I’ve had the same one in red for about a year now. Built up OK and fairly sturdy with plenty of space to store stuff, but the peg board although worth having, is pretty bad as its very thin so won’t hold that many tools up securely. The pegs are not that great either. I just got some MDF the same size and screwed in some hooks, screws and other bits (plywood works too). After that worked a treat. For me, definitely worth a punt at 50 snoots.

Yeah the barb needs to be fully in the hose, sometimes they are a pain to get the damn thing in though. The olive will naturally crush around the hose at the right place when you tighten the shroud up – But the barb needs to be in there fully (never fitted them with a bit showing so only know they should be in there). I reckon you needs a bigger hammer mate! 😀

I got them with my adaptors too, just chucked them on and forgot about them. Suppose they think they’re giving you more adjust-ability but if you can do without and hacksaw the end of the screw off you’ll be reet!!!

I have the 2010 19C and I’m a pie eater 🙂 Definitely didn’t ‘need’ it, but damnnnn I’m glad I got it and for a short period I was well over 16st too – Worked well for me over the last couple of years pal…it’s a KEEPER!!! 😀

Grangers or NikWax – Grangers do a 2in1 wash and re-proofer, where as NikWax is separates. Think NikWax also do a different one that may help give waterproofing to Wind Stopper stuff (might have got that wrong though, could be to the Polar Tech kit). But with good kit I’d only use something from either of those 🙂

When you got the wheels did you get the Mavic magnet? I take it you didn’t. Mavic have made a spare for the job mate, so if you haven’t got it then I’d go to a LBS who have a Mavic account and get that. With wheels like that I’d not try to bodge it, I’ve tried that before too and it’s been a lot more costly than a £5-10 spare 🙂 if you got your wheels from a shop, then this spare should have come with them, my 2013 ST’s did (along with the adaptors) so they may have forgotten to give them to you – Hope it helps buddy

If I could work out how to out pics on here mate, I would 🙂 the old copy-paste does not work so I’m stumped. Tried the old add image button but wants a website or something. If I work it out it’ll be on 🙂

Just finished my new toy in time for Christmas (earlier than planned) 🙂 …Titus Rockstar, XT/XTR components and Crossmax ST 29’er wheels. Looking forward to burning off that turkey…& ovcourse the massive excess of ale!

Don’t think there’s any real top-tips mate, but yeah syringe with a bit of 5/6 or 7mm pipe (luck of the draw if you have the right one), unlock the bleed valve, push through and hopefully watch the air come out the top while you’re using another syringe to remove excess fluid from the reservoir. As you’re doing it tap around the calliper with a screwdriver handle or similar, also tapping the hose all the way up (works for me). When you’re happy there’s (all being well) no more air, lock it off down at the calliper, fill the reservoir, roll the diaphragm and refit the top bit. Just make sure you’ve pushed the pistons back and fitted the yellow bleed spacer if you have one.

Not sure how much oil they hold, but not that much…prob about 30-40ml in all, but I’d always have about 50ml in the syringe and just replace the unused in the bottle. But pushing the pistons back and using the bleed spacer will make sure you get the correct amount of oil in there.

Hope it helps and soz if I’ve gone off on one with useless rubbish! 😀

Just chucking my ten-penneth worth in. The NW Gore-Tex ones are the business, just check the reviews everywhere and you’ll see. Had mine a while now and absolutely no issues, only positive things to say, so highly recommended.

Yeah PF30’s are complete trash…the WM adapters have a rep for not being deep enough in the BB shell too, then they rock and/or damage the frame (only been told that, not from experience mate). But, them there adapters are still better than PF30’s 🙂

Hmmm, actually I might be thinking of different adaptors…but any of them are still better 🙂

I feel like I’ve been done by Oliver as well…got the thing for a Dorris I know as a Crimbo prezzy and paid 13 snoots for it!!!! Propper seen off!!!!!!

Fair do’s…the Mutzig made me do it! 😀

This thing looks God damn sexual…But seems to come with the issues associated with a hot blonde! 😀 In the process of building a Titus Rockstar right now and might very well be in the market for this too and try out the Ti HT too…hmmmmm. Fair do’s though Brant, you are straight in there to try sorting the Reverb issue, hope that works out for Swayndo.

Yes mate, I’m certain they are s/steel…I was not concerned about the minor weight issue…need to shave it off my ass first 🙂 ..well, not literally shave it, but the extra was negligible to me. While I was looking I gave Hope a call, they confirmed it was s/steel…plus it would be silly for them to make it from steel due to the issues that come with it, in my opinion that is 🙂 Give Hope a bell tomorrow, they are pretty awesome with customer service type things.

Mate, that looks MINT!!! 🙂 Just got those wheels for my new project too 😀 Starting the build tomorrow…

Passportes Du Soleil buddy, get over for that it’s a great event. The lifts fully open in the Portes Du Soleil area for that, so if you do it you get the event covering the area, then a buckshee lift pass for use in the following time you are there for; should cost about €45/50 to get the admission (including two lift passes). After that it’s all up to you for riding the area, which is awesome!!! 🙂 As for places to stay, you can drive or pay for transfers from Geneva. I’ve stayed Self Catering with Rude Chalets (no dancing birds included!!!), also stayed at the Sherpa too (http://www.jollygood.com/Morzine/W_Sherpa.html ) …have a sniff around that and give them an email or call, but do it quick if you’re wanting to stop there as they book up rapido. The place is basic but good enough to say you’ll be half cut most of the time…and the chalet girls are (were pretty hot too), plus the Shera was pretty cheap compared to the others – Hope it helps.

…by the way, hope that helps…if not I’m blaming the vino rouge for my rambling! 🙂

Never seen one crack, but the Alloy freehub bodies are a pain in the arse when used with a cassette that has a steel carrier. The steel carrier cuts into the splines of the freehub body making it ni-on impossible to get the bas*ard off, without hitting it a few times!!! The alternatives are, get a new alloy freehub body at full whack price wise which will have the same issue unless you change the cassette as well; Or, get a stainless steel one. The + for the stainless steel is that the issue with the carrier cutting into the freehub body is gone. The – is it weighs twice as much as the alloy one (including the pawls and bearings). It is thought that if you use a better quality cassette i.e. XT/XTR standard, then they have a softer carrier that does not cut into the freehub body…as much. Personally I think the only way to stop this issue is to get a stainless steel one. The alloy one is approx 80grams inc pawls and bearings, and 160’ish grams for the s/steel one.

Are you taking out the right bit, from the right place buddy??? If you know what you’re doing then no offence intended mate. Have a sniff around on Google Images for a reference pic, but it should be 20mm (as far as I know). If you bought them second hand then maybe someone has placed a 10mm spacer in there and tuned it for their riding.

Mate, I don’t care what you say…you’ve got your peepers on an IBIS Mojo HD (remember that beauty on the wall at Llandegla??? 😀 & the comment of, ‘If I get in that Trans Provence event…I’m having that!’)

Just saying, just saying….

The brakes are brand-spanking still and unfortunately not looking to trade bits just yet 🙂 Thanks all, decision made and sticking with I-Spec. Was a little concerned as I have used the Hope Match Maker clamps previously and found them are right ball ache to set up and still don’t think I have them right….But better the I-Spec than realise after that I can’t get the right shifter position like Raisinat mentioned.