I got mine direct from Apple, but I would have gone with John Lewis too. One thing to look at is the Apple refurbished. Typically you’ll get exactly the same product as the main site but with fresh keyboard mouse and HDD if applicable from the person who used it for X minutes and returned it. You get the same warranty as “new”.

I would have got mine from there if they had any in stock at the time.

Clicky Link

I’ve got some Saints, I do like them but I did have the shoddy bleeding from new. The other problem they have is they’re very susceptible to rotor wear. Unless your rotors are in good nick, they’ll feel like they’re bled badly and pull to the bar. They don’t wear the rotor quicker than any other brakes I’ve noticed, but it’s something to note if you plan on saving a few quid on by keeping your old parts.

Tivo is 1080p max I expect and so is xbox, so you’re fine whichever way you connect it. I’d go for option 1 as it’ll work a bit nicer without having to involve the sound bar in the input chain. The TV will make it look great anyway.

Page 22 of your manual shows you how to connect the sound bar optically, all be it just a picture!

There’s another section later on about controlling other devices with “the universal remote” you might get lucky in there and be able to control both the sound bar and the TV off the same remote, but it’ll work for you just fine as it is.

Download for the manual

In future, if you change your sound bar, maybe look for one that has ARC, it should make everything integrate with each other with one remote doing everything… at least thats the plan!

ARC Info[/url]

Unless that feed is 4K/UHD content it doesn’t matter. Your TV will accept 1080p content and upscale it for you anyway. The only thing UHD our TV does is the native Netflix app, everything else is 1080p connected boxes like the BluRay and the Apple TV.

Your sound bar is a YSP-30D (educated guess as the D30 is a piano) which has two inputs and a common out. I can’t work out if the new telly will be able to control control the volume of the sound bar so lets just assume it doesn’t.

You have two options, with similar results:

Connect everything to the TV via it’s HDMI ports (if it has enough), they’ll all do 1080p and let the TV upscale it for you. Connect your sound bar via an optical audio cable (about £15 max) to the port marked TV in this pic Clicky Then anything on the TV will come out of the sound bar as long as it’s set to TV. You’ll have to control the volume of the bar with it’s own remote which isn’t a big problem but it’ll work cheaply. It’ll also work while the sound bar is off when you just want to use the TV speakers.

Alternatively, if you’re short of HDMI ports or it’s all nicely integrated in the wall for example and you only want one input on the tv, connect the aux boxes, tivo/xbox or whatever to the HDMI in on the sound bar and connect the TV to HDMI out and use the Sound bar to switch inputs. You’ll still have to control the volume with the sound bar remote but you’ll also have to switch the inputs with it too. I’d choose the first as this costs extra for HDMI cables and isn’t as nice to use, nor does it help if you end up connecting 4K content in future.

Finally, I have a Sony X85 series UHD TV, it has a nice feature to control sound bars with an integrated IR blaster, it’s something you should look into if you connect it via option 1 or even option 2 as you can control everything through one remote. I expect other TVs have this function but i’m not sure what you have.

Hope that helps and isn’t a load of jargon!

I’ve got the X3 and the X1. We use the X3 on site to fill the room with tunes but be able to do a speakerphone when the office phones up. The X1 is pretty good for the weight but the X3 embarrasses it. Tried the Bose and it might be good for a Mozart or something like that but if you want some WuTang you’re better off with the Sony.

It fits really quite well in our disabled shower.

:lol:

https://www.123brackets.co.uk/

They have a good selection of brackets at reasonable prices. We use them for just about every monitor configuration imaginable.

Depending on your current mount, it could be a simple as buying something similar and making a mount that fits out of the old and new. Usually it’s a two part kit, with a set of runners that attach to the TV and an arm & tray kit that attaches to the wall. the runners attach to the arm plate and then some grub screws hold it in place.

Alternatively, you could buy a new mount and use the old mounting holes/fixings with a bit of modification.

They give you everything you need to look after it properly. Make a small bit of flex before you coil it around the flip out lugs and by the time you get to the end the little clip will attach to the rest of the cable and keep the connector out of trouble. All it needs is a bit of mechanical sympathy.

Try a Dell Precision laptop charger for comparison. It’s about the same price, doesn’t have the nice magnetic thing or the cable management, weighs a ton and is the size of a house brick.

Now TV tip: When your free period is over, go through the process of quitting online, get past the screen that says “are you sure you want to miss all these great shows?”, click yes, and you’ll be offered an automatic discount of around 33-50%.

I’ve done this three times now, works with movies and entertainment packs.

Have a look at your rotor width/wear. My saints were a disappointment until I changed my old knackered rotors. You’d be surprised how that small difference will make the brake pull to the bar.

The E means Entwicklung. Or Development in English.

installed Malwarebytes, Spybot S&D, CCleaner and Avast

I have avast AND windows defender on at the same time with my works I7 12gb ram PC at work and it killed it. Take one of those off and you’ll likely fix the problem.

This

Mr Pickles was the major casualty of David Cameron’s post-election reshuffle, leaving his post as Communities Secretary – a job he held throughout the coalition government.

And

Mr Pickles, a former chairman of the Conservative Party, has been MP for Brentwood and Ongar since 1992.

