I used this, great price and matt black option.

http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/chimney-products/twin-wall-chimney-flue-systems.html

Concrete roadway might be much cheaper?

Ah thanks, it looks like the one in your image screws direct into the shock, the one I need is at 90 degrees like this:

I ordered a monarch 165×38 damper and a 165×38 dual air can and a monarch sticker.

The damper came without the air fill valve…..this was clearly pictured.

The “air” bit on the top of the shock in kimbers’ picture.

So I have a complete monarch shock ready to go but no air fill valve…. and those are now unobtainable.

If anyone has one please let me know or the lot will be going back to PX

Three options to go with your 10spd road shifter and 10 spd mtb cassette in order of extra expense:

[list]
[*]Drill a hole in the arm of your 10spd mtb mech to route the cable and change the pull. http://www.huckingkitty.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=868[/*]
[*]9spd mtb mech (no chance of a clutch)[/*]
[*]Tanpan http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/derailleur-optimization/products/tanpan[/*]
[/list]

I’d do the first.

Is this not one of the risks you accept when you become a Landlord? Just write it off in your business plan.

Won’t get much sympathy here when lots can’t afford to buy one house, never mind two and then charge increasingly unaffordable rents.

Buy to let has been a massive contributor to pushing house prices and therefore rents to ridiculous levels.

I’m planning to use Bruce Gordon rock ‘n’ roads on the dirty revier, setup tubeless.

Also got some Soma cazadero as a backup.

both 700x43c and made by panaracer

The bruce gordon website has dimensions to show if it will fit your frame.

How about a pair of these super wide drop bars and just swap the stem.

https://www.crustbikes.com/products/wide-load-bar?variant=28423107981

Get a flat bar frame thats “too small” for you.

run a 1990 style 140mm stem and ride the flats with crosstop brakes
run a direct mount stem and ride the drops

no cable swap necessary

No one can call you wreckless anymore. Reckless maybe, but now you have a new wreck.

these:

http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_cable.htm

Just stick an inline adjuster on the bar side and you should just need to give the indexing a tweak when swapping.

Touring brings to mind red socks and cycling capes, miserably pedalling slowly all day in the rain and then pitching your heavy canvas tent.

Adventure cycling is dynamic and exciting – can mean an hours blast or a multi day epic on and off road wherever your spirit takes you.

Basically what mountain biking was before it became all about trail centres and bikes became useless for anything other than trail centres.

Most proper industrial estates have a metal finishers that do blast and powder, I’ve had frames done for £25.

Just glue a bit of wood up there for an easy life.

You need a long cage, medium cage works on the stand just, but you don’t get hardly any chain wrap with the b tension all the way in..

Which I think necessitates it being a designated “1” model mech, as the 22 mech is only in short and medium.

10spd mtb mechs may work as they have the same cable actuation, when I tried with an X7 it indexed but the mech didn’t have the range to get to the top cog.

11spd mtb mechs have different cable pull so don’t work (I tried a gx).

I ended up with an apex 1 mech, about £50. I run rival 22 shifters on 1×11 10-42.

Saddle strap for the tube and CO2, saddle bags are so 1989

http://backcountryresearch.com/race-strap-mtb-saddle-mount.html

I’d be looking seriously at a Sonder camino.

Or one of the Konas if you like skinny tubes.

Or a specialized sequoia or Awol.

I have the latest Charge plug 5 ti frames, that fits nice big tyres.

Is it a full sus bike? If so just unbolt the rear triangle and fork and put the lot into a standardish size cardboard box.

Should be easier to find than a bike box.

In contrast my Thule 530s are rusting away and ready to replace after nowhere near 3 years.

Mine is like that on an 11-46. sublime without the clutch and then with clutch requires a lot more effort and its clunkier.

I thought about loosening the clutch, but with a NW chainring it doesn’t seem to drop the chain.

Interesting debate on type approval for a tow bar.

They aren’t type approved for towing, hence any tow bar fitter would be reluctant.

I never heard you need type approval for a bike rack.

Surely you can just bolt one up yourself and will be legal if you only use it for a bike rack, never for towing?

I fitted a bar shower specifically because they are the easiest to replace / work on when they break. No faffing with tiling.

The bathstore bar inevitably only lasted just beyond the warranty period, so it got replaced with a Mira similar to the above.

I used a mount like this to rigidly mount it:

I ended up going Sram as all the Shimano options were a bodge. Shimano completely missed a trick with all their incompatibilities and not making a road pull mech that will do big cogs. Having said that Sram is different pull road 11 vs MTB 11 too, but at least they make road pull mechs that can do big cogs.

I have older Sram rival 2×11 hydros, both post mount.

I run them on a 1×11 10-42 with an apex one mech.

Works great apart from the acute angle of the cable entry to the shifter. Make sure you use a 1.1 mm cable and I used a flex vbrake noodle as my outer wasn’t flexible enough.

