which use 4. So it isn’t recommended to race on the Corsa Speed unless you’re sure you’re not going to be taking any turns fast. They’re good for TTs though.

Corsa Speed seems like a lot more trouble than it’s worth, 5000 TL is still 7.7 watts faster at 50 km/h and equivalent pressure than the 5000 tubed.

Conti 5000TLs are nice, yohandsome, but are made for casuls on the sportives really. KOM smashers use vittoria corsa speed tubeless.

Hah, I see, a whole 1.4 watts faster than the 5000 TL at 100 psi according to bicyclerollingresistance.com, wonder how their watt test translates to real life? They use a 42.5 kg load pr tire, but I’m 101 kg incl bike, as rollingresistance scales linearly with weight, so the number for me is 18% higher, i.e. 1.65 watts.. If switching from the 5000 tubed I’d save 3.8 watts – not insignificant.

I don’t log a ton of miles, so durability may not be a big issue, perhaps a nice summer tire, then switch to something more durable in the winter, but reading some horror stories about the vittorias leaking sealant.

Overall the 5000 TL seems like a more practical and durable, bit more expensive, and only 1.6 watts slower choice.

Thanks notaspoon, I think you’re right about feel.

Grip; do you get the back end out on corners sufficiently often to make a statistically significant conclusion

Could use some more grip for sprinting! Have had some problems with losing traction, mostly down to technique, but if there’s a significant difference more grip would be nice.

If not a big difference, the puncture protection seem like the only real advantage?

Is TL more comfortable? The casing has lower TPI so it doesn’t follow automatically.

Seems to be that TL then basically is trading time spent inflating your tires/checking your tire pressure and faffing about with sealant, for time spent changing tubes (and they’re a bit safer it they can prevent flats).

Isn’t 28c a bit wide (for aero reasons) on those wheels?

28c would be a bit wide yes aerodynamically, 25c is nearly flush with my rims. In terms or ride comfort I’m sure 28c would be better.

Seems like I’ll have to give it a go eventually.

I’ve found this Tyre pressure calculator.

Only recommends 2 psi lower with tubeless over tubed, for me at nearly 100 kg total system weight around 85/90 psi front/rear.

Seems like if starting at around 85 PSI the best case scenario is to lose 1 psi pr day.

Also, I’d say that vs. Glass and flint, you’re equally as likely to get a puncture with the TL as the standard tyre. My only tubeless road punctures that wouldn’t seal were due to glass which caused a hole bigger than 5mm.

To be more precise, small sharp glass and flint fragments are what’s always given me punctures here, so very small holes that I reckon TL could do a lot to mitigate.

Normal 5000s with latex tubes are faster than TLs….

Don’t you have to reinflate those even more than TL ones?

In terms of comfort, there’s a big difference between 90 and 100 psi for me I notice, so unless I want to go really fast on smooth road I’ll probably stick to 90.

Also faster on normal roads, on track you go to 160 psi tubulars.

Higher pressure is faster, simple as that.

You wouldn’t want to run 90psi tubeless

Enve recommends 88 PSI for my weight with 25 mm tires on their tubeless rims https://www.enve.com/en/tirepressure/, farsports says tubeless max pressure is 105 psi.

Now I would be ok running them at lower pressure for training and transport, and then once in a while topping them up to 90 PSI for PR attempts – how long do they remain rideable without topping off?

Hmm, I’d want to ride at at least 90 psi (I’m 89 kg).. maybe tubeless is not the way :>

Wondering if a hole-less & TL ready rimbed could perform a bit better, surely there are examples of people who see less than 25 psi lost in a week??

It will be a weekly reinflate. Mine will drop 20-25 psi in a week.

Ick, think it could be down to the rim/sealant?

Yeah, he definitely just stuck to the technical aspects…

He had a slide with a question asking if her vag was H7 or M7 fit, and for viewers to leave a comment. A bit much really. The technical roasting is enough.

So the M7 -> vag powerpoint was in the initial video where he reamed cycling weekly? Missed that bit.

Let’s just get the OP’s axle greased and move on with our lives.

