Why not just go back to him with what you think is a reasonable price, he can only say no.

50p?

These would also be perfect:
Soma 400 ac an 60mm tyre clearance:

Straight Blade CrMo Cyclo-Cross Fork, Disc

Shame theres nowhere to get them in the UK.

EDIT, there is £134 https://cycleworx.co.uk/collections/soma/products/soma-straight-blade-cx-fork

these may also be a chunk heftier than the vaya. but they “look” right.

Ho hum the cdf fork is about 300g heavier than the vaya.

Will see if I can find a vaya fork, otherwise I may go for something like the CDF.

A cotic escapade or shand fork might work if they will sell them.

Ah.

Vaya fork looks good.

Now to track one down… seems they are not in stock anywhere!

Thanks, that M part fork is too long plus it will be thee wrong offset being fro 26″

Corroded – what is the biggest tyre you can fit in the shand fork?

Yes the Awol fork or Project 2 is what I’m after, however neither seems to be available aftermarket – only on their bikes.

Dawes fork look kind of OK but I was concerned about weight and steerer length

The Surly forks are lugged and a bit spindly for my bike but thanks.

I have just put on the Acor verison of the Juin tech, only been round the block.

The horror stories are making me nervous…..I got them from here:

http://sheffield-cycles.co.uk/components/brakes-and-levers/disc-brake/acor-hydraulic-cable-disc-brake-set/

Its in nobodies interest to prove your old bike is better than a new one.

Just ride what you’ve got, you will have the same amount of fun.

Go to your local farmers supplier and get a barrel of dairy hypochlorite, will last you years.

http://www.pavingexpert.com/maintain_02.htm

Brand new Dacia Sandero is £5995 list price and will be good for 10 years.

3 of those years will be under warranty.

You can extend the warranty to 7 years and 100k miles for £850

If you take finance then they give you 5 years warranty. Do this then immediately pay the finance off inside 14 days.

Bangernomics without the hassle?

There is a also 26 x 1 1/4 (nothing like 26″ mtb)

Just measure the diameter or circumference of the rim and lookup here:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html

Confused… so the med x9 rear mech works fine with the 42t cassette?!

I assume its outside the design spec for the mech, hence why they have the “1” series mechs.

I’m just building up a charge plug 5 titanium frame.

Plenty of clearance for the 700x43c soma cazadero tyres I fitted.

Ah Ok,

So there is sram force rival and apex “1” are the 1x rear mechs that can deal with 10-42 and single rings.

So to keep a lid on costs I could get:
chainring 42T
Sram Apex 1 mech (too new for a used one)
Sram Brifter 11spd brifters (used)
shimano xt 11×42 11spd cassette (new) or sram 11-42 pg-1130 or Sunrace CSMS8

Thanks chaps, this sounds better than bodging a shimano mech.

Would fitting a chainring to the inner position on a double be OK or do I need a new crank?

OP you are a little confused.

Wheel alignment or geometry comprises three things:

Toe (I think you referred to this as alignment)
Caster
Camber

So saying the alignment is out means some or all the above are out.

Alignment can change due to wear on suspension components and hitting potholes etc. Even things moving a tiny fraction can cause tyre wear like your picture – most people only get it setup when they notice wear on tyres but its worth doing every time you get new tyres all round.

It is a “wear and tear” thing, so rightly they refuse warranty. It could have been out when you bought the car, but how is anyone to know you haven’t hit a pothole or bounced up and down kerbs?

When you get new tyres fitted, have them set the alignment. It shouldn’t cost much more than £70, many kwik fit stores have the very good idiot-proof hunter laser system to do this, and you’ll get a print out of before and after to show the setting in spec.

Wherever you take it make sure they check and set caster, camber and toe on the front and rear axles, not just the toe.

Nowt wrong with that area but 180k would see you into a nicer area in Lancaster, or a bigger 3 bed semi with a decent garden and possibly garage in a similar area. Obviously not completely done up.

Try to stay south or east of town if you plan on committing by car to uni or south, although when the link road eventually opens they say traffic will ease but who knows.

If you cycle commute then take full advantage of the relative lower prices up beyond the train station (also useful for train to Manchester & Airport 1hr / London 2.5hrs / Scotland 2.5hrs).

Santa Monica; Breakfast at Shutters, dinner at the Galley.

Hire a beach cruiser and to the length of the “prom”.

Ah thanks, sorry I should say I need 1 1/8″ straight steerer and QR axle.

Cheers.

Keela Saxon

Thanks – i’ve emailed you if you could measure up the steerer. cheers.

I could do of course.

Just wondered if there are any other options.

MSP – where can you buy the cascadia?

5) What wzzzz did is possible but not very honest tbh. The dealer usually gets a recharge of the contributions used from the manufacturer for the finance if its settled in the first couple of months (I usually state 6mths to settle). I bet his dealer loves him as essentially they will have covered the £500 themselves. Not that big a deal in wzzz case but some of the deposit contributions on our vans are £4000+ from manufacturer.

Hang on, I take offence at any implication of dishonesty.

The right to withdraw without penalty within 14 days is there in black and white on the finance agreement.

The salesman was well aware I was going to do this as I specifically asked about the wording of this section when negotiating.

I don’t care what the dealer thinks of me! He pushed the deal through before the end of the month to get his sales target bonus. We both win.

Don’t forget folks, you can always overpay your finance to reduce the cost to you (obvs makes no difference on 0%).

depends if your stays are “straight” or curved or crimped.

if straight you should be good to go.

If its a steel frame you could have a go at further crimping your stays.

Best to borrow a wheel and try.

