I was looking at the merino blend and planned to wear it either on its own or with a thin shell over the top. Will look at a dry crew

Just been out to check but can’t find it I’m afraid. From what I remember it didn’t have a part number – in fact it didn’t even come with a minimum insertion mark.

no but the distributor should have that – I did have one of those in the shed but think I sold it from memory.

I had the KS 950 and it was a direct swap (did it several times when changing bikes)

I bought the lower directly from the supplier for around £30 or £50 – no other parts needed; so unless the supernatural has different components they are talking nonsense.

yep… it’s dead easy. just take the bolt off the bottom (needs an impact wrench or some big guns to undo it and undo the red collar at the top.

The bottom should just slide off. Be careful to catch the little metal rods / bushings that drop out and take your time on reassembly.

Have you got the new lower?

To be honest given that the process of bleeding is to remove air bubbles I generally ignore the complex avid bleed procedure* now (unless I’m replacing the fluid) and just use one syringe leaving the other end of the brake closed with the grub screw. Keep the syringe upright with at most a quarter filled with fluid and pull the bubbles out with a vacuum effect; works perfectly.

* except I do remove the pads, use the bleed block and ensure the contact adjustment is in the correct place and the leaver adjustments so its 75 to 80mm from the handle bar.

I’m using a zefal nomud on my stumpjumper. works well and as it’s attached to the frame it doesn’t touch the wheel under full compression nor get in the way of my light. http://www.zefal.com/en/mudguards-protection/124-no-mud.html

It isn’t the nicest looking piece of plastic but what mudguard is?

I’ve got the cyclo torque wrench and it serves its purpose well.

Just to check, when you bled and rebuilt the brake did you set the pads spacing using the thinner side of the red bleed block?

Have you tried new pads (or swapping with the front) and a different rotor?

As another suggestion what about a hacksaw at an angle through the old hanger and into the bolt head being careful not to touch the frame? once there is enough of a slot in the edge of the bolt a screw driver at an angle in the slot to drive the bolt anti-clockwise?

Long shot but big block of wood underneath and bash a suitable size Torx bit in until enough purchase to remove?

Get yourself a demo for 24 or 48 hours… 286 bhp, a crazy amount of torque and a flappy paddle auto will be damn hard to replace…

barryboglips – Member

Ooooohhh a BMW snob. Lovely.

You should change the thread to “must be a dick heads car”.

Helpful comment :roll: And possibly nothing to do with being a snob but perhaps just enjoying driving a car that drives very well?!

Stick with the 335d and enjoy it – I doubt that there will be any real saving once you’ve taken a depreciation hit on a 2012 320d with that number of miles per year.

Whilst the 320d is a great car I can’t imagine going back to a 2 litre now that I’ve had the 330d.

Having torn a side wall this afternoon I’ve just replaced my Captain with a Ground Control Grid easy inflation on a flow rim using a compressor.

This is the first specialized grid / ust tyre I’ve used as normally just go for the 2bliss – whilst its a bit heavier the side walls are much thicker and stiffer; even without sealant there was no air leaking.

On my previous road bike I went from cannondale own brand to R650 and noticed a good difference, point to note is that mine came with the older brake compound, they got even better with latest compound when I changed pads.

I’ve not really had any problems with 2bliss tyres; the 2.0 captain sometimes needs some encouragement but providing I shape and inflate them first with a tube they usually inflate easily.

Sounds like you are a tubeless veteran just to check – are you coating the side walls as per the stans video I.e holding wheel infront of you and waggling it towards and away from you turning the wheel a little bit each time and then lying on each side for five mins?

Thanks for the info; so having looked at the RS parts numbers for the coil conversion I’m going after:

11.4309.045.000 Pike/10 Recon 140mm – U-Turn Spring Assy – Firm Blue – Maxle (~£40)
11.4310.717.000 U-Turn Travel Adjuster Knob Aluminum (Coil) Lever (~£20)
11.4310.465.000 Fork Shaft Bolt Kit (~£20)

Interested to hear how the OP gets on… My previous 3 series saloon had sunprotection glass from the factory my touring doesn’t – i read somewhere that on after market tints you get white lines around the heater lines; don’t know if its true on the pro jobs.

