+1 for Moors Valley. Ideal for all that.

I usually just put the battens under the shelf and recessed from the front edge. Yeah, it’s not invisible or floating, but it’s done in a fraction of the time and once you ram it full of books and other crap, you can’t see the battens anyway.

Had similar here. When we moved in there was a big apple tree very close to the house and it was already propped to stop it falling into the house. I tried to save it via reduction, but eventually it had to go. So replaced it with 4 trees in a better position that isn’t going to bother any buildings. 1 cooking apple tree, 2 eating apple trees and 1 fruiting cherry. The apples have taken well, but the cherry hasn’t so will replace it with another apple or pear I think, or risk another cherry, but add a lot more grit to the soil to improve drainage. Have a chat with your local tree nursery to see what they recommend for your soil etc.

Re the rootstock that the fruit trees are grafted onto, they will determine the eventual size so you can pick a rootstock to suit the size of tree you want. https://www.rhs.org.uk/fruit/fruit-trees/rootstocks

I am a bit tyre curious, but not to the extent that I will spend a fortune on trying then all. But I will pick up secondhand tyres for the purpose of trying something new. There’s always folk clearing out tyre stashes.

The 10mm has a RH thread, same as the 8mm. Even though its now worn out, I would still expect it to come out ok once the 8mm is undone and the crank off, as it should still at the 10Nm it went in at.  You might have to force something into the 10mm like a larger torx bit to turn it or it might come off easily.

I think you have brute forced the wrong bit. The outer 10mm is for the outer part of the self-extracting bolt. The 8mm inner part is the bit that removes the crank and needs the brute force to get the crank to self-extract. Try an 8mm.

Fwiw the 10mm does up to 10Nm and the and the 8mm to 54Nm. The 10mm is pretty soft alu so will crumble if you heave on it. But if all is intact enough, it might all come out when you undo the 8mm and then you will need to only replace the self-extracting crank bolt kit – probably £10-£15 or so.

I think they just shut the entry to the closed bit and then everyone pops out the other end a bit later. Certainly I have nipped through just before the closure time and all the cones and plant was there ready to go. Suddenly no-one behind me. No one ahead either for a bit so I wondered whether I had ignored the shut signs by accident. Eventually caught some cars so assumed not.

I often wonder if we’ll be the last generation like this. My dad was a wood hoarder,

Yes, that’s how I grew up. There was a lot of wood hoarded. The conservatory was where the lathe lived and things got built. The workshop was too full to be used as a workshop. For as long as I can remember it had a church organ in there waiting to be fixed, one of the reasons it was always too full.  But then they retired and sorted it all out… by building another workshop! We can sit on a sofa in the conservatory now. No lathes in sight!

But I think I have taken on my Dad’s mindset of build everything and fix everything yourself. So I need space for tools and endless supplies of materials, just in case. But I don’t have a workshop, so it all invades the house a bit. Still better than a buy cheap/ throw-away/ landfill mindset I think.

I have noticed with my kids, that they are very quick to get rid of stuff once they don’t need it. Bin it, give it away, sell it, trade it in etc. Made easier with selling apps I think too. They don’t have the ‘keep it, it might be useful’ mindset that I have.

Well if it’s in a rollercab, it’s tidy already when you shut the drawer. So start with handles the same way, small nested under bigger. It will end up a mess, but as long as you can shut the drawer it’s fine. Re-tidy every now and then.

Get the biggest rollercab set up you can. Lots of drawers, varying depths. Chest above if needed, but that might depend on whether you want the flat space on top of the rollercab available.

You need to sort all the wood into 3 piles. 1 – definitely useful, just one step away from being a new creation. 2 – all-round potential, good wood that could be used for many projects or fixes. 3- emergency fix wood, eg propping a fence in an emergency and any other wood not good enough for piles 1 or 2. Then put it all back in the shed, safe in the knowledge that it’s sorted.

I put mine on the opposite side of the boot to the direction of most of the bends on the way home. Then really pin it hard round those bends so the shopping is definitely where I left it.

Well bike between you and dog only works with one dog. I tried this with 5 collies. Thought I had the bad situation under control then one ran around the back of me and bit my calf.

Stones is a good one that I had forgotten about.  As a kid used to run a rural loop with my mum. At a particular point on the loop you pick up stones. A few minutes later an angry dog appears and gives chase. You lob stones at it and it scarpers. Same routine every week, so it seemed normal.

Same as MCTD, one lense for distance (your dominant eye), the other for close up. It’s called monovision. Some folk can hack it, some can’t. Ask your optician if it’s suitable for you.

I have the Park one. It’s fine and does the job. Yeah, very far from top end tooling like Abbey etc, but does the job.

Yeah this ^. You only need consistency not absolute accuracy. Just remember to take the D2 everywhere you go then you can use any pump. My pump (lezyne) is probably 10psi out, maybe more.

Sherbert. Probably lemon.

(looks like alloy corrosion)

Topeak D2 is fine. I have 2 and both read consistently enough for me. Just don’t let them gunk up with sealant. One has lost the ability to switch to schrader though so that one is bike only now.

A fun weekend with beers and hotdogs – perfect! See you then. I might do a team 24. Not sure yet. Certainly will be untrained.

We’ve chatted about this before I think. Anyway I gave up any racing years ago as the ups and downs of chronic fatigue would just result in wasted race entry fees time and time again. I have periods when I do ride regularly (not now), and it’s local trail rides. Hitting features, sessioning stuff, no real mileage, but fun. Sometimes some xc loops, but I know that endurance anything tends to get me in trouble if I am not careful, so not too much of that. And that’s fine with me. Also bouldering and that’s a fun technique based and social activity.

