You’re massively overthinking this. Thin, cheap wool gloves are all you need. Get a pack of three so you don’t have to use them wet, and you have backup when you lose one

I’m here to overthink, so what merino ones? Think the thin ones are too thin for my hands..

Going to test some Kanfor Fit screen 10 GBP Polartec Power Stretch Pro fleece gloves and see how we get on, guess I could get a superlight overmitt If i need more heat/windproofing. Cheap because it’s a polish companym they’re made in poland and I live in krakow now :p

“This is another thing from this company that I am very happy with.
Original Polartec materials and prices compared to other companies are 40% cheaper. Seriously – I’m surprised this company is so little known. The gloves are well sewn, the material is as good as PSP Polartec, so they are suitable for severe frosts as the first layer and for all other seasons as independent gloves. I recommend sincerely”

“The material from which they are made, i.e. power stretch, is very warm, flexible and windproof (of course, within certain limits). I use them as winter gloves in the city and they are perfect for such conditions. In the mountains, of course, you also need warmer ones, but as basic they are perfect. When wet, they still give some warmth and you can easily warm your hands in them. Unbeatable at this price!
”
https://www.skalnik.pl/rekawiczki-fit-screen-black-kanfor-599998

Ravemen is nice, but as far as I can tell they don’t have under-seat mounts only seatpost plus their CL06 cost more, it’s larger, dimmer and doesn’t have a 4 level battery life indicator AFAIK.

Under-seat mount is nice and stealthy, and since it the Q5 has auto on/off sensing light and motion, you can just leave it on your bike – one less thing to faff around with beyond the occasional charging.

Yes, it’s very sleek and the light is barely visible tucked under the seat (when not on :p). Cost me 22 gbp delivered, took under 2 weeks.

Update: The excellent Rockbros Q5 now comes with USB C.

Ordered a pair of zipp cork-something pads for 25 gbp, see how they compare.

I wouldn’t bend the calliper arms, they’re aluminium – you don’t want to weaken them. I was wondering on the gap at the chain stays, as most frames of that era were designed around skinny 19c tyres, would’ve thought it must be very close to rubbing the frame with a modern tyre – curious as thinking of building up something similar as a winter bike but would want to run 25’s ideally.

Tyre clearance is abundant, so I guess it depends on the frame!

I use Swissstop Black Prince, Reynolds Blue and Wiggle’s own brand blue. Can’t tell the difference in braking between them and they all sound like £5 notes being scraped off the braking surfaces…

What about Zipp cork? Seems like the quietest option

Surprised you got the brakes to work at all on a 28mm external rim, I have the same callipers and it’s maxed out on pad adjustment on just under 25mm external without reducing the pad.

What’s the tyre clearance like on the stays? must be toooight as a tiger.

What tyre clearance? I had to straighten the brake arms to run parallel to the rim and shave the pads down to 5.8 mm (most pads have approx 7 mm of brake track protruding from the pad holder). I guess I could gain a bit more room by bending the arms out, but the angle of attack would get worse. Not a big problem for me as I don’t brake that much.

In retrospect I would have gone with narrower rims, 25 or 26 mm, but on the upside the width is perfect for my 26 mm tires.

They are supposedly carbon specific..but not so sure. Said dura ace on the flimsy plastic bag, but dura ace doesn’t make any brown pads? Maybe just some sort of generic asian cheapo.

What’s good and def silent? I read people like Shimano R55C4 and Swissstop Black Prince. Price isn’t so important as I don’t go through pads that fast.

The RHL has an adjustable rail style mount, bit larger body and a slightly smaller battery. Otherwise I think they’re nearly identical. But look for the OFFBONDAGE 1000 (see my link) it’s the same as the D3-1000 if you want that kind of mount (makes it a bit sleeker) for “reverse” mounting.

Link?

https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004731646004.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.9e2e7f15iLXGO2&algo_pvid=91f54a17-aa2b-407f-bec6-3fd53cfb1ce1&algo_exp_id=91f54a17-aa2b-407f-bec6-3fd53cfb1ce1-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000030836511518%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21PLN%21166.74%21108.37%21%21%21%21%21%400b0a050b16693027774477886e3a98%2112000030836511518%21sea&curPageLogUid=YNNMUnZ948RM

@thisisnotaspoon makes sense.

