I think you’re taking a risk holding the swingarm on with cable ties

:lol:

As soon as those lower link bearings go, that’s exactly what it feels like.

I’d strip it and have a look. Then take it to an Ali welders and get some advice. DO NOT take it to a bike shop and expect an honest answer… they’ll only tell you it’s scrap and show you their new range at £2000+

This is my Intense Tracer:

I think at one point I was going to let it go for less than £200 with the shock. £20 later:

If you decide it’s not for you I could be tempted to take a gamble.

jamesgarbett – Member
Thanks all

So presumably I can’t fire up iPlayer on my Macbook and mirror that to the TV via Apple TV?

I’ve never tried that tbh, it’s just a lot easier with my phone so I never bothered. I don’t see why not.

Through a series of dull events, I have the following;

Western Digital TV Live
Now TV
Sony/Google TV
Sony Smart BluRay
Apple TV

I’d only buy the Apple TV again.

They all have their pro’s and cons but the best by miles is the Apple TV. This is ONLY if you have a Mac or a iPad/iPhone.
The missing iPlayer and 4OD apps are a problem that we solve by sending it over airplay from my phone, it works very well, so well it’s like a touch screen remote, but a dedicated channel would be great. Renting things from iTunes looks expensive but it’s half the price to the cinema so I guess it’s fair if you think of it that way. Mind you if a film is over 6 months old it’s probably cheaper to buy it from Amazon on BluRay.
Plus points are Airplay (it’s brilliant), RedBull TV channel and it’s speed, it’s incredibly quick compared to all the others. Where it really shines is Netflix. I have not seen anything thats as nice to watch Netflix on as the Apple TV.

Like all Apple devices, if you’re already in with Apple it’ll work well for you, if you’re not, it’s expensive and next to useless. I’m hoping version 4 allows third party apps but i’m not holding my breath.

I’ll keep an eye out in Trafford for you. Should stand out a mile.

I had a carbon Trek Fuel. It rode great, climbed like a rat up a drainpipe… even if I didn’t! but I spent the whole time looking for cracks. Eventually I found three or four.

I had the same problem with aluminium, it cracked too, but I didn’t spend the whole time worrying that it would explode underneath me taking a bollock with it.

That was really good. Cheers for posting.

Also, it’s 20″, there’s not many folk who’ll be looking for a frame that big. £550-600 in my opinion.

Whinlatter blue would be just the ticket.

+1

This stuff is brilliant, except it’s £9 a can and lasts approximately 30 seconds before it’s empty.

Point it at the cassette and watch months of wet lube and shiz go all limp and fall off.

If anyone knows of a better (cheaper) version that doesn’t require the removal of the cassette and elbow grease then i’d love to know what it is.

Sweeeet :D

There’s not much wrong with it but I thought the default answer to “I need a full suss but I’m not willing to spend a mint” is the Boardman team FS.

Clicky

It’s not flash but everything is there. That sunn with SIDS says to me more racey than skids and wheelies.

Have a look at Paul’s cycles too, they have some mad cheap bikes on there.

+1 VLC. You can try to convert the file with Handbrake (google it) to something a bit more friendly too. It’s free and easy to use.

This, it’s quite good, but Rock and Roll is better.

Clicky

I stripped mine of the bearings etc and sent it to fastline coatings in Preston. £20 for a full suss and it looks great.

Some good stuff to work with thanks. So it sounds like I need to cut out a good bunch of the filler and get more angles in there.

I agree helmet cam looks terrible, I like the ideas of a rider cam mounted to the stays or forks in forward and backward directions. I might give that a try.

Cheers.

Thanks for that. I was worried that any fire road would have been dull, but considering we’d not actually gone out to make a video, I just put in the footage I had, this missed the more interesting climbing. I’ve noticed that you have to be brutal with the editing, cutting out whatever isn’t absolutely necessary, It’s something i’ll keep in mind more next time.

I think a gopro is a bit more than I want to spend when I take into consideration the additional lcd screen I think i’d need, but the Sony action cam PSA the other day looked well on budget.

I had a 2008/9 Fuel Ex 9.8, as above it was very very capable. That said, it cracked in about 4 places. Was easy to repair, but it now lives with a mate who’s 2/3rds my weight and rides it as often as a Scotsman gets a round in.

I’d recommend an alloy one. To help with your sizing, mine was 16.5″ actual, with a 60mm stem. I’m 5’10.

I’m happy to read this since it gives me confidence that my phone is ok… it doesn’t help the fact that my data is rubbish.

Do you have the full bars 3g symbol and it still doesn’t download anything?

Hora

Me too. I always buy slightly older Santa Cruz’s (currently on a 2011 Butcher).

I’m on a £500 intense tracer… it snapped, £20 at the alloy fabs and it’s back on the trails :D

Watch it fold in half round hebden tomorrow :roll:

I don’t really use trail centres too much, but I remember when you couldn’t move in the lakes for Marin full sussers, and then again a few years later for Specialized. My guess is that SC are the brand at the mo.

Tbh i’m glad of it, i’ll be happy to hoover up the £600 second hand frames in a few years time. I can snap them 3 times over and still be better off.