Confirmed by:

“When I left the Cabinet the prime minister asked if I would accept a knighthood and I indicated that I would but it then has to go through a committee. I’m very pleased.”

Clicky

But then this guy was a Knight too, so it’s not exactly a flawless process.

I have a late 2008 2.0l Diesel R-Design for sale if you’re interested? Full service history, really does only need oil and filters in terms of maintenance.

Clicky

Drop me an email

You must think we’re idiots, look what that clamp has done to the top tube.

It’s probably been covered already, round Cannock that might be the case, but up here in Cumbria my hardtail was (with the exception of tarmac) slower and had poorer traction, up, along and down, than my 6″ AM full susser. Same rider, same trails, different bike.

I won’t be buying another hardtail.

Our lass is a Graphic Designer. Out of work for her own stuff, she uses her old 2007 MacBook Pro which copes just fine. Quick look on goolgle/ebay and they can be had for less than your budget.

Clicky

Compared to my 2012 MBP there’s almost no usability difference and the screen on hers is higher res and doesn’t have the glossy screen. Compared to my same age £800+ Dell laptop it’s not even a competition, her mac runs rings round it.

If you buy a cheap PC… you’ll buy twice.

I have Saint M820s on my Tracer, they’re properly properly powerful when you need it but nicely modulated too. I like them, they’re probably too good, but if you turn your brain off and grab a handful they’ll stop you, quite literally, Dead.

If I was buying again i’d probably get XTs given the price Merlin have them.

Russian GP BBC 1 in two minutes. Tell them it’s Pixars Cars 3.

Hebden/Tod are no distance away by train, where anything on the map that is a wiggly line is pretty much fair game.*

Oh, and spend a chunk of your first loan payment on bike insurance and a bunch of massive locks, they’ll steal the fillings out of your teeth round there.

*(This isn’t strictly true, but you get the idea)

Given that you want it portable, it’s on budget, it’s DLP, the addition of a built in speaker and all the inputs I think you could do a lot worse.

The estimated lamp life looks good and there’s some docs to help you set it up. The first 5 amazon reviews I read said it was great, so I reckon you have a winner.

I put in your screen width and here’s what it came up with.

Here’s a link to the calculator so you can work out all the sizes.

Calculator Clicky

Sorted.

If by range you mean the “throw”, this can be different depending on the lens you use and any zoom offsets.

First thing you should do is decide how big the screen is, assuming it’s to be used in a single fixed location. Once you know that you can spec the projector.

What. The. ****.

+1 8O

Buy an iPod for each album and then insert them into the dock depending on what you want to listen to.

Or get spotify.

If all your music is in iTunes, you can share your library with home sharing. Then buy an Airport express (with a 3.5mm stereo out on it) for £70 and use airplay to send it from your phone or computer to the airport.

There’s some things H&S need to be on top of and this is one of them. Shame it’s too late for this fella. RIP.

Ticked for the links, Cheers.

It’s about time I asked about working from home, I reckon this might sway it.

Hahahah! :lol:

Not and actual cloud.

I saw somewhere they referred to 4chan as an individual “hacker”. Idiots.

I had some problems out of my Saints when I got them. I was using my old shimano rotors that I thought were fine, but were actually lipped by 0.5mm either side. New rotors and it’s like hitting a wall of treacle.

In ref to the blue-ing / bronzing you describe. I did that to a 160mm rotor with resin pads in the alps. It was ruined and never braked the same again. Looked good though. :)

postierich – Member
Wozza Kendal based here to give us a shout if you want some company on the trails!

Dropped you a message.

I live in Kendal, I reckon I see more roadies than I do MTBs up here but then it’s a big place to hide them all.

That said, when I’m driving to Manchester on a Friday and I see all the MTBs on the cars going north, I get close to pulling a sickle and turning around.

I’d be taking the Mac mini route. You get the pages numbers and keynote included, where as the Dell you don’t. He’ll get a cheap version of office because he’s a teacher but in my experience any PC under £700 will be garbage where as the mac will go on and on. My works PC has something like 8 cores and 12gb of ram and it’s still a bag of spanners.

There’s very little day to day usability difference between my 2013 macbook and the lasses 2007 version. My 2008 Dell XPS laptop is almost unusable by comparison.

Get the mac, it’s cheaper in the long run and a pleasure to use.

Up in the Cumbria and conti protection tyres are my choice. The one time I decided to cheap out and buy a standard folder, it spilled it’s guts first ride out.

YGM

Can’t fault that, looks proper. Top wife-ing.

Apple TV is on offer at the mo. Buy it (from apple) for £79 and you’ll get a £25 iTunes voucher.

It probably means it’s due an upgrade soon.

I don’t mean to thread hijack, but I didn’t think it warranted starting another.

vintagewino – Member
Abu Dhabi is like vegas compared to Saudi.

I’m considering Dubai at the moment for 2 years to get a house deposit together. The salary is double the UK for essentially the same job and a mate that lives there has nothing but good things to say… all be it the mtb is non-existent.

What’s the catch?

Merlin Link £12 in stock.

I think you need option SM20H. They’re right that you’ll have to go +20mm i’ve got one in my tool box.

Edit: you might want to give hope a ring to double check that’s the right one. I know it was for my 160mm XTRs to go 180 and it was correct for my 180mm M4s to go 200mm.