Furry lined crocs. Ideal for popping out to the bin and tremendous for indoor slipper duties.

Tesa/ stans is fine. Just got to get everything warm then it sticks well.

I don’t know about mtb bike fit. Mrs Yak had a bike fit done to deal with some pain (it worked), and I use that as a basis for setting up any type of bike for her. On a typically steeper seat tubed mtb, that means sliding the seat back or using a layback post. The only mega specific road thing I don’t do is shimming one of the mtb shoes like the road shoes.

715 doesn’t seem wildly out tbh. I’m shorter and run 720. Mrs Yak is the same as me and runs 709. We all vary massively though. What’s your flexibility like? Glutes, hamstrings etc? Core strength good? If after everything you can’t get it right, consider a bike fit. You might have an imbalance that may need correcting.

Like many above, I used to react and verbally give it back or gesture with an instant coffee shake, but in the end, that would leave me more wound up for the day, than if I just shrugged, decided the bellend was a bellend and let it go. That and like the OP found out, bellends do stop, get out and are very willing for a fight. I had a bellend stop his car in the middle of the road, get out and give chase on foot, all because I filtered past him in slow traffic. He yelled some abuse from his car, I reacted with a coffee shake and he went nuclear and started sprinting down the road after me. Seemed quite determined to have a fight, so I think it’s to best stay well clear of this sort of road rager.

A bit dull, but the washing machine. One of the hanger springs had snapped so the drum was hanging down on one side and the door seal twisted. Drum and concrete weights banging everywhere. New spring ordered and used the drum central lifting eye + a strong youth to lift it up and new spring connected. All done for £20.

The problem with attendance is that it eventually leads to the local authority getting jumpy, threatening letters and ultimately a court summons for the parents under the Education Act. Worrying for parents (fines/jail threats etc) but also another massive cause of stress for the child.  But 87% isn’t that bad yet, so whatever you can do now with the teachers being reminded, and on side will help massively.

I would meet with the HoY and the student welfare officer and ask again for a note to be sent to all her subject teachers so it doesn’t happen.

Also your daughter may need some help to get over this. See the GP and see if a referral to CAMHS or other service is available. There may be long waits though so you might need a quicker private provider to help. See what your GP recommends. Some schools also have in house counseling so if offered that can be immediate.

Hope it all improves for you.

And as below. Don’t go nuclear. Keep everyone on side. Your daughter will want to feel supported at school, not involved in some adversarial situation because of her parents.

I imagine there might be a few age-groupers on here who are in too? Mrs Yak had qualified, and we’d planned to go, but a dose of covid has meant it’s been sacked off. Good luck to everyone going, competing, supporting or spectating.

The cheapest ones wear too fast for use with sintered pads, so don’t get those. Other than that it’s thickness. Match whatever your calipers need. The rest of the features – saw teeth, hole pattern, floating rotor, weight etc are less important.

Standard shimano, sram, magura- all fine.

When I first got all bean/grinder/espresso nerdy, I was after dark roasts, like many of those mentioned in this thread. Now prefer a medium roast as I think it gives better and more flavours as an espresso and is a better base for milky coffees. I don’t single dose so just run a hopper full of a medium roast bean and it’s fine for everything. Trying to avoid the rabbit hole. It’s coffee, not another hobby for me.

Hmmm. I buy 2x 1kg bags at a time, and bung 500g in the hopper per refill. Seems fine and not aware of a huge loss of flavour.

Maybe try a Toyota Rav4 ?

My local garage has a diesel Tiguan as a loan car and it’s alright. Nothing exciting but no rattles, drives fine, good interior condition, comfy enough and doesn’t feel big. And it’s well over 200k miles.

But the caveat to all that is that it’s the garage loaner so probably gets all the attention it needs to sail past 200k.

The board is weatherproofed on the back and there’s a drip on the top edge so water doesn’t run/track onto the climbing face, so it’s always dry. But the landing /mat area will get wet. So dry days only really. Faces W so evening sun.

No space indoors, so only option was the garden. An indoor board would be amazing though. Son is asking for a campus board too, so might have to rebuild the pull up bar bit to the R to have a campus board.

You look you have some good height there for your indoor set up . Looks good.

35deg garden board from when we just built it in June. Now has plenty of wood holds on, some new, some used from a friend and some I made. Also lots more small screw-ons for feet to keep feet off the woods. Some resin slopers added too.

Board is 2.5 full size ply boards + small kickboard on a treated softwood frame. 3 full boards was just too tall for the location, but 2.5 still gives enough board space.

Quite like this:

Dark Side of the EDGE | Great Taste Award Winner

Mostly on the Sussex Barn though, but that’s not your brief.

I still have a pair of bonty mud x for this sort of thing. When we needed another pair, I went for phantom muds. They are mostly not used (maybe 1 or 2 rides), but ready to go for the next mudder. If not too bad, then (old pattern) forecasters are ok.

Otex does work eventually, but I need to plug away with it for a couple of weeks usually. No idea if my ears would have self-fixed in a couple of weeks anyway though. Don’t store the little otex dropper on the same shelf as your eye drops though. Stupid mistakes etc…and Otex really stings if  you squirt it in your eye.

Nothing special. Just don’t repeatedly stop the engine if mid regen. My 2007 euro 4 relic regens for 15mins every 200miles so it’s easy to predict when it is going to happen.