Got one on my Five too, again fits well, look good and doesn’t come off. Has saved the frame from a few dinks too so as far as I was concerned – All good. Price wise it was steep but that was OK with me…bought it after a night on the ale, arrived three days later along with other crap I’d bought that night 😀

Had the same gypsies from Orange about 2×10 and risked it…38-26 with a MRP 2x and works fine, albeit was damn fiddly to sort out.

Not sure if you’ve found one, but there was one I was speaking with kicking about at Afan the other day; WDC Cuts (think his name is Wayne). A regular on Roots and Rain and from what I’ve seen pretty good pics too. WDC Cuts has its own page on Facebook if you use it or w.carter@btinternet.com if not.

Hope it helps

The PinHead stuff is pretty good, just a bit pricey…Just don’t lose the specific ‘key’ you gt with it or you’re knackered! 😀 I did the Torx thing, coupled with a seat collar for the Reverb to stop the opportunist, seems to work so far but the bike is hardly out of my sight.

Think you’ll have the answer from above…apart from the pic 😀 But I’d only lift the seals to replace them or if you’re damn careful, to go OCD on the cleaning 🙂 Either way the lowers would ‘normally’ have to be off first. If you want the seals off and the lowers are removed first, then a Pedros DH tyre lever can work, but I have more success with a 17mm ring spanner – Like I said though, you are likely to damage them doing this. The circular spring thing will roll up and onto the stanchion if done carefully, just make sure you put it back when done.

Personally I would not remove the wiper seal unless replacing, as you can remove the foam ring under it quite easily with a small screwdriver or toothpick (or something similar). Lube that up like a porn star and pop it back in after wiping around the wiper seal in situ – Then back together and vwalla 🙂

Don’t be too afraid of doing a lower leg service yourself either mate – YouTube is your friend, hope it helps.

I got warned off for trying to ‘avoid swearing’ as well, hadn’t been on here long…fu€k ’em 😀

All good advice on man-caves 😀 …Just make sure that if any scroat gets in there that they’ll need an angle grinder and a six man team to get out with any kit 🙂

Normally problems shifting down are to do with mech hangar, or at least I’d look there first if you’ve changed cables.

Yeah the cassette issue is the freehub body being a softer alloy than the metal in the cassette carrier, damn thing cuts into the freehub body and chews the hell out of it. As for the freehub body being stuck on, soft jaws and a vice might work, but it ‘should’ just pull off as you turn and pull it. Unless the rubber seal is stuck down big time…give it some more beans with your hand!! You could try gentle taps with the hammer around the freehub body, then pull again

I did the same thing, redundancy, retrain, Cytech quals etc. Haven’t regretted it one bit and all of what PeterPoddy said is bang on. For me the wheel building beat me like a ginger step-child…but still very much worth it. If you’re doing it with ATG then I’d do it at Aylesbury, personally I thought the teaching there was better than Manchester (when it was there), but that was just for me and the way I took the info in. Either place you go will still attain the same qualification and you’ll be taught by extremely knowledgeable guys.

There’s another guy you can go to for Cytech Quals as well so have a shop around; alternatively you could look at Cycle Systems[/url] too. Not sure if everyone here would agree but it seems to me that Cytech is not as well regarded in the cycle industry as people think, just ‘some’ employers require it for various reasons – Either way, good luck mate and you won’t regret it at all.

I’m with rkearsey, quite a tacky feel to the Ruffian which for me makes them great and makes me think I am not going to lose my hold on them…If that’s even an issue 🙂 Anyhow, Ruffian’s are the way ahead!

Arrrr crap…looks like I’ll just wait for it to happen then 🙂

Arrrr crap…looks like I’ll just wait for it to happen then 🙂

You ever thought of trying these fella…pricey, but good. I got a pair – bit of a luxury buy as I would never normally spend this on headphones…what can I say…5 Kronenburg and a stint online and my Mrs left me then 3 days later a parcel containing these arrived AfterShokz jackpot if you ask me!!

They sit on the outside of the ear and use your cheekbones to vibrate the sound in…all I know is they work and you keep your senses and can hear everything as well as your music, have a read of the pitch the site.