A tip to add:

I just bought a 3 year old Golf with 20k miles on it for less than 50% of its new RRP from a VW dealer.

Negotiated a cash price and then the dealer offered 500 off and 2 free services on PCP at 10.9%

I took that then the day after delivery withdrew from the finance agreement (you have 14 days) and settled with VW Finance, so payed 500 less that i would have with cash and got 2 free services to look forward to!

I think you would be mad to buy a new car, although you can do the same re: finance incentives on a new car too – or even do that and re finance with 0% credit card of its a better rate.

A 0% dealer finance with be pre loaded on the purchase price. No such thing as a free meal. Go shopping a couple of weeks before end of a quarter (sales targets).

These are a kickstarter rip off.

There is an appropriate greeting:

XTR M900, jewellery

Ooo they look interesting. Don’t suppose you’ve ridden nanos to compare on / off road?

I’m generally happy with the nanos but they do seem to wear fast on the tarmac bits

This guy has tested both in many conditions:

http://ridinggravel.com/gravel-news/soma-fabs-cazadero-42mm-tires-at-the-finish/
http://ridinggravel.com/gravel-news/wtb-nano-40-tcs-tires-at-the-finish/

They are more road biased than the Nano. Probably a great choice if you are looking to be faster on the road with better wear than Nano, and are willing to compromise some off road ability for it. Quite a few people set them up tubeless.

I would warn away from heavy stiff tyres like land cruisers if you want to enjoy riding your bike. Go for high volume, supple casings and lightweight.

The high TPI version of the Clement MSO might be a shout too, but thats 40c.

Boom, I ride these:

700 x 42c Soma Cazadero

Folding, black or skin wall, 510g. Finest quality, made by Panaracer in japan.

I bought them in the states, but veto vitality here can get them:
https://www.velovitality.co.uk/products/soma-cazadero-tyre-700c-x-42mm

OK I foun out that Sram GXP direct mount spiders and chainrings are interchangeable and what I’m after is this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-SRAM-X-Sync-Direct-Mount-40T-Chainring-6mm-Offset-For-GXP-BB30-PF30-/131567914133?hash=item1ea20f0c95:g:TjYAAOSwyQtVuuOA

Anyone know a cheaper 40T direct mount sram chainring? Seems a little pricey.

I’d rather build some of these unofficial efforts:

Instructions and brick orders here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/RoscoPC/lotus-43

More: http://www.motorpunk.co.uk/articles/lego-grand-prix-racers-man-cave-objet-dart/

Ah something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SRAM-Force-CX1-40T-X-Sync-Chainring-W-Spider-Cyclocross-110-BCD-11-Speed-/321903903565?hash=item4af2f7c34d:g:rIYAAOSwMmBVyxeE

or this £30:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SRAM-Force-1-22-CX1-Crank-Arm-Spider-11-Spd-BCD-110mm-S900-S950-S950-Usable-/321954836853?hash=item4af600f175:g:33kAAOSwMmBV7Drr

With this: http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/cyclocross-io-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm

Do I even need one? or is one of my spider locations correct anyway?

This guy has them, £1.50

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=128204

Probably not big enough but a Sandero Stepway looks like it would make a great country hatchback without the fuel economy hit of a duster or 4wd.

Fantastic value.

These guys are the experts:

http://unimogs.co.uk/unimogsforsale.asp

or how about:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/700C-Road-Bicycle-Front-Fork-Carbon-fibre-100mm-Front-Spacing-1-1-8-Diameter-Baby-black/1935010783.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.116.6jdUDp&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_10,searchweb201602_2_10034_507_10032_10020_10017_10005_10006_10021_10022_10009_10008_10018_10019,searchweb201603_2&btsid=236d5ff9-6471-4152-b331-2f9a146a2c21

Yes, £27 delivered.

I would go as big as your frame will take. Big tyres don’t slow you down if they are decent, supple tyres not the cheapest you can find (unless you don’t have decent mud clearance!).

Lots of CX type frames will take a 40 or 42c, rare they will fit a 2″ 29er tyre, but you could swap wheels and fit 650b 27.5 2″ tyres.

WTB Nanos are a great choice.

For more road bias I ran Clement Xplor MSO 40c:

Try and get the more supple 120 TPI one rather than 60 TPI. I run mine with about 37 PSI – big tyres don’t need such high pressures.

If your frame has clearance for 42c (check measurements here http://www.bgcycles.com[/url%5D), then get the definitive gravel bike / off roading tyre Bruce Gordon Rock N Road (designed by Joe Murray):

If you are planning lots of road bashing too, then I’d go with Soma Cazadero, £50 from https://www.velovitality.co.uk/products/soma-cazadero-tyre-700c-x-42mm :

Hope this helps.

Not all budget tyres are created equal.

I run Kumho KU39 on my 911 996, no complaints on road or on track.

Some people will insist you run Porsche approved (N rated) tyres, however so long as the tyre you fit is correctly speed and load rated, no worries. In fact some N rated so called premium tyres are simply awful these days.

See here: http://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math

A 26 x 2″ tyre has a diameter of 660mm

A 650b x 1.5″ (38) tyre has a diameter of 660mm too

700c x 20mm is 662 mm

So yeah you could do it, and gearing would be the same.

But why do you want to? Personally I would spend the money on some nice supple tyres and enjoy the comfort like these: https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/tires/26-inch/compass-26-x-2-3-rat-trap-pass/

Big tyres don’t slow you down:
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

The diameter of the wheel makes much less difference on the road. Off road big wheels are better for rolling over imperfections, but on a road with only minor imperfections wheel size makes no difference.