I did the one at Coniston years ago when my dad bought a new 2009 Freelander and they threw the experience in as a sweetener.

We did the bit next to the A65 – but that is a tiny fraction of the course, most of it it behind the hotel. No way your Clio would get around that!

TBH I wouldn’t pay money for that, it was more setup to show off what the vehicle was capable of, it was a sales pitch really, although an interesting couple of hours. If you show enough interest at a dealer you might score it for free.

Kankuu are not particularly well thought of by local residents. This didn’t help http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/96469-storm-desmond-profiteering/

I heard they don’t contribute to the upkeep of the green lanes on which they profit, unlike hobbyist clubs.

The garage also dodged a bullet there.

It was completely out of their control and nothing to do with the work they did.

Most would have them strung up if the outcome was worse and they refused repair.

Don’t pay any more than the field is worth as a field.

You never know, you might one day get permission to build on it.

If you don’t have use for a field, well its not the worst investment in the world, rent it out, make hay, get a horse. You shouldn’t lose money on it if you don’t pay more than whatever its worth as a field.

No one ever sold a field near a road without first checking if they are likely to get planning on it.

Who knows. If it were a straightforward one the seller would have got permission on it first.

Buy it and sit on it, but don’t pay too much for it without permission.

The pasture opposite our house had been denied permission twice in 20 years.

Last year they got permission on it, and its now up for sale.

We’ve gotta build more and more houses, planners prefer to put them inside village limits. Who knows how policy will change in the next 10 years.

Don’t bother with narrow tyres. Get lighter and more supple tyres. Run them tubeless. Don’t put too much psi in them. Enjoy comfort and speed.

Something like this:
https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/tires/26-inch/compass-26-x-2-3-rat-trap-pass/

Depends on the rear axle spacing of the road bike.

If its a disc frame with 135 then chain line will be OK, just like mtb so BB spacer either side (2 on drive side for shimano)

If a 130 then you’ll need to put the 2x bb spacers on the non drive side (and one drive side for shimano) to get good chainline. This will offset the cranks in the frame a little.

If you are running a single ring on a double mtb crank you can just space the chainring in 2.5mm instead.

Get the alloy mainframe blasted by a local refinishers (any one that does powder coating)

Sand the paint on carbon bits and spray them matt black. Hard to get “just” the paint on carbon.

Maybe the owners are just leaving it derelict.

After 2 years of “looking” for a tenant landlord they can claim it is not a viable business property, then easily get planning permission to pass change class of use to residential, then BOOM payday.

The planners will think its better converted into flats than a derelict building bringing the area down.

I had the same dilemma.

I had juin tech but wasn’t completely happy vs MTB brakes.

Scored a set of lighlty used rival hydros on eBay for £200, and broke even selling my old kit.

They are leagues ahead. Go full hydro if you can.

Just stick some high riser bars on.
http://www.gussetbikes.com/products-mtb-information.php?id=HBGUWH5W

You should technically space the ring in a bit. lots of people don’t.

This explains it
http://int.oneupcomponents.com/pages/understanding-chainline-for-optimal-1x-conversions-boost-and-non-boost

M bibs are going back, although they are really nice quality for the price.
I’m 32 waist 34 leg, I think foot loop tights are useless for me. XL for the leg length will be too baggy up top and on the legs.

£5 zip baselayer and £10 winter gloves are great.

Eyeing up those half softshell blue road tops, but reviews say they are a bit sweaty. £25 though….

Postage is free if you spend £50. They are adding new stuff everyday.

whats this for? apres wash protector making it easier to wash next time?

Made a start on the new bike for daughter #1. She’s outgrown the balance bike so now going to make a 16″ wheeled one for her.

Is that a headtube with a mount for a jousting lance?

I’m tempted to buy a Xiaomi Redmi 3S (not note). Some Chinese market phones are well built and far outstrip the spec of similar priced UK market phones.

$150 from gear best, but you might need to re-flash the phone before its useable as some sellers put strange firmware on.

http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/review/budget-smartphones/xiaomi-redmi-3s-review-fantastic-budget-phone-just-got-even-better-3644930/

Check out the battery life!

If you have deeper pockets there is the Mi5 http://www.techradar.com/reviews/phones/mobile-phones/xiaomi-mi5-1315657/review

The next big internet killer is “Internet of Things” viruses, taking over all manner of insecure devices from thermostats to printers and turning them into a huge botnet.

HP have form here.

Tens of millions of HP LaserJet printers vulnerable to remote hacking

The M950 is for V brakes so will work with an MTB cable pull disc brake, e.g. BB7 MTB

The M900 is for canti brakes and will with with a road cable pull disc brake e.g. BB7 ROAD

If you have a pair of the M950 use them as MTB vcable pull discs are more common and cheaper.

If you have one of each…. then get one of each brakes? Or one of the V brake cable pull adapter things for the M900

Bruce Gordon Rock n Road

Any bigger and you are into 29er tyres.