Yeah name and shame.

It was a drama, but in for Morzine on Sunday (want another shot at the biblical weather from last year :))

…see, ‘front fork’ is an OK term to use 🙂 even if it is from the 90’s

Cheers guys, much appreciated – The ‘fork’ feels like new! 🙂

Anyone? 🙂

Not sure about pricing but the Bryton rider series seem to be pretty good as an alternative – Bryton Homepage

Very nice indeed in green…Looks like that’s my new project then! 😀

Yeah used Moonglu a couple of times too, awesome service from Neil and the guys and now always recommend them without hesitation.

Started using the Conti Revo Seal, seems good so far.

Give Hope a bell mate, they’ll normally help whenever they can. If the old one’s knackered then they’ll probably replace FOC – Not guaranteed though, but would bell them on Monday if I were you: Hope Contact Details

Hope it helps

+1 for the Afan Lodge

If it helps I know a few people with knee problems that are using Speedplay pedals, not sure if Speedplay have less or more float though but worth a look – They can’t say enough good things about them and how they’re better when you have a knee problem.

Titus Rockstar 29’er – Bought as a Crimbo prezzy for me 😀

Yep, had a Saturday morning posties knock that resembled the commencing of a police raid, but turned out to be an olive and barb ordered from CRC that arrived in one of them big boxes too!!! …wouldn’t mind, but I was about to send the pig skin bus down tuna town!!! …& hell yes I’m whinging 😀

😀

Niiice…just finished building my alloy Rockstar too.

That kit (link) looks pretty damn good, normally I’d steer clear of universal kits but I reckon I’ll be getting that one myself – Cheers Epic.

Euro – I’ve used ‘other’ universal kits before and would not buy one again; HOWEVER the link in here that Epic put on looks damn good to me, so if you’re looking for a one kit does all alternative, I’d go for this one. I know it’s not a ‘user recommendation’, but the site reviews look good and swung it for me.

+1 more for the KMC for the same as above

Yeah he’s not sure which one to go for just yet, but if anyone had any info on how good or bad they were as a frame, or if their build went wrong then it’d be good to know and avoid the same fate. I’m steering him toward the bigger fork and a trip to the Alps 😀

Cheers pal.

+1 for the White Lightning Wet Ride

I’m on the Thule side, got a 2 bike one and it’s the best thing I bought to be honest. Never had a problem with it and it has done some serious miles too, regularly travelling between South Wales and Europe (as far across as Belgium and as far down as Morzine). They look like they shouldn’t work…In all honesty I was hoping it wouldn’t work too so I could get a new bike…again!!! 🙂 But the damn thing is proving me wrong every time! It operates with a kind of clamp tightening around the tow-ball, then after making sure it’s even tighter with the handle, lock it to the tow-ball, bikes on and locked to the carrier and you’re done – Just get a good quality one like legend said.

Looking for one too, just for the bikes though…will be interested to see the answers on this 🙂

Fair do’s…Looks mint!!

Mountain Morph for me too…little bleeder turns into a mini-track pump and pumps up just as rapido too 😀 No contest fella, Mountain Morph yersen up.

As long as you put it together properly then yeah. I’ve got a 100mm bench vice bolted to mine, hammered everything from inserts into hydraulic hoses to stuff that required a little more ‘beans’, stood up well to that. Not sure how much more you’d need to whack from a bike on a vice (hitting it hard that is), but should be OK. With the price the metal isn’t that thick, but taking time on the assembly and using the extra wood for the peg board and maybe a few extra screws for the thicker wood will be worth it mate. If you so attach the vice then bear in mind where you have it in case you need to cut a steerer tube (where to angle the rest of the fork can be a pain).

Not too sure about mine, doubt mine’s bearing run but the drawer works OK whatever it is. Think I got stung for £70 when I got one but is exactly the same as the link (but red). As long as you have the measurements, the wood can be replaced and cut to size in B&Q, costing about £5-10. As you said, I’d stick with the cheaper one as they all seem to be the same.