@fossy Good to hear, not much point paying more, but wonder if more expensive lights have proper USB C and charge faster (plus displays with detailed charge indicators).

One negative, it only charges via USB A to USB C, in other words plugging it into a usb c charger with a usb c cable won’t work due to it not being able to tell the charger what voltage it needs.

It only works with 5V (USB A spec). I’ve found this with several “USB-C” lights. An ok workaround is to use a USB A to C adapter and get a longer USB A to C cable that can then charge all your USB C devices (at 5V).

5 modes? How many are epilepsy inducing strobes and how many are useful?

It cycles through 3 modes high med low off just clicking it, to get to the strobe party you need to long-click, hence you never enter it by mistake.

It’s definitely around 1000 lumen, extremely strong.

Now I haven’t done a battery rundown test, but Rockbros is a legit brand and I’ve been very happy with their rear lights in the past esp the Q5, both with regards to output and battery life.

A review for a different rockbros 1000lm light stated:
“Awesome design and functionality! Love the power level indicator function in the power button. Very light weight and the 1000 lumens is very comparable to my expensive 1500 lumen headlight.

The stated 1.8 hours of runtime at full power is not achievable. I have only gotten a max of about an hour to and hour and 15 minutes, which is typically not long enough for my night rides.”

So judging by this one should be able to get up to 70% of the stated runtime, or 1.75 hours.

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/stvzo-usb-c-front-light/ some lights discussed here

Sweet – seems like a very reasonable option, ordered a gopro to garmin-male quarter turn adapter to I can just slot the light+adapter into my k-edge from below when I use it:)

I’ve used their (Rockbros’) round taillights in the past and they’ve been excellent.

Don’t forget OFFBONDAGE, I was able to find and order this one for 22 gbp delivered :))

Think I’ve found my budget Gopro mount light: Rockbros D3-1000.

The lens should have a better beam cutoff than the Ravenmen CR1000, so good enough – check this review:
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ravemen-cr1000-vs-rockbros-yq-400.1156521/

USB-C, side illumination, 2.5 hour runtime at 1000 lumen, 150 grams 11.5x3x3 cm, cost 17 gbp plus shipping from aliexpress.

..and of course it’s sold out everywhere..

Then agai the 1500 lumen MOON RIGEL MAX is only 44 gbp vs 263 gbp for the Detour delivered..not as good as a full on STVZO lens but it has an anti glare lens at least.

Then the RAVENMEN CR1000 is much sleeker and offers better better beam shaping, but damn it’s micro usb :S

Also considering the Outbound Detour for my race bike..but I don’t want the huge action cam adapter to be permanently stuck on (not my bike, but I have the same K-edge)

Think a gopro quarter turn quick release would be strong enough to hold the adapter and light?

My Ravemen PR1600 is USB C.

Unfortunately their 1000 and below series are micro usb for now. They have a nice USB C rear light however.

Got this one, Prox Heze 400 lm USB-C with anti glare, cost me 11 gbp here in Poland (it’s a polish brand, generally decent stuff!) – basically a magicshine.

Now for the USB-C rear light.. see there’s cube light III and some other options

Ravenmen looks very good for both on top of the bar use (easy to remove the whole thing incl adapter) and under the headunit use (can get a gopro adapter for it and turn the lens), but MICRO USB WHYYYY

Moonlight Rigel fits the bill, but it doesn’t get great reviews, also not fan of the graphics and availability here is low.

Maybe I’ll just get a Sigma buster 400 and put some electrican tape on the lens to make it “STVZO” esque. I see they also have a gopro mount adapter for sale so it could be turned into a upside down light.

The magicshine looks very sweet with a couple of downsides

1. Would need to find an easily/quickly removable Garmin mount adapter for the handlebar – not sure it exists? (this is for purely aesthetic reasons mostly ride my old pinarello without a light).
EDIT: they have one that i guess works https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/pl/magic-shine-garmin-do-wspornika-kierownicy-allty-lights/137782378/p
2. Mounting it upside down doesn’t work (if using with a bike computer – relevant for my racing bike)

Both Sigma and Ravenmen are micro usb.. maybe USB-C isn’t a thing yet?