<3

Hambini is a 5 year old aerospace engineer/powerpoint expert that makes the world’s best? bottom brackets and roasts brands/people when warranted, he roasted a female cycling journalist on technical merit and she pulled the sexism card that’s all.

Yes grease the axle and stop worrying.

What I did, but curious as to why and if this under-rotation thing can be a problem with bearings sitting directly on the axle.

Make sure the seal reseats properly when you reinstall the hub, it’s not always obvious with the Pro 2 Evo :)

Hold up, you paid > £700 for brakes?! Are you a dentist? ;)

Then again, nothing compared to fancy car brakes!

Sounds good, ordered the Hope, and you use both 1 mm spacers for the road version? Instructions aren’t clear.

Would just be doing them up hand tight with the shimano tool as per usual.

I have 3 bloody sizes of shimano hollowtech bb tools so I SHOULD be ok.

So Hope then?

Chris king is above budget unfortunately.

Hope: So looks like they use 24377 bearings 24x37x7 mm same as Enduro, but good quality INA ones. Shell/tube is aluminum? Does it need a custom tool?

Looks like they’re low friction!

So which part of introducing more flex to the system do you think made it more crisp

Hah, extra flex has a negligible effect compared to the effect of getting rid of friction from ferrules and liner used inside the frame, plus over time preventing gunk from getting into the outers. Friction was particularly high on my bike from the store so YMMV.

Did it with my mtb before and got a nearly as good level of improvement.

Hope would also be an option, but they use proprietary bearings?

First really rainy day, and a lot of noise from the front with shimano organic pads, see how they fare in the future.

Seems to work fine, wheels look better and stay a bit cleaner.

Top 10 or bust ;)

Just got the gamechanger, fits like a glove. Large is 21.2 cm at the widest so narrower than all the other options, weighs 267 grams in large.

Had to scratch of the front Abus logo though, jeez.

Not sure how a different weave would make it any different.

3k weaves are usually a bit more glossy even if matte AFAIK.

If you want to get “fancy” then try a car detailers ceramic coating with uv protection, when i worked in the bike shop i used to apply it to frames/wheels etc and it does make a genuine difference when hosing the bike down

LikeMeguiar’s G190526EU Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax Keramikwachs? Would be slightly worried it’d stain UD carbon somehow.

This seems promising and cost £5 here..

What I have done so far, but if there’s a good low effort option to keep em cleaner and prettier for longer I’d do that – I do after all unlike Hambini clean my bike about once a month.

Although doubt the UV protection touted by some of these options does anything of significance.

Kask Protone in large didn’t fit me at all, my head is too damn long and it needed another .5 cm in inner length to fit – best for rounder heads.

Thanks, inspected it and seems fine, no more creaks either.

BTW want to trade it for a 40 cm one!

know the RS4 only has 2 pawls in the freehub, but i’d be using a different one with 4 pawls.

Their trials hub has 2 pawls so I wouldn’t worry.

Dismissed it initially for looking weird, but then I saw it’s around 10 watts faster than the Synthe (as fast as a non TT/Visor helmet gets, only 3 watts slower than a bare head at 40 kmh) plus it looks quite good in white and is very narrow profile, more modern than the Specialized Evade 2 which it ties with in aero tests at a much lower price – build quality seems excellent – only thing it lacks is MIPS.

Has sunglass ports both front and back.

Everyone who has one is very happy with it, better ventilated than the ballista too.

You’re a medium?

I’m 88kg, 180cm, so I guess will be ‘stockier’ and am wearing a large in both. Fear was that the bibs were so tight on the mediums that they were pulling the pad too tight into the crotch and causing rubbing.

Large may be a better size for me just haven’t tried it, the Rapha suspenders definitely pulled a bit too tight, but the Endura ones feels fine (tentatively). Maybe I should order a large one and see..

..it’s mostly down to the smaller pad I reckon, DM for pics..

Seems like I’m landing on Abus Gamechanger to my own surprise..

I have the same as yohandsome. They be good. Not so light though, if that matters.

But allegedly aero, which naturally matters more ;p