£2000+ for a new frame? They must be mad.

It’s this, obviously.

Didn’t mean to thread hijack OP!

Yeah, I bought it with the work already done, but it’s had a trip to argos to weld the disk mount in and take out the canti studs. It’s a great job, you wouldn’t be able to tell even if you’re looking for it. I then got it reamed to take the 27.2 post.

From what I remember when I got it, it all matches up to a 1997, I think the decals are the wrong year.

Thanks. It’s worth doing in my opinion. My other bike is an Intense Tracer and they couldn’t be more different. If i’m honest the tracer is a much better bike, infinitely more capable up and down, but having the dropper on the Kona makes it much more friendly to a few hours after work when you’re trying to beat the sunset.

I’ve had my 1997 Kona reamed to 27.2. I’ve got an X Fusion Hilo. It’s a good fit and needs liberal amounts of grease but it’s possible. I got it done by Northwest MTB in Manchester for about £20.

I had a second hand Trek Fuel with marks similar to that. I was told they were rigid paint cracking due to the carbon flexing. I never proved that to be total nonsense but some of those marks did turn into cracks.

If you’re the original owner I’d be sending a better pic to the manufacturer.

I’ve done 18 months of driving Kendal to Manchester 5 days a week. It’s something like 70 miles in each direction.

My old commute was 5 miles. I used to be frequently late, my sleep pattern was similar to a student and I’d get home and watch nonsense on TV for hours on end.

Now, i’m out of the door by 6:30 and in work before 8, knock off at 4:30 listen to the radio on the way (that’s much more pleasant than TV) and back home for a walk or a ride mid week now the light has got better. The best bit is the weekends/days off, I’ve got the Lake District on my doorstep.

I won’t lie, it’s tough at times especially the diesel outlay but the fact I’m child free, it’s 98% motorway, cruise control and Volvo seats help. I’m going to enquire about doing one day a week from home, it’s a saving of around £80 / month.

dazh – Member
Is there no way to globally set it to ask for a password every time a purchase/download is required? On my daughter’s Kindle Fire you have to put in a password before anything can be downloaded and installed.

I think there is, it’s in the app store settings at the bottom of the page. Mine is set to auto authenticate for 15 mins after a purchase and even then it still asks me.

You must have been mental to give a kid your password and expect somekind of self control. I wouldn’t even tell my kid brother where the kit kats are kept, nevermind the keys to my bank account.

I went on a ferry to French France last year, which makes me perfectly qualified to give you advice on this :lol:

If you’re unattached and young, life isn’t really going anywhere and you’re facing the dole or this… I’d pick this.

It doesn’t really change the fact that the pay is awful but then it’s probably better than signing on (if not financially then at least for your self esteem) and you’re more likely to get a job while you’re in one than not.

What I would say is, don’t worry about the sharing with a randomer, that’s exactly what day one of uni is like. Whoever they turn out to be they’re probably thinking the same thing as you.

Mine has a “Shop” and “Home” modes. The Shop one turns everything up to 11 and it’s designed to look good under the bright lights in a showroom. It’s unwatchable at home like that.

I had this exact problem last year. I picked the 32 Sony since it was the nicest looking out of the lot.

All the rest looked like scaled up computer monitors, but the sony has a small bezel, a good remote and the metal frame base looks great. Richer Sounds for less than £325ish IIRC

I’d look for a sound bar though. I regarded my TV speakers as “average” before we got one. Now I would grade them as “shi…

If they’re anything like my saints, when I asked the bike shop to bleed mine they only use the funnel. I asked about the bleed nipple but they said not to bother unless you’re bleeding from fresh and even then you need the funnel to finish them off.

Just to put the Chris vs Danny argument to bed… they’re both brilliant.

For what it’s worth, I prefer Akriggs stuff, purely because it’s done on a bike like mine, where I ride.

Mostly Lakes riding, I ran 22/32 with 11-32. Was good for setting off on steep stuff, never felt I was spinning like a mad man. Moved to 10 speed, 24/32 with 11-36, so far I like it, nice to have the extra gear at the end of the day with tired legs.

Hope bash guard no chain guide.

Get yourself rested up, tomorrow is too soon if you’ve been to hospital!

Get well soon.

I have Saint M820 having come from older XTs which were never short on power. They have quite a long lever throw compared to other brakes I’ve tried (almost all other shimanos and Hopes) but then once they bite, there’s a small part of the stroke that allows you to trim off some speed and then the braking force is insane and there’s even more after that too. It’s like riding into a brick wall.

I like the power they have, but I can see they’re very marmite.

wwaswas – Member
Technically speaking it’s on the wall.

I’m shocked.

Unlike your frame

I preferred the DHX in this to the RP in the tracer, so at least that’s getting used!

We moved house so all the spare bike stuff is living at work at the mo!

My Tracer cracked a while back so I picked this up. While this was in having the horrible red pain removed I got the Tracer welded and haven’t bothered to build it up. I think one of the lads from work is going to have it or it’s in the classifieds next week.

Hope it helps.