Sigma BUSTER 400 FL has USB-C, but is made for off-road with no “dont blind cars” feature, but perhaps 400 lumen doesn’t do that or I could tape it I guess.

Prox Hamal 600 lumen has USB-C and some sort of lens for 15 gbp.. (polish brand)

I’m going full Dura Ace 7700, better, cheaper and more avail than Campag. Plus I’m fitting it with 46 mm satin carbon lightbicycle DA 7700 hub silver spoke wheels, so it wouldn’t be a “pure” italian build in any case. It’ll be a sweet vintage / modern hybrid, smooth, fast and light-ish for not a ton of money buying all the components used (in poland).

I guess if you can pay a bit you can still get nos 7700 and 7800 hoods, but they’re getting pricy. There are however a lot of offbrand 7800 hods still for sale.

I’m going to keep my eyes out for a nice pair of ST 7800 (they sell within seconds on ebay kleinanzeigen or olx in poland!), only need a new cassette and chain to upgrade to 10 speed :)

Yeah they’re not unusable, just a lot less nice to hold, hoods are more flimsy also and there aren’t replacements made. I can suffer a little for fashion however it’s not a racebike ;)

7700 feels like a toy in comparison, but may get used to them.. Look good though and weigh 100g less than the tiagras they replaced :p

So I made the switch, and for now I regret it, the DA 7700 is a lot smaller in the hand, maybe good for small hands? 0.5 cm shorter reach. Harder to get on the brakes in “aero” mode.

But they will do until I find a good deal on the 7800s :))

Never snapped a Shimano chain, snapped a KMC chain so YMMV.

I’d get a Shimano XT/XTR CN-HG95 10-speed Chain with a Whipperman Connex quick link as they are reusable, can be taken off easily by hand and are bombproof. Read the reviews of the chain online if you fear snapping.

Thanks! looking for slightly newer DA hubs, got a bargain for a new 28h rear RH 7700 so looking for a front FH 7700 :)

was working on sub 1×1 mm large samples w 30 micron wide protrusion that had with nanometer thick electron transparent carbon coats on top with DNA base specifically tagged w palladium clusters on top of that again.

Usually used a dissecting microscope to handle the samples, I think most people can do fine motor work as long as they take their time.

I don’t quite follow the “by hand” bit.

Yeah but with a jig like the one above seems like an OK idea.

Can get one of these w the vice for 28 quid..should be good enough, very high precision not req. A mill would be best, but don’t have access to those anymore (I did in my TEM days, plus access to a nice CNC).

I’m a ham fisted idiot and I can use a SEM.

It’s not using the microscope, it was the sample handling.

Dura Ace FH 7700 came in down to 12H drilling..

Step one would be asking yourself if youre a ham fisted bafoon. If so, then don’t.
If you’re somewhat mechanically able and pay attention to the small details then sure.
I assume you’ll need a small chamfer on the holes so I’d see if stepped drill bits are available in the size you need..2.4-2.6mm?

Hehe, depends on the day..but I have worked on handling extremely delicate and tiny structures to be scanned with electron microscopes so I can be OK.

I would need a 2.25 or 2.3 mm drill bit for the holes and 3 mm for the chamfer (measured my rear DA 7700 hub). Not sure I could find a suitable stepped bit..

I’ve no idea how expensive old school Dura ace hubs are.

I’d wait for the 24h personally.

I’ve spent a lot of time drilling stuff for diy. Its never ever neat enough I’d drill a hard, curved metal hub successfully. I’ve not used a pillar drill for a looking time. That would make it more likely to succeed.

Can you get some time with a pillar drill?

$100 NOS. I could get a cheap pillar drill esque holder and vice for a few pounds, not sure where I’d access one here in krakow.

My fear is that 7700 shifters will be less durable, but guess I can wait and see if a good deal comes up (always a bit iffy to buy used however)

The tiagra 4500 shifters are tge same shape as the 7800s, just with added ugly useless gearindicators. Function and feel vnice how everything

Good advice, can you see if they are fine visually? From a photo? Not sure the seller have used it themselves..