Its probably easier to make your Avid’s work than find an a matchmaker… FWIW you could try a different approach to bleeding (if that is the route cause) I’ve had great results with several sets of Elixir’s by bleeding with a single syringe first on the caliper and then at the lever just using the vacuum, takes several attempts.

Its probably easier to make your Avid’s work than find an a matchmaker… FWIW you could try a different approach to bleeding (if that is the route cause) I’ve had great results with several sets of Elixir’s by bleeding with a single syringe first on the caliper and then at the lever just using the vacuum, takes several attempts.

FWIW – Exposure’s after care is awesome… if Evans mess you around go straight to Exposure.

The other week I ordered some brakes from CRC on a Friday lunch time, they arrived at 10am on Saturday so no complaints from me!

Whilst I’ve had problems with Avids in the past most were caused by poor bleeds / my lack of knowledge rather than crap brakes.

I really like my Elixirs, the key is to get them set up properly.

Now all I need is a retailer to push the Elixir 9 trails out at a cheap price.

Avid pads £15 to £20; Avid 180mm disc £25 ish

At most that makes the lever, caliper and hose £20.. justified. :lol:

I was about to start a similar thread… both levers feel about the same but the performance of the rear always feels poor compared to the front.

I’m wondering if it’s partly due to the disc / pads being contaminated with oil / lube from the drivetrain?

Sorry for making a slight hi-jack but how does the model line up work? Which is the right model for a heavy bloke doing trail / all mountain?

Having experienced the benefits of hope wheels I’m interested to try their brakes for longevity and reliability.

What mikewsmith said… Strava on a mobile is frustrating, I find the garmin GPS tracking far more accurate and very rarely suffer any errors / straight lines on strava missing out part of the route.

3 hours to build?! It’s taken me hours and hours to strip and rebuild mine with new bearings etc. I’ll console myself with the mis-placed belief that old parts take longer to fit than new parts!

New gear cables and a TF fork service… Night and day difference

2.3 Purg on a flow rim and a 2.0 captain on a flow rim – all tubeless
with just yellow rim tape.

Purg inflates with just the track pump

I’ve been running a purgatory up front and a captain on the rear for last two years (standard setup on 2011 stumpjumper) works a treat.

I found that a small dollop of grease stopped that problem from re-occurring but I also recommend a rear mudguard to stop the mud from being able to get anywhere near it

If it helps… The BMW one series takes a 205 55 16 summer tyre, the listed winter tyre size is 195 55 16. Check the manual to ensure its an “approved” tyre size.

Other than looking at the numbers on paper, is there a noticeable difference in weight when pedalling?

I guess the main disadvantage is set spring rates and not being able to dial in like an air fork e.g for sag etc

Yep, so what’s the performance difference between a coil and air spring revelation?

I’m having a similar problem with my revs and a coil conversion has been suggested. Jonedwards did you have yours done and did you notice the extra weight or Amy significant difference in ride quality?

Mine worked flawlessly in all conditions… Clean it, lube it and make sure the lever clip isn’t too tight on the bars.

Also worth checking the actuator on the saddle, occasionally needs a careful clean particularly with the Welsh silt.

Forks must be worth that alone… £3200 one year ago and now he wants only £450. I suppose it could be genuine and he’s missed a digit in the asking price.

Lots of good advice – bike fit is a likely cause, even nudging the tip of the saddle down a fraction could make all the difference.

To check the seat height it would be worth getting someone to ride behind you to see if your hips are rocking from side to side, if so it is likely your saddle is too high; another sign of a saddle being too high is if your shoulders are lurching from side to side. A few mm